Falcor

I replaced the downstream O2 a few weeks ago thinking that would fix it. I'll try the data log and see if I can see the wave. I'm hoping it's just a bad upstream O2. I would really rather not replace the cat if I don't have to. Thankfully the guy that did the timing belt/clutch did remove the cat off the turbo housing if I remember right to get the water pump swapped. He said he had to heat up the bolts to get everything loose. Hopfully what he did didn't cause the issue.

Guess what popped back up yesterday..... I'm thinking the only other things it can be is the other 02 sensor or the cat.

Sorry to hear. It's hard when you don't get to make the decision to move on. I drove a '24 Outback XT last weekend and it has some pep, so at least you have a good starting point. Good news is this year Cobb will finally be supporting the 2.4 in the Outback and I would think Legacy as well.

It's funny, I have never had a vehicle that had to have the starter greased. I had to do this on my 2010 Outback and the GT a couple times.

Swapped in the new O2 sensor on Wednesday and so far so good. I also cleaned the MAF sensor just to be safe. Today I went to install new rear brakes since the local shop told me they were thin and the Subaru dealer told me the were 3mm. I pulled the calipers off, and they still have alot of life left. Checked my maintenance app and realized they only have 17k on them. I'll be returning the pads to the parts store. Front: Rear:

Sorry to hear it didn't sell. Especially after you put all that work into it. Did you ever take it to a dealer or place like Carmax for a trade in quote?

Not saying yours wouldn't have a problem, but I had about 120k on my 2010 Outback when I sold it and it didn't have any issues with the CVT.

Dumb question, did your mechanic stick an inspection camera down inside and look around? Also, I attached the Subaru troubleshooting guide for your car. Maybe it has something you haven't tried yet.

Got a P0420 code Last Sunday and twice today. Bought a downstream O2 sensor (Denso) and will install it next weekend. Hopefully that will fix the issue. Thankfully with the AP I can clear the code for now.

No kidding.

Got with the local shop. They ended up covering the entire cost of the repair from Subaru. Everyone I talk to here has nothing but good things to say about them and they honored their warranty. That's great customer service.

Got the GT back on Saturday. It was all good, but I got a P0420 code on the way back home yesterday. Stopped and Googled the code. It could be a few things, and the only one I could do on the side of the road was reinstall the gas cap. Cleared it on the AP and it has not came back. It was weird though, the cruise shutoff and started flashing, brake light flashing, check engine and traction control lights came on. After I cleared the code everything was back to normal.

Not sure exactly what was replaced. I'll find out tomorrow. It was finished up yesterday, but I'm 1 1/2hrs from the dealer. I was planning on heading back through Springfield over the weekend anyway.

I’m hoping he helps out some. Not getting my hopes up though. The dealership ended up giving me a loaner. The timing belt was damaged and had to be replaced. So, two timing belts in 2k miles. The belt guides were loose and a few other parts were loose. I’m having them make sure to spell this out so I can take it to the local shop. Grand total will be right about $1500 for diagnostics and install of the new belt.

Yup. All new OEM parts. I bought the parts and a local mechanic installed. From what the dealership told me, nothing failed, but they did mention the guides were loose. They went through everything and put it back in time. Currently they are getting ready to start it up and confirm no damage was done internally. Waiting to hear their diagnosis. I have a feeling install was the issue.

They are still digging into what caused it to jump. Since it was one tooth it should be fine inside. They just need to figure out what caused it.

It wasn’t the fuel pump.

Service Advisor called this morning and I ok'd the diagnostic fee ($159.00). My wife and I have a competition, I thought it would be a $500 fix, she says $1k. After looking up the price of OEM fuel pumps, I think we will land somewhere in between.

The GT got to go for a ride this afternoon. I think it may be the fuel pump, it started dropping power on the highway when I pressed the gas, and died when I stopped on the off ramp. The down side is we were 2hrs from home. Had it towed to the closest Subaru dealer. Will update when it gets diagnosed.

Been throwing around the idea of trimming up my old 2010 Outback Rally Armor mudflaps and make them fit on the GT. I emailed Rally Armor and found out the Legacy mud flaps are 2" shorter. The rears will need a bit of modifying though.

Same here. I have the WRX STI short shifter and the -018 had the same problem. Perrin sent me the -019 after sending them a video. I’m getting the upgrade parts that go with the -019. A friend of mine has a 2023 WRX, and it takes the exact same kit.

Picked up a couple parts for the GT with the sales going on. Got the Perrin Super Shift Stop upgrade and an East Detailing steering wheel wrap/cover.

Not the cheapest option, but I would take it to a body shop so it is done properly. It would probably get the whole rear resprayed to blend. As far as prevention, that is basically a shelf for salt to sit in. So cleaning it out after the winter season would help. On my old CJ-7 it had a flat spot above the rear body mount that was the same way. Rusted right through the body.

Resprayed the wing (Superwrap). The original spray lasted 2 years, so better than expected. I also took a bit of time and cleaned up the engine cover and air box duct with Simple Green in the bathtub. Also cleaned up the buildup on the battery. When I bought all the clutch parts I got a new hold down since it was going to need repainting anyway. Everything looks way better.

Did you get the steering wheel installed?