stevenc1703

So I took it off and found out that I didn't have the key lined up right. I feel so stupid, chock that up to inexperience. I put it back on the right way this time and it looks pretty straight. I can't see any wobble other than the center cap, there is just enough play in the cap before I tighten it down that I doubt I could ever get it perfect. Thanks for the help, ill have to get the gator belt sometime soon, I can have that swapped out in 10mins so that's not to bad.

Oh x pattern, yea I did that, I found that the washer was sticking out on one side and that caused the cap problems. It looks better now that I fixed that but the pulley still has a small wobble like it's warped. I used the new crank bolt and washer. I need to take a new video from the side to show you but it's hard to see, like I said I'm a worry wort but with the Crank shaft bearing issues I don't want to risk it. I don't want to have to replace bearings in 10000 miles.

What do you mean standard x torque pattern? I used the stock belt. Ill try to take it off this week to look closer at the pulley, it might be warped.

After looking closer i think the pulley is ever so slightly warped. The pulley is not wobbling up and down on the shaft it's wobbling back and forth. There is no play on the wheel and no noise. Do you think that I should be concerned? I can swap them back out but I don't think it will be a problem cause I don't think it's affecting balance any.

When you slid the pulley on did it seat on the key snuggly or was there some play in it?

Yea I think it's the cap is slightly uneven

Looking closer I think the wobble is at the center cap and my eyes saw it as the whole pulley. I torqued it to 144ft-lbs, not an easy task, and the tensioner doesn't move at all so I think I'm good. Here is a video of the pulley. Watch "Ez36 crankshaft pulley" on YouTube Ez36 crankshaft pulley:

I put the crankshaft pulley on but it had a little play around the key, not much but some. Being as much of a worry wort as I am I was looking very close at the new crank pulley to make sure that every thing is good and I noticed a very slight wobble almost like the pulley is not perfectly round. Is this something to be worried about and is it from the play on the key?

Also I've got the sub in the trunk, my kids car seats, and different junk in the car that will be removed plus the spare, rear seat, and maybe passengers seat will be removed for less weight. The guys at work are racing and we are gonna rank ourselves. I'm going up against a ls1 GTO, 91 5.0 lx mustang, 2013 5.0 GT mustang and who knows what else maybe a modded evo x, I can't be last, they already call my car the granny mobile. Lol

No real difference. According to a frame by Frame break down it's 0-60 in 5.2 secs 0-80 in 10 flat and 0-90 in 12.2. Light weight crank pulley going on Saturday so these times should get better, plus I have a tune with more timing that I can't currently run because of knock but I should be able to when I get some VP 109 for my drag race in November.

Here 0-80 traction control off. Watch "3.6r 0-80 traction control off" on YouTube 3.6r 0-80 traction control off:

I'm gonna get them changed to 6000rpm shifts when I have the headers tuned, Should be even quicker.

Here is a video of my car going 0-90, It's slightly uphill. Watch "Subaru 3.6r 0-90 XTREME RACING TUNING" on YouTube Subaru 3.6r 0-90 XTREME RACING TUNING:

That's one of the mods I've been wanting to do, how much of a difference is it from stock?

That's terrible:eek:

Late December.

2011 RRP 3.6r Male 28 Lab technician for Green Bay Pkg 1997 legacy L (wrecked) and 2011 legacy Exhaust, intake, tune, konis, H&Rs, STBs, bigger sway bars, lca's, & some body work

Oh wow, that's rich. Ill have to watch out for that when I install the headers. I need to get on a dyno to get some real numbers. I am going to the strip on the 15th pending rain.

Ok I misunderstood. Also you said that afr's are more than 12 never leaner, I run as low as 11.12 it seems with my car richer at wot ran better, do dyno results show otherwise?

Your tune had negative timing and your ignition advance was not at 1? I thought I had read that this is bad. I had read that you should always be at 1 on ignition advance and pulled timing should never be more than -2 consistently. Please help me understand if this is not correct.

Did you bypass one of the o2 sensors?

This is interesting, ultimately I want to hear stock is prefect don't switch cats but I don't want regret either. Either way with raptor not getting headers in till December I'll have some time to decide.

these look promising http://www.ebay.com/itm/140942069195?item=140942069195&viewitem=&vxp=mtr maybe these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnaflow-99355HM-Heavy-Metal-Catalytic-Converter-Round-2-25-w-O2-Port-/111216590574?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e5067eee&vxp=mtr , the way I look at it if I don't do cats now I probably will never do them so I should at least do some research. I wont be doing ceramic and im not gonna spend $300 to do it but I might do $140. I cant tell but it looks like these are ceramic even though it doesn't say.

What do you think of the stock cats? Is it worth upgrading?

I bet your doing small burnouts now lol. 0-60 down to about 4 seconds? I was worried about upsetting the wife by getting these but seeing your results who cares, if I have to get divorced so be it. Are the headers 2 1/2"? I'm looking into getting cats.