dmend

Looking to find out the most a deck can be milled on an ej22, 1955 with 1997 heads on it. This a daily driver not a high performance machine. From what I've found the piston to deck clearance is: Piston to Deck clearance is -0.012. Valve Clearance: .008" intake .010" exhaust Thanks, Dmend

Thanks for the link. Got the FMS and with further google searches now understand the different sizes. Could this be an aftermarket block since it doesn't have the stampings on it (see picture above). I've got Cyl #1/B-piston, #2/A, #3/A, #4/B. Need to replace #3 piston due to slap that damaged the skirt. Only place I can find a single piston is Subaru parts and they only I.D. pistons as left or right, no A or B choices. Just thinking through this....isn't the point of the A-B sizes to best fill the cylinder to match compression and minimize vibrations by pairing the A and B properly. Maybe not enough of the pistons sold to warrant manufacturing different sizes anymore. Thanks, Dmend

I'm doing my first ring replacement and both Haynes and The EndWrench Subaru Overhaul document say "Piston and bearing dimension information is stamped on a machined surface where the crankcase halves meet." My EJ22 doesn't have that. The Haynes book lists A, B, C spec variations but no explanations for them. Can anyone explain how to use these specs? Thanks, dmend

I had a cam go bad so I found heads from a 2.2L 1997 EJ22 and will put them into a '95 2.22L. I was looking at the manual and noticed a lobe height difference. The '97 having taller intake lobes and shorter exhaust lobes. Using the actual intake lobe height of the '97 cam subtracting it from the '95 specs and it is .0093 inches taller (~business card thickness). The exhaust will be .0257 inches (~2/3 of a millimeter). I think the intake will not make a difference because fuel volume is regulated. However the exhaust valve will not open as far, thus a shorter time for exhaust to escape. Could this cause me problems???? Thanks, dmend

Great suggestion Brighton96. Much easier way to tap into crank case vent system than tapping and drilling the head. Though, I do prefer to keep the dual port exhaust. You say later model heads can be used, I ask how much later???? I've found one post that suggests the camshaft can be swapped. It would be nice to know for sure. dmend

My camshafts are worn and I found a set of heads that have usable cams in them. The issue is my engine is non-interference and the donor engine is interference. Could I just swap heads? Are the pistons different on the 1997, which could make it "interference"? Mine---------------------- Donor 1995-----------------------1997 EJ22---------------------- EJ22 2.2L------------------------ 2.2L Non-interference------- Interference EGR------------------------Non-EGR Manual Trans------------Manual Trans Dual port exh.-----------Single port exhaust Hydraulic valve adj.----Non-hydaulic (adjustable) ................----------------Phase 1 Can I swap the rocker arms? My rollers are starting to pit. EGR: I will have to plug the EGR tube inlet on the block or drill and tap the donor head. I've never swapped parts like this before so I'm a little hesitant to jump in with out some advice. Thanks, comments very much appreciated. dmend

Thanks for the offer of the camshaft. As you can see I'm in need of both sides. dmend

Yea, happy and sad at the same time…. Intake specs: 1.2596 to 1.2635 Mine intake is: 1.2520, 1.2514, 1.2275, and 1.2514 I’ve been perusing the forums, parts stores and dealerships and it is not looking good. Dealership says camshafts are N/A, can’t find anyone for a new grind camshaft , haven’t seen a performance cam for the 2.2L. Surefire and ATK engineering make remanufactured heads but have Better Business Bureau reviews that aren’t glowing. I don’t want to put 2.5L heads on this engine. Any chance you know what Subaru models and years would have interchangeable camshafts or heads with a 1995 legacy, 2.2L, SOHC, EGR, non-turbo? This engine was originally paired with an ATM. What does the Manual Trans head cylinder have different than the ATM head. Regards, dmend

Eureka!! I think I found the problem. The right side cam is excessively worn on the intake lobes. Deep groves in them. The exhausts aren't too bad. The right side intakes not as bad but still some groves. The exhausts are about the same as the left. Won't be able to put a micrometer on them until they are extracted. I'll post the numbers. dmend

Everything checks out with the DVOM. Cam and crank sensors, a new subaru TPS, Fuel injectors are sound strong and consistent, fuel pressure regulator is good, IAC, Barometric Atmospheric sensor, fuel pump, EGR valve works, strong spark at all spark plugs. Under the assumption the valve timing is correct.... What's left is the issue of a vacuum leak and exhaust smoke. The vacuum gauge at 400rpm idle reads 8 hg in. Crack the throttle and it will drop towards zero. With new intake gaskets installed with copper spray to help ensure sealing. New vacuum hoses and zip tied for sealing. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner, bundled incense sticks to create smoke and can’t find a leak source. I’ve even pressurized the intake manifold and did not find a leak. The question is: what else can cause low vacuum? If vacuum is caused by the pistons drawing in air and moving out exhaust then if the heads are leaking coolant into the cylinders causing poor combustion (low, rough idle and smoking) then there would be less vacuum in the system. I had the heads resurfaced back when all this started and the machine shop said he took off 6 ten thousands and said there are still some dips. I think my next move is to pull the heads and check them for flatness and the engine case also. Maybe my worst case scenario will be only getting new/other heads and the case will be fine. Thanks, dmend

I really didn't expect this but the timing marks look dead-on. So if the timing is right, the crank and cam sensors are working, and as of yet I haven't found a vacuum leak, a rough idle could be caused by bad coil? Tomorrows task. dmend

The cam gears are on the correct sides. "L" is on the driver/left side head. I pulled the cam sensor and located the tabs that change the magnetic signal just to make sure they were there. At this point I can't do the scope thing, but I like the kit idea-its on my radar.... Pulled both the crank and cam sensors. Showing 2.07 and 2.08 ohms. on the DVOM. Specs being 1K-4K ohms. When passing a bolt past them the ohms changed, though the readings weren't consistent, i.e., 1.92, 1.91, 1.65, 1.87, 1.15, 1.35, 0.77. It is very likely due to my inability to position the bolt exactly the same distance each pass. So, I tried placing the bolt on the face of crank sensor with similar results, inconsistent ohms readings. SO...thinking back about setting the timing I think the belt on the crank gear and the crank mark is off. I found a picture in Haynes manual that clearly shows the crank mark in line with the case mark. I've been setting the crank mark at 12 o'clock. All though I've counted the teeth on the belt I've never been able to get the center/crank belt mark directly under the mark on the case, always just to the left, about 1/2 tooth distance. My next move is to go back and reset the timing belt and crank. dmend

I"m pretty sure the cam gears didn't get mixed. But, you never know.....will check it out. Your feedback has given me a path to pursue, better then throwing darts. Thank you. Now, back to the garage.... dmend

It starts quickly, idles very rough and rocks/vibrates (like ignition wires are crossed), but they aren’t, and will barely stay running. Opening the throttle is like half the engine wants to accelerate and the other half wants to die. Previously, while idling I pulled each ignition wire and replaced each and found strong spark and Cyl 3,2,&4 there was no idle change. When I pulled cyl 1 the engine died. Cyl 1 Cyl 3 Cyl 2 Cyl 4 Cold Compression Test 190 200 200 200 Leak down Test #1 20% 15% 15% 15% Leak down Test #2 15% 15% 15% 15% Vacuum gauge shows 7-9 in. Hg. and drops towards zero as the throttle opens. Smoke is blue gray and holding a paper towel to the exhaust catches a lot if soot like debris. Listened to injectors with a stethoscope and they were strong and consistent. Background info: Was running fine and one day on startup it began blowing massive amounts of white smoke. It was moist and sweet so I figured a head gasket blew. Engine has 180,000 miles on it so pulled the heads and changed head gaskets, but used same intake manifold gaskets (they were new earlier this year). Engine still was smoking but less coolant and more oily residue in tailpipe. Pulled the heads and had them resurfaced, new head gaskets and installed, also used same intake manifold gaskets. No coolant burning, but very sooty smokey exhaust, this is when the smoke was clearly blue/gray. It hasn't ran right since. Machinist said he had to take off 6/10,000. Replaced intake manifold gaskets. Thanks, dmend

I set the timing using the cam markings and crankshaft mark to line up with their respective marks. I replaced the intake gasket and all the vacuum hoses are new. The engine starts but barely runs and smokes. The vacuum gauge suggests late valve timing. I pulled the cam covers and both marks line up with the cover marks. I'm assuming the crankshaft is still correct. Also, I am not getting any OBDII codes. I verified the tooth count on the timing belt so I have the correct belt. If there is no vacuum leak and the timing is right. Could the ECM be getting a signal from a component to cause late valve timing? Pictures are after I rotated the engine four times, that's why the belt marks aren't visible. Thank you, dmend