Sarang

Are you tuned for your TBE?

Can you post a data log?

Is your DP catted or catless?

looking at a '11 tacoma trd off road access cab v6 w/ a 6 speed in magnetic grey metallic to supplement the GT. Quick, somebody talk me out of it.

The new TRD Off Road Tacoma will come in Army Green...

Also, think of the gas mileage! 20mpg if you're conservative, but it's still fairly gutless.

clearly you should buy a 2020.

Hey all, I just got a 2010 legacy gt for a steal of a deal and it is amazing. Love the car more the more I drive it.

 

Anyways, I purchased a packet of Carfax reports and ended up just using one, so if anyone wants me to check a Carfax report or two I'm happy to do it. Ideally for some money via paypal or venmo, but we can work something out. Feel free to PM me, should have access to the reports for about 11 more months.

If you don't mind me asking: Around how much did you pay for it? How many miles?

I love that rear bumper protector... such a pleasing pattern.

I would stain that light colored cloth so fast though. Slobs like me have to get black interior...

I ran 225/50R18 on the stock Gt wheels, so I don't think you have to worry about the strut.

I also put 25mm spacers on with that setup and did not have issues, but you would have another ~20mm more poke so I would think you'd have an issue.

If you just want ride height, why not just get a taller tire? my 225/50R18 setup looked good.

There's also an Invidia and Avo catted j pipe for our cars. Check ebay.

If I could do it over, I'd go with Invidia instead of Nameless.

OK so I received the 20PSI cap last night and intstalled it and today I went out and tried to overheat the car. Google says it's 107 but feels like 114... whatever that means.

On the freeway it took noticeably longer for the coolant temp to get above 212. I spent some time at 85 mph, which was where it usually would creep up and turn off the AC. Today it hovered at 215 and 216 and only briefly got up to 219. AC stayed on the whole time.

I went home via a long uphill in moderate boost (~5-10 psi) for 0-75 mph and then holding until the other side of the hill. It got up to 219 but held there until the very top where it hit 221, but left the AC on.

I think the cap helped. I'm not looking for performance when it's this hot out, I just want the AC on for my entire drive. This is now possible. Obviously I can't flog on it, but passing power is back, and I don't have to lower my cruise speed to keep the temps down. I also drove the higher load section of my commute and it left the AC on so I think this was seven bucks well spent.

When it's only 100 out it drops right back around 212. These issues only seem to show up on the very hot days, like above 110. I've burped the system several times on my own, and the car has had the engine out at a reputable shop this year, so I know they had to fill it back up with coolant.

I did clean the condenser early this year, and the radiator is about a year old. I do also now have an oil cooler. I think that the main obstruction would be my FMIC. I cut out that center support from the lower portion back when I installed the intercooler.

Chatting with a few of the old guys at work today, one of them suggested a higher pressure radiator cap. He thought that 222 was about where my coolant was boiling, so maybe that's why it would creep up to that and then not want to go back down. I found a Stant 20psi cap for seven bucks online so I took the plunge. It probably won't hurt and $7 is trivial.

That arrives Monday, so I'll update if it makes a difference.

Hey guys I want to update this since We had our hottest couple of days of the year last week. I was talking to my girlfriend about adding in the sprayer teed into the windshield washer line and she had the brilliantly simple idea to test the concept with a simple spray bottle before going to the trouble.

So after driving home work on a 114 F day, I parked in the shade and let the car idle. The coolant was 219 F and didn't move for five minutes.

Next I reset the AP gauges (so that it would show if the coolant temp went down while I was at the front of the car). I went to the front of the car and sprayed tap water in the upper grille trying to coat the radiator. I sprayed for ~30 seconds. No change in coolant temp.

Next I sprayed for close to five minutes, emptying the 25oz bottle. I could see through the grille that I was coating the condenser. Still no change in coolant temp.

Based on this, I don't think that using the windshield sprayer would do anything noticeable.

I also took the car through a drive thru car wash after work the other day on a whim and watched my coolant temps. They started at 219 and did not drop below 217 until the fans at the very end, then it dropped quickly to 208.

I have also experimented with adjusting the idle RPM using the AP. I had previously had the AC on idle set at +300, and the coolant temps liked to sit at 222 F, which causes the ecu to shut off the AC. I changed it to -300, and the temps stabilize at 217, which allows the AC to stay on, although not as cold as with the higher idle.

I replaced stock 2010 LGT springs and struts with KYB struts and 2013 3.6R springs. They're a little stiffer and still OEM height. It now feels like a sport sedan should from the factory.

I would HIGHLY recommend upgrading your rear sway bar while you're in there. A used or new oem rear bar from a WRX can be had for cheap and it makes a huge improvement on the freeway and when cornering.

But they don't for some reason. I've been thinking about installing one, but the thought that a piece of road junk may hit it and cause it to open or break it off causing rapid oil loss stops me from doing it. I get it, it is very unlikely especially with the under cover shielding it, but the tried and true threaded steel plug gives me more confidence over a piece of soft brass sticking out an extra inch from my oil pan.

That's a very valid concern, more for some cars than others. I haven't installed one on my girlfriend's Versa because the drain plug is already almost the lowest point on the car, but mine is protected by my Primitive Racing skid plate. Also, looking at the bottom of the GT, it seems like a rock would bash the turbo first before it made it back to the drain valve.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCCUJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the one that I have installed. They also make them with a nipple end so that you can use a small hose to drain the oil more precisely. I believe that would be the F-108S or F-108N.

Would you consider something like the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve? I have one and it makes oil changes much faster, easier, and less messy.

If you have the FB engine with the oil filter on the top, it makes them almost embarrassingly easy.

I have 1" Subtle Solutions spacers on all four corners with '13 springs and KYB struts. It lifts about 1".

If you think about it, the spring rate and the preload are all the same. You're just adding a spacer between the top of the spring/strut assembly and where it bolts to the chassis, all the weights and whatnot stay the same.

It would be different if you were installing raise springs, or putting a spacer inside the assembly, changing the preload. For strut top spacers it really is that simple.

FWIW, I second the primitive racing plate. You can also get the plastic under cover from the 2.5i models and it helps to seal everything up. (that's what I have)

The confrontational part of me wants you to take it back to the dealer and tell them that they're the ones who took it off so they owe you a new heat shield and plastic under tray. The charge for the exhaust manifold gaskets is your proof.

Do you have a 2.5i, 3.6R, or GT?

The rear sway bar is 100% worth it and can be had for cheap. Look for any rear bar from a WRX or STI of the same year and it'll fit. Check with us if you're not sure.

Where in AZ are you?

What do you think of the crosstrek?

We are considering a crosstrek or outback as our next car. The outback would be easier to sleep in. Whichever we get will get a lift and meatier tires.