stevenc1703

I'm working on a new setup, can't wait to finish it and show everyone.

Still waiting on numbers, 11 sec is pretty optimistic.

I'm getting 102db at wot and 96 cruising at 45mph ill try to check at 80mph but im thinking it's even quieter at 80, my car is tuned to be at 2600 rpms at 80mph and that seems to be a no drone frequency.

I need to get a new db reading since I removed the resonator. I found out the exhaust was resting on the body if the car causing excessive noise. It's actually quieter now without the resonator since its not touching the frame.

5000 is reasonable and I can install it myself, this might be in my future.

Lol, that's only 3 of them anyways, 2 pictures of 1 of them. The other 3 weren't in the proper position to get a good shot, i.e. to far forward.

I was checking spark plugs this week end and decided to stick a scope in the cylinder, do my pistons look normal or is there a little too much buildup?

Using open source tuning, the shifting has drastically improved, you should see really good results when ecutek implements the changes. You might not even need the gear swap. Imho the better shifting alone will get our cars significantly better times in a 1/4 mile let alone a good tune on aftermarket parts.

Lets take a poll, Who all is using what methods for tuning their 3.6r? I'll start I'm using a tactrix cable using romraider and ECU flash.

Sorta, it's easier than with the wrap but you have to tape the ends with a special tape to seal the heat out, of you take it off you will have to get more tape cause it won't stick after peeling it off.

Actually I had that on my Malibu and it cutters the engine bay possibly reducing natural air flow, it's too baggy. The wrap works very well and doesn't look too bad either.

I have the dei cool Tec tape on mine, I can post pics of my iat graph for comparisons. Ill clean the maf sensor today and start logging.

Maybe not then lol

Yea that's probably it then. Ill gap them this weekend.

Where are you located? Maybe due to America's crazy cries for gas mileage they opened the gap on USA models but the power loving people where you live got tighter gaps. Lol

There was one that was off unless I bumped it which is quite possible but the rest were right at .044http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/9ugu6ymu.jpg

Apparently I still have the factory NGK's, I thought I threw them out but I guess not. Thank God I'm lazy. Lolhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/3evyjypa.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/uhagyje6.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/arynujeb.jpg

.8mm = .031", why does NGK's website say it's .044"? Also it says .044 on the 3.0 legacy as well.

No

No, I just did on Friday so I didn't think It would be a big deal if I didn't. Should I if knock learning is showing 0 across the board?

Had anyone played around with this? It sounds like we have a acceptable range of .006 would we be able to tune for more power at .039 vs .045? I might play around with it at least using the accepted ranges.

Hmm, I just did a run and didn't have any knock. I changed the gaskets on the exhaust manifold today thinking that was the problem but the run I did afterwards still knocked. I wonder if it was learned knock and the gaskets fixed it. Ill do more runs and see

So if I'm producing -2.75 knock at about 4000rpms on load what do you think would cause it? Fyi I was producing knock on stock Rom as well and I'm running 93 octane Exxon gas.

I just installed new ngk plugs 3 months ago would it be ok if I pulled them out to check the gap or should I replace them if I pull them out? I'm trying to figure out my knock problem. It's been there since I was on stock Rom.

Why? What changes? Even if I had it tuned to that gap? Just curious