blackobxt

I’m always more interested in the cluster view since the windshield view doesn’t do much justice even in an 8sec car. And whats reckless about recording yourself doing a pull on a closed competition course . Every legacy gt or outback xt I’ve ever driven has that same hesitation in that same exact spot, drives me nuts. Supposedly the Sti fpr is a fix for it and supposedly it isn’t. I grabbed one to try and it’s sitting on my shelf of mods that are waiting for me to not be lazy that I’m going to try out. The sti’s and non ej255 wrx’s don’t seem to have that issue.

A lot of people dream about those numbers so post some acceleration videos so we can live vicariously through you.

Do you know how to use a multimeter? If yes- check voltage at the plugs themselves with headlights on while also checking for continuity at the ground to verify. You should be seeing at least close to charging voltage (greater than 12v) with the vehicle running and headlights on. If no- take it to a shop or get lucky and find and replace burnt headlight connectors on both headlights (unlikely). most of the time when headlight connectors melt from a slow fault they just stop working. For it to be dim is possible but highly unlikely as if it was lit dim it would probably be melting the connector and connection even further till it just stopped. The fact that both lights are dim leads me to believe there is a problem somewhere in the circuit which is going to require more than entry level wire poking.

Old pic, it’s lower now but you get the idea

Looks exactly the same as mine. 2005 outback xt limited

Yeah I don’t like doing things twice lol. The car was originally put together with longevity and reliability in mind since it was originally for my wife but when we moved to az she decided she didn’t like clutching in stop and go interstate traffic and it became mine. If I would have known this was going to happen I would have changed the recipe a little bit for a good bit of more power but hey it’s no slouch with the turbo it’s got for now. But feel free to ask any questions you want, this is a pretty supportive community with a lot of good knowledge. And don’t be intimidated by these motors, you will probably step back and laugh when you realize how simple they are. If you know what you’re doing, you can have a motor out in well under an hour. out of curiosity, are you manual or auto?

Ok so, with yours being an 05 your engine designation ej255 however the shortblock and heads are exactly the same as the single AVCS Sti ej257. Pistons are the same, crank is the same, rods are the same, b25 heads are the same, cams are the same. If you get a new shortblock from Subaru, you will get the current revision which will include the nitrided crank. If you are planning on rebuilding this yourself, you will find that after machine work, parts and labor (even your own labor is worth money) that it will likely be cheaper to just buy a new short block from Subaru that’s ready to have heads thrown at it. The things you should not skimp on and replace are: oil cooler, AVCS solenoids (I have successfully cleaned these), AVCS gears or send them to outfront motorsports to be cleaned and reassembled on a jig. Oil pump should be disassembled and replaced depending on condition, I’ve seen a lot of these that will have debris impacted into the pump itself. The heads: these things hold an extreme amount of debris and every single oil galley plug will need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned with rifle brushes, many brand new shortblocks have failed quickly due to inadequate head cleaning. Another bear is the valve lash which is done with the buckets that go in-between the cam and the valves, you can either order a bunch of buckets and spend a ton of time swapping them around or a good machine shop can clearance them for you fairly quickly. Inadequate lash leads to burnt and leaky valves which is not uncommon. Also pay close attention to head surfaces where the cam rides for grooving. If it’s not too bad they can be polished out. If they are chewed up, they can be decked down and line honed but at that point I would consider either new or good used heads. When I did mine I also threw in a killer b oil pick up tube (some years the stock tube was prone to cracking, 05 wasn’t affected but why not), a new oil pan which was cheap and I wish I would have considered some baffling. I also did the TIC fu cam bolts since the stock bolts like to get chewed up during their unnecessarily difficult removal and I also replaced the non-AVCS cam gears since they are made out of plastic and while they are extremely strong I have seen them fail which is catastrophic. Make sure you research banjo bolt filter removal and up pipe cat failures. Subaru doesn’t even use the filters anymore and 99% of people will recommend that you also remove yours. Get yourself either an aftermarket catless up pipe or an oem catless up pipe, the cats are known for coming apart and tearing up turbos and causing restrictions resulting in damage. Also research on the front cam cap installation, they require liquid gasket and I’ve seen many times where people unknowingly seal the oil ports for the AVCS gears which results in a lot of issues, some of which can be catastrophic. If your power goals include anything north of 300whp you’re going to want to look into some different pistons. The ringlands are the usual failure point in these motors and have even cracked at stock power levels. If that’s the case I would recommend looking into something like the IAG 550 which is honestly a pretty decently priced shortblock for what you get. sorry, I know this isn’t put together the best and I basically just regurgitated a bunch of random info at you. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. These are good fun stout motors when put together right.

I’m about to jump onto a meeting for work then I’m going to throw a whole bunch of info at you lol. I too have an 05 outback xt 5 speed, bigger turbo, legacy suspension swapped lowered on koni with swift spring, Sti steering rack blah blah blah

It already is a legacy gt just taller and with a different trans (if it’s a manual) lol. It all depends on your goals for the car but get ready to spend some $$$$$. The price to get these things back on the road goes up every year.

If I lived in Australia I’d scoop up a Holden Adventra in an absolute hurry and would immediately start working on a turbo setup.

This post has me thinking a lot more than I wish it did. The car is getting old and the interior is showing its age with daily use and my two kids being less than gentle. It’s actually getting to the point where I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to get the car back to where I want it interior wise without spending a fortune. The suspension is 100% new but the car is no longer completely quiet and has its random clunks and rattles. Hell I just realized that my new motor isn’t new anymore and I’ve put about 100,000 on it since I put it together! Sadly, I think the car is going to eventually degrade faster than I financially will want to keep up with so we will see how long that will last. Our current plan is to get the house paid off then buy my wife something new then I was going to buy myself something fun after. Who knows, I might have to get something in between all that.

I have literally never seen another obxt since I’ve moved to Arizona. 2 or 3 outback bases. My Sti gets an uncomfortable amount of attention, literally people stopping on my street to take pictures of it. There are sti’s driving around here but they’re all new and still pretty scarce

Because it’s paid off, all of us comfortably fit in it, because I live in Arizona and nobody is going to buy it here, because it’s paid off and lastly I’m in so deep into this thing.

Oooofffff at least it doesn’t look like it got the quarter too bad

Out of curiosity, why don’t you like the Cobb inlet and what Perrin inlet are you switching to? I’m in the market and don’t feel like doing an oem unit

Datalog seemed to think so

I spent about 8hrs trying to find all the parts and pieces that were spread out between 3 shops and a shed all on this 3ish acre piece of land and about 2.5hrs getting the motor in. I had some concerns about the e85 that was sitting in the tank for about 2yrs now. After debating with myself on wether or not to drain it and realizing that I’ve never had issues or actually seen anyone have issues I decided to start it with what was in the tank and it fired off with zero issues. Drove it for 20miles with no leaks or concerns and decided to start the 1,013 mile journey home.

Not mine but it does belong here

Saw this today on the facebook

A whiteline rsb was an absolute game changer for me. I would have done it right away if I knew how much safer the car felt.

This has a lot of information on it. My outback is on lgt stuff, let me know if you have any questions.

Ooooweeeee who did you use? I have some brakes that need that kind of lovin

I don’t think I’ve officially disclosed that mine is a part of the 200k club yet. I’ll post a pic today.

When I had an aem wideband on my Sti I remember seeing exactly what you are noticing. The aem would read richer than the ap because it would only read so rich and coming to a stop the aem would read leaner than the ap.