stevenc1703

Probably not something I'll do soon but still pretty cool if it works for our cars. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/catalog/subaru-complete-performance-transmission/5eat-performance-transmission-4050.html Here is the whole transmission. I found a guy with this one on a gen 4 gt running 350ish HP with no problems. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/catalog/subaru-modified-valve-body/5eat-valve-body-modification-service-all-with-five-speed-automatic-click-here-if-you-cannot-find-a-shift-kit-for-your-wrx--subaru-5eat-1966.html it says all 5eat but in the listing it says wrx 5eat. Is there a difference? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Yea, not ever doing that. I've read about the ipt trans upgrade, it's like 800. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Only if it's loose Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

How involved is that? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

How tight are they in the housing? One of mine I cut a little short but the insert was so tight I had to use a rubber hammer to tap it in far enough to screw in the bolt the other was loose until I got to the bumps and had to tighten the bolt to pull it in. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Better have the ipt 5eat transmission upgrade. I doubt it will take the power stock. Unfortunately turbo is a road I don't think I could ever afford to go down with this car. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Yea their site is terrible, try looking up the parts elsewhere and searching the parts code on Subaru parts warehouse. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Awesome, I just got special appearance headlights and 26mm front sway bar and bushings for 526 shipped. Thanks guys Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Do it, do it now!!! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

I need some people to like this on Facebook I'm so close to new headlights and 26mm fsb Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

I like it, it really makes it loud when I wan't it but still quiet rolling down the road. I'm still waiting on my HK funnel to see what that will do for me and I just got some dei cool wrap to help with heat transfer.

Yea, what he said lol.

OK, so I called tech support and that is normal. Apparently the small hole draws in more air than a bigger hole. Hopefully this info will help anyone like myself that might be concerned by the small hole. I remember a friend in high school had a short ram installed and he pinched the vacuume line and his car started leaking oil permanently. I don't want anything like that to happen to my new Rue.

I just got my takeda intake for my 3.6r, I noticed that the air line on the pipe only has a small hole in it. is this normal?

And pics, lots of pics. Lol

I saw these headlights for the outback, they should fit the legacy as well. they look pretty cool but I cant find a pic of them on a car.

Update: I think I figured out the best amount of polyfill, I used 1lb of Acosta-stuf, I sprayed 3m adhesive to the walls of the box and I applied the polyfill to the sides and floor of the box. The result is a great improvement from the Walmart stuff thrown in the box. I also ordered a soundstream sound processor to help strengthen the bass. I can't wait till the sub breaks in to see what this system can really do. I just finished my sub install on my 2011 legacy and I thought I would post up info and pics. I wanted to first thank minuccims because my inspiration came from his sub build. I wanted to keep my trunk space but I wanted a little more bass on my h/k system. I have the limited 3.6r legacy with kenwood navigation and Harman kardon sound system. I wanted to keep everything but add a sub, so after hours of research I have a strong SQ system, this is not a SPL system, if you want your ears to bleed this probably wont do it but if you want to keep your trunk then read on. First I got the amp, crutchfield had a Alpine Mrp-m500 on scratch and dent for 111 shipped. I wanted something small but I also prefer big name brands so I couldn't go with any of the more expensive smaller name small amps. the Alpine is about 10"x10" so its not to bad. Next I had to figure out the sub, I was between the JL 13TW5V2-2, the Alpine SWR-T12, and the MTX FPR12-02. the JL was the best option for install because it has the smallest mounting depth at 2.63" and the largest surface area with the 13" woofer but I was on a budget and at $400 it was out of my price range. next was the Alpine, ive always been a fan of type r's but even they are $300 so my next choice was the MTX. the MTX is on par with the type r and almost half the price at $180, plus it comes in a 2 ohm, the type r only comes in 4 ohm. I got the MTX for 170 shipped from online car stereo with a discount they were running at the time. I bought a knuconcepts 4awg wire kit from amazon for $33. they are great wires and pretty cheap compared to other good companies. the power and ground wires are pretty straight forward, there is a large unused grommet by the brake booster, I mounted the ground to the rear strut tower. the pre-amp and remote wire locations are under the front passengers seat, I will attach a pic from another forum with the locations and a pic of my wire work. the Alpine amp has line level inputs so I didn't use a LOC, unfortunately the amp doesn't has a remote volume control so I got a inline volume control and I mounted it to the center console next to the heated seat switches. the last part was the box, I used 3/4" MDF, the dimensions are 23" X 25" X 4 1/2" I cut off the top corners of the box so that it would fit in the tire well, I marked 4" from the top corner across and then down then I cut from mark to mark, I did that on both top corners. next I cut the side pieces about 2 3/4" wide, for the top corners you have to cut the angles at 22.5 degrees if you want your joints to be flush. next I did the screws caulk and cut the hole, that's all pretty easy to figure out, I used a good bit of poly fill but im still experimenting with different brands and amounts. for my build I wanted to keep the old trunk liner so that I could go back and forth if I wanted to so I had to make a new liner. Subaru uses a corrugated plastic with carpet glued on so I did the same. I got the corrugated plastic from lowes by the plexiglass, it was about $8 for a 30" x 36" sheet I needed 2 for the job. next was the carpet, good luck finding a perfect match, apparently Japanese colors are not available in America so I used the closest thing I could find, charcoal grey, its a pretty close match. I matched up the corrugated to the original liner and made my marks, cut it out and line it up to make sure you are good. next you should cut your perforations so that you can bend it like the Subaru liner, if you use a razor blade you can cut the top layer of plastic and it will bend like the Subaru liner. next I duct taped the liner pieces together and positioned them on top of my sub box, you need them to hang over the front of the box about 1" to account for the lip on the back of the trunk. I used locktite glue and wood staples to secure it to the box, now cut out your sub hole. next lay out your carpet, I used 3M adhesive spray, cover it up as best you can and once again cut out your sub hole. that's pretty much it, I added handles so that I could get the box in and out of the trunk easier. I added a grill to protect the sub, I had a hard time finding one that would fit, not get hit by the sub, and provide adequate protection from things in the trunk. I ended up using a 15" waffle grill from a local car audio shop, the 12" was to small, I used spacers and secured it to the box in 8 places creating a good protection for the sub, I installed a quick connect in the line from the sub to the amp so that I can pull the sub out in a couple of minutes if I need to. the total weight added to the car is about 50lbs give or take, not to bad if you consider my other car has about 250lbs in it and this system actually sounds clearer and more enjoyable, my other system is more of a SPL setup. if anyone has any questions please ask and I will try to save you some of my headaches. R386 (2010-2012): http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74326&thumb=1&d=1319103983 Inputs into the h/k amp (from the HU's four speaker outputs) Code: ____ | | 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Harness R386 (2010-2011, and 2012) Code: Pin Function --- -------------------- 1 (NC) 2 Front Left Door – (from HU pin 7) 3 Front Left Door + (from HU pin 8) 4 Front Right Door – (from HU pin 17) 5 Front Right Door + (from HU pin 18) 6 Shield for speaker inputs 7 (NC) 8 (NC) 9 (NC) 10 Ground 11 VSS input (for SVC) 12 Amp remote turn-on 13 (NC) 14 (NC) 15 (NC) 16 (NC) 17 Rear Left Door – (from HU pin 5) 18 Rear Left Door + (from HU pin 6) 19 (NC) 20 (NC) 21 (NC) 22 Rear Right Door – (from HU pin 15) 23 Rear Right Door + (from HU pin 16) 24 (NC)