discojon

It is a very tight fit. However, that's what some folks want. That's why I'm making other configurations available. If you have any ideas for a custom config post it and I'll see if it's possible. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

These are modeled to replace the door. I presume I could make one narrow enough to fit with door on but the cubby would likely have to be irreversibly modified to make it fit. The way it is designed now it is completely reversible Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Ok I have a version ready for printing. This one uses a pinned mortise and tenon to hold the arms in place. I'll likely add a few drops of CA glue to secure things. I'll try to get this one finalized and printed today or tomorrow.

I made a few changes (added fillets to smooth out transitions) and added mounting tabs. The tabs have to print seperate and be attached during post processing so the original pod had dovetails there. I'm going to simplify that design and add in a mortise and tenon style joint i believe. The shear force there isn't very high at all. I need to make the changed to the double and double + post pods also. I've uploaded current progress to thingiverse. Thingiverse Link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2074838 Edit... Shapeways will print it for $96.90

From what I recall the pod does fit a flashforge, barely. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Ok I have a double pod and triple pod scaled correctly now. I still need to add in the mounting tabs. I will model another double pod with the arm for a 1 inch ball also (gps or other device mount). I'll try to keep the files updated and posted to thingiverse. There are several here in the this thread that will print for you. There is also the option of professional printing through Shapeways or the like. I'm also considering cnc machining a small batch from either an exotic wood or plastic / delrin.

I went ahead a modeled up the main pod. I need to verify dimensions later. I'll try to come up with a few different configurations now that I can easily modify it.

I'm going to work on re modeling the pod this weekend in Fusion 360 so I have better creative control of it. Hold tight all and I'll get back to you.

Ok All. I've posted the Cubby gauge pod files to Thingiverse. It's not my original work, but haven't been able to get ahold of the creator for over a year. The files works as is but needs some cleanup after. I haven't the time to clean up the models. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2074838

I do recall. I will see what I can come up with. I should have some time in the evenings this week hopefully.

So, after a short hiatus to focus on other projects, I am back to the forum. The latest news I have is that this sat I am picking up my new (to me) Lathe and Mill. Both are manual control for now with the intention of converting to CNC some time in the future. Once they are up and running I will check back and see what else I can do for the community. Custom turned shift knobs, si drive knobs, and other items are now within my grasp. I would consider myself an amateur machinist on the manual machines but I hope to pick it up quickly. If you have ideas of parts you'd like to see just let me know.

218,000 on my 5EAT. All original internals, Hexmods Valvebody at 140,000. Went Stage 4+ at 140,000 also. No additional cooler, fluids changed every 35,000 or so. Still holds 22psi daily and works brilliantly.

I came out to the car this morning the my beloved vbg1 was dead. No lights, no display, no beeps. I verified power to the sending unit and the display. I've sent an email to Andy pleading for help lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Rather than 3d printing these, I'd be game to try a resin casting I n a silicone mold for them. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I think SLA would be the choice for these, but cost will likely be prohibitive.

Streetlegal, I'd be willing to upgrade my printer to a dual extrusion setup and do these with a dissolvable support structure. Don't want any profit from it, but it'd be great if the toolhead cost would be offset from sales. If you PM me the internal volume of the model, I can get you per piece materials cost. I'm even set up to Livestream so everyone could watch live as they print. Live.EmergentPrinting.com

Full throttle shifts much smoother than part. a Full throttle 3>4 takes about 2 sec and is reasonably smooth. Part throttle 3>4 take anywhere from a couple to 5 seconds to complete the shift, resulting with the can banging into 4th violently if i don't rev match.

Thanks for the awesome support. EMail sent. The 205k is on original internals. I added the F1 at 140k ish a couple years ago. I haven't noticed any slippage surprisingly, even at (sigh) Stage 4 power levels for 60k miles. One issue that did crop up yesterday was this. The Vent on top of the transmission was leaking. I noticed that it was loose/pulled askew and there was a ripped vent breather hose that was leaking some ATF. I don't ever remember damaging the nipple so not sure why it was loose. And i assume the leaking ATF is due to a slight overfill? I pressed the nipple back in and put a new vac line up to under the TMIC. I'm also going to check fluid levels tonight and drain a bit if it is too full. ( I recently drained and refilled with new and may have gotten a bit much in )

I'm still having a delayed upshift from 3 to 4 resulting in a hard drive line bang if I don't rev match. I never drove the car prior to completely rebuilding motor and doing f1 vb. Recently flushed transmission and changed oil. Now it feels like the 3-2 downshift comes on too early. Using atf-hp. 205k on 5eat, 60k on f1 vb Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I'm seeing some weirdness after I had the airbag recall done. In general, the boost reading on the vbg1 is 2 psi lower that the map sensor shows. Vacuum shows fine, 19-20inhg at idle. Any ideas why boost would show lower but vacuum would show fine? I'm seeing slightly positive A and B, and slightly negative C and D learning view values. I'm going to tear the lower dash out and check the vacuum line tonight.

I do and I'd be willing to print them. I looked into making these once but IIRC there was bumper foam behind the vents or something that wouldn't allow them to be functional.

I could see this working. The need for it though is another thing. Do you have any ideas on where you would pull the air from? Abs won't hold up to intense brake heat if near the rotor. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

What was damaged on the glovebox door? The pivot point on the right side of mine was damaged.

Yeah, I didn't have any unusual smells after I picked mine up. just a bunch of broke stuff.

The only reasons I can think of the AC not working would be damage to HVAC connector preventing A/C compressor to turn on or possibly damage to the HVAC system indash. Is your Compressor running when called? Do all of the stations work / recirc / outside air, dual zone?