Sarang

This looks like it:

https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-SUB-098

if your wittle feelings get hurt

Maybe while you are at it, you can teach your son how to not make assumptions...

That's not helpful man.

Moaning about how bad the dealership is to a forum of car enthusiasts is confusing to me. You know we're going to suggest that you do stuff yourself. I get it that you don't think that you should have to, but there's a reason why I do my own maintenance.

the car was a lease return and never been serviced outside of whitebear subaru

This is the important bit. Don't go to dealerships for service work, especially for diagnostics. Their MO is to just go down a checklist and replace bits until you stop coming back.

The contact is occurring right after the 90° in the sway bar area. Verified it is not the sway bar.

 

Assumed a defective midpipe from Invidia possibly... But after reaching out to them got back: “The end user will*need to loosen the bolts and adjust pipes. Then it will clear. We have seen this numerous times and adjustment has always fixed it.”

 

Not much room for adjustment. 4 bolts on the turbo manifold and one on the intermediate pipe bracket.

 

Car does not have the mid armor plate. Going to see if the guys at Nameless Performance could possibly install it correctly, as they are more qualified then me.

 

I'll keep you guys posted. I really want to make this exhaust happen.

 

Opted for a protune post pipe install but tuner is having difficulty creating a map. Might have to go with a Cobb AP/Dyno tune that will set me back another $1k+

 

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Weird. My Nameless has like an inch of clearance there. You could even just hammer a dent in it if you wanted to, I'm sure it wouldn't affect flow much.

I feel you on the protune. My first tuner never really got the low rpm boost spike under control. I ended up with a map that had a spike, then dip, then steady 18PSI. It was weird. Porting my waste gate and getting etuned eliminated that issue.

If you're looking to save a buck, an etune is a decent option. You have to put in the time to do the runs yourself and send them logs, so it's not a one and done like a dyno tune should be.

The main argument to make is that they should not value yours based on the value of the 2.5i and 3.6R Legacies, in the same way that an STI is not valued like a base impreza. Your car does have the STI engine and a special six speed transmission. Therefore, they cannot in good faith use ANY value information for 2.5i or 3.6R in determining the value of yours. Those are different cars, not just different trim levels, just like a '10 STI vs a '10 impreza auto.

My limited experience with insurance companies has been that just by sticking to your guns you tend to get a lot.

That sucks man.

I got the ol' bait and switch with a turbo Baja that I went out to buy a few years ago from a Mazda dealership, but then I ended up finding my LGT. I hope you'll end up with something super cool to make up for this frustration.

The smaller of those tires is 2" taller than factory 2.5i 215/50-17 tires, I would imagine that tire is going to be hitting the inner fender liners on bumps (especially the 225/65-17). I would go with 225/55-17 which is a little more than 1.25" taller than stock and should fit without clearance issue.

To be clear, while the diameter is 1.25" more than factory, that only brings it 0.75" closer tot he strut and the fender liner. You can verify that it'll clear the strut by sticking your thumb between your existing tire and the strut, if it fits and your thumb is at least 0.75" wide, you're good.

I highly recommend willtheyfit.com It's a good resource.

FWIW I ran my 225/50r18 tire on stock wheels with stock suspension for the life of the tires (~40k miles?) for part of it I had added 1" wheel spacers on all four wheels. I drove off road plenty and never once had them contact the fender liner.

The best way is to remove the wheel and look at the pads. Depending on what type of wheel you have, you might be able to see with the wheel still on.

If you are comfortable doing that, I would highly recommend that you consider changing the pads yourself. It's just a couple more bolts are you can save yourself a couple hundred bucks.

FWIW I removed a bunch of my bumper at that lower opening, and I haven't had rigidity issues. Mine doesn't even have that center piece anymore.

EDIT: Come to think of it, the lower grille I added probably aids is rigidity.

I ran 225/50r18 for a spell on stock GT wheels (18x7.5)

I did read somewhere that 235/50r18 on stock wheels will contact the suspension strut. I think the strut will be an issue before the wheel wells are.

Now I have 245/45r18 on 18x8 wheels. I do wonder sometimes if 245/50 would fit but I haven't tried it.

What do you guys think about this working for our turbos?

https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/turbo/subaru-turbo-blanket-wrx-2015-2019

Getting ready to pull the trigger on a shift plate. I have narrowed it down to Boomba or Cobb. I like the Boomba because of the extra weight, and the Cobb because, well...it's Cobb, and it is 5% shorter (not sure how much difference that will make). Cobb is about $95 and the Boomba is $85.50 with the memorial day discount.

Boomba FTW. 5% is a rounding error, so why pay extra for the Cobb sticker?

So what is the sentiment on LWCP for the GT guys & gals? I don't have a light weight flywheel.

I don't think there is an option. Correct me if I'm wrong....