Sarang

Anyone ever trade in a car with mods? Trying to figure out what to do with mine. Don't really want to part it out. Would be nice to sell it private party with all mods and extra parts. I don't know if I really want to deal with the hassle of selling it though. Trading in is easy. Just not sure what a dealer would think of a modified car.

 

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I was offered $500 by a couple of places for mine. It took a while to sell private, but once I found someone we were both happy.

The difference in stage 2 is more reliability than anything. The high-flow cat helps keep exhaust temps down. I almost swear my stage 1 ots tune was better. On the highway it was for sure, I could pull pretty hard in 6th. Now I have to downshift to 4th usually.

 

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And the cool throaty sound too!

I'd be interesting in the stock charge pipe, i want to get an aluminum version made but hate to have the car down all that time to get it done. i would be very willing to share my results, hoping i can make schematics for it so it can be recreated by any good fab shop.

Yeah I'll pull it out of the closet and figure out how to ship it. All I'll ask for is shipping coast since it's going to a good home.

I wouldn't think that a heater core would cause it to overheat.

Stock Subaru thermostats are known to be very reliable.

The coolant is designed to get over 212 degrees inside the engine and not boil due to the pressure in the system. If you were leaking coolant, then it was not maintaining pressure and your coolant may have boiled in the engine. That would cause you to overheat very fast.

Last year my car overheated because of a very tiny pinhole leak in one of the small coolant hoses. Replaced the hose, filled it back up, and no more problems.

Hey guys I have some stock LGT parts that I don't want or need anymore. Does anybody have an interest in these? I will likely throw them out or recycle for beer money if no one does.

Stock TMIC, has ~145k miles on it and it shows.

Stock cat back exhaust, don't want to ship this.

Stock charge pipe, probably a pain to ship

Stock BOV

Stock boost controller

I just accepted an offer on mine for $5500. I have 204k miles and a bunch of mods including turbo back exhaust and FMIC.

I listed mine for $8500 for a couple of weeks and didn't get a single bite. Lowered it to $6000 asking and here I am.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/scottsdale-2010-legacy-gt-limited/7170289219.html

Well I just verbally accepted an offer on the LGT. We do the exchange tomorrow after work, so of course I'm driving her to work. I'm a little surprised at the emotions it brings up. She's been a very good car through a lot of very different situations.

I bought a couple of dollar store sunshades, the type with the foil backed bubble wrap, and cut them up to wrap my entire stock air box and snorkel last year at about this time. I wasn't able to see any different in IAT.

So I say go for it if you want to , but don't spend much on materials because it'll probably have negligible results. Maybe you could use some weather stripping foam tape.

But there's nothing out there I really want. There's plenty cool cars I'd drive but when it comes down to cold cash, price, and longevity, I'm not considering a gas car.

That's where I've been for a while. The Crosstrek is a great DD and very capable for my hobbies, but I don't have my eye on any enthusiast/driver's cars at the moment. That's weird to me as a car guy.

Man, I'm seeing everyone jump ship. Can't really blame em on a 10 year old car. Any of you guys looking to keep or get a final manual/modifiable car before they all become relics?

 

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Honestly my priorities just changed and the Legacy was starting to show her age. In 2019 I spent more dollars, not to mention time, repairing her than the new crosstrek will cost me in all of 2020. The Crosstrek is completely different with the Eyesight, CVT, and hardly any power. I'm actually a huge fan of the CVT and Eyesight, though I know some people hate them with a fiery burning passion as hot as the sun. I think that it's different enough from the LGT that it doesn't suffer from comparison, so the differences aren't as in your face and don't seem like deficiencies. Sort of like how you wouldn't comment on the C8s inability to rock crawl.

I'm probably not at a place in life where I'd buy another turbo Legacy, but I might get the next generation of BRZ in '22 if it comes with Eyesight.

Thanks for all the input. Good stuff. I had a hard time trying to price it. A couple of dealers offered me $1000 and $750 trade in, which I knew was wrong, but then a 2.5i with similar miles and dings/scratches is borderline worthless.

I also had a hard time trying to write the description. I don't want to scare people away, but it is a turbo Subaru with 200k miles on pretty much everything but the clutch. Significant repairs such as a blown engine are a legitimate risk.

Clearly I don't have a future as a used car salesman...

The Legacy is up for sale. Asking $6k, but so far only scammers have contacted me.

What do you think - is that price too high? What would you price it at?

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/scottsdale-2010-legacy-gt-limited/7170289219.html

I don't think this is your turbo going. You're having AFR issues, which might be leading to issues spooling up. I would think that if your turbo was going, you'd have OK AFR but not spool up.

I would check for a boost leak. Look for the little boost reference hose on the back of the intake manifold that I suggested before. Make sure the vacuum/boost lines don't have pinhole leaks. You can literally just blow into them and feel if they're leaking.

That sounds normal. When coasting with your foot off the gas and the in gear, it should turn off the injectors. This results in a small amount of plain air being pumped through the motor with no gas being injected, so an AFR of ~20 means completely lean.

Something's going on. You're getting a bunch on knock under boost and that DAM is really low. One of the places it dropped fast was under moderate load, above 2500 RPM, and barely positive boost. It might be fine to drive it gently, but I would stay out of boost.

I do wonder if you have a boost leak. It seems like your AFR should be richer for that section where you're above 8psi.

You also seem to be running rich at low load under vacuum. I'm not sure why that would be.

At this point, if it were me, I'd take it to the shop. I'm not sure what the next step in diagnosis is.

It should be fairly accurate when not under boost. Mine hovers around 14.7. 15-20 sounds like a leak somewhere. That means that your engine is getting more air than the MAF says that it should, which means a leak between the MAF and the intake valves. The fact that it's worse under vacuum means that it's likely between the turbo and the intake valves, maybe even between the throttle and the valves.

Can you post a log?

There's a little hose that plugs into the intake manifold behind and under the center that pops off on my car. Have you looked for that? It's the boost reference line for the BPV. You'd probably have to remove your TMIC to see it.

DAM dropping is not always a bad thing - It means that your ECU is trying to make sure you don't blow the engine.

I would have mine drop in the hot part of the summer - July and August mostly. Running 95 or 100 octane would fix that, which led me to believe that knock is just hard to avoid on 91 when it's 100+ out.

Remember that the OTS maps are very conservative since they have to be safe on everybody's engines with downpipes from all manufacturers. Have you considered an etune? That would be specific to your engine, mods, and other factors.

There's a small line on the back of the intake manifold that used to pop off on mine. I basically had to tug on the lines there to find the one that was loose. It sprung back to press on the nipple, so under vacuum my car ran pretty normal, but then wouldn't build much boost and would run rick when it did. It's actually the line that runs to the BPV.

A datalog would help a lot in identifying the problem.