ashwinearl

I'm moving closer to making the plunge into a new short block on my 2005 Legacy GT wagon 5MT. I'm trying to figure out logistics for going this route. I'm also suspecting my valve seals might need refreshing. My intended path is MaxCapacity's build with a new crate EJ257 with stock pistons. My local mechanic can pull the engine and disassemble it, but isn't a "Subaru specialist". I'm still looking into reputable local machine shops with turbo Subaru experience. I am in Utica, NY central NY. If using a non-local machine shop, do you mail then your stock heads? Do they need the pistons or entire short block too? Will they also inspect/repair valve seals? I have seen recommendations for the following machine shops to ship heads to: headgames Eastwoods Auto Machine Is reassembling the machined heads with the new shortblock something at a decent shop should be capable of doing? I would get ARP Head stud kit. I'm still on the fence about going all in, or cutting loses. I've put so much into it already, but being an East Coast car, the rust is starting to catch up, and there are more things breaking every other month. thanks

I just found a crack in my Cobb up pipe. It is about 4 years old. I am going to go Grimspeed for my next one. Can a cracked up pipe contribute to running rich at WOT?

Up Pipe has a crack init. I paid the money for the Cobb catless up pipe 4 years ago hoping to avoid things like this. Still trying to diagnose smoke after idle and at WOT. Has anyone experienced valve seals being the cause? The turbo is a rebuilt JMP with 60k on it. It is not making any noise and reaches boost fine. We are replacing the PCV to be safe, but it was replaced about 60k ago too. If it is something deeper in the engine, like valve seals, it seems like the money spent in labor for that would justify just going big and do the whole short block?

Thank you very much for this link.

I really like the Pennzoil Euro Platinum (0W40). But I can't find it anywhere except Walmart and usually have to get it online.

refers to it as a Vent Mode Actuator

I am in the middle of this right now. I was hoping it was wheel bearings or tire balance issues. It is driveshaft. I am going OEM, but there is an outfit in Texas called Driveshaft Specialists and they can make one that is better with rebuildable U joints in 36hrs at $515 shipped UPS.

I've thrown a lot at the steering except a new STI rack. I'm resigning myself to accept that the LGT wagon was designed as a touring, relaxed grocery getter. Trying to force it to do what it wasn't designed for has diminishing returns. Here is a list of things I have done to steering/suspension. That might give some ideas. 22mm front sway bar 20mm rear sway bar AVO rear sway bar bracket (a must if you have an upgraded swaybar) Energy suspension greasable sway bar bushings front/rear Kartboy Front endlinks Whiteline adjustable rear endlinks Whiteline steering rack bushings Cusco Steering Rack Brace STI Steering U-Joint knuckle (Perrin makes something similar) KYB Excel-G front and rear struts Stock Top hats (which I had gone group N) King lowering springs front, Eibach springs rear

I just had my oil cooler gasket replaced. The symptom was a very slow leak from the area. There was always a few drops on the bottom of the oil filter when I changed the oil. From reading, it is a common problem. The gasket starts to flatten over time and can't seal anymore. Someone had posted a picture of an old one and new one side by side and the new one had more rounded shape.

Just FYI, I heard back from Driveshaft Specialist Inc in Texas. They have all the components to construct a new drive shaft. The timeline was 24-36 hours. $515 including ground shipping through UPS. OEM through the shop I am working with is $630 something. I've already started the process of getting an OEM one, so am not moving on the Driveshaft specialist one.

I have been experiencing an oscillating hum from the wheels/tires. My hope was that it was a typical wheel bearing issue or related to tire balancing. The shop diagnosed it as driveshaft. I am currently waiting on an OEM one. **EDIT** was just researching and came across this part in the sticky on parts: Dorman 936-955 for 5MT. Also found these guys from a picture someone had posted of their custom drive shaft: http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Import%20html/Subaru.html Owning this car is like child birth and selective memory. After going through one issue, I forget about it and think about the next thing to mod or cool go fast bit to get.

I tried to teach on the turbo legacy and that was a very bad idea. It is a hard car to drive for me, let alone someone new to stick. Our 1998 Legacy Brighton wagon 5 speed: Now that worked out great to teach two kids. It got two kids through highschool and all their activities. They are both in college. Oone kid got Mom's hand me down and she got a new car. The other is freshman so doesn't have a car yet. The more important thing, is my Turbo Legacy is always getting worked on by me or the shop. Having that third car on hand has been a lifesaver.

Found a cut in my MAF O-ring (see attached). I had a new entire MAF in a box so put that in and will replace the O-ring. I was hoping it would immediately fix my running too rich problem, but hasn't

I have no real experience with these, just arm chair surfing and came across some posts here and outback forums on ball joint issues with these. Here Post #7 Here at Outback forums. There are other thread out there. Two issues came up. 1) short lifespan on ball joints 2) a sleeve that sits inside the control arm that the ball joint goes into. This caused some grief removing the original ball joint and is needed for a good fit if you decide to change to another ball joint, like Moog.

Did you go for new lower control arms or put new bushings in stock lower control arms? If new, what brand? Mevotech? The reason I ask, is I am in the middle of searching on those, and came across several threads here an at Outback.org discussing Mevotech ball joints going bad very quickly and making noises on their Aluminum lower control arms.

I just got some Mevotech Aluminum Lower Control Arms from Rock Auto. I just started finding more negative comments on the ball joints that come stock in these. Are these still a problem?

5 revisions initially. I have checked in periodically over the years and received an update based on new approaches he has developed. I used Tuning Alliance on a 2005 LGT Wagon 5MT with Up pipe, Down pipe, TMIC, JMP VF40 Turbo, new fuel pump, EBCS,

I have no experience here, but have been collecting snippets of info regarding wagon exhausts from posts over the past few years. I had this in my notes: "Have you considered shopping for mufflers you really like and want, such as Magnaflow or Borla, etc? Good ones can be had for ~$225 apiece, add in a Vibrant reso (~$85) and take it all down to your local custom exhaust shop and have them make you a nice mid and Y combo (one or two piece, your choice)."

What were the part #s you ordered for the STI shortblock and seal kit? Thanks.

The same thing happened to me with a front Epic spring. I ended up with King springs on front. I have had HR on a 1998 Legacy with KYBs and liked them. I might be going back to stock springs though for winter.

*update* Had difficulty starting this morning when cold. I had the battery checked at Advanced and it checked out. Now need to consider the starter, and clutch sensors for the starter. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

boxkita, I am glad that even though you are selling your stuff, you are willing to keep schooling. I'm one of those people who equate stiffer/lower springs with better handling. I'm making a change in struts soon, most likely back to KYB Excel-Gs and after reading this now considering putting back the stock springs too. Currently, I have King Lowering in front and Eibach rear. With existing 22mm front and 20mm rear Whiteline swaybars, and Kartboy front and whiteline rear endlinks, it sounds like going back to stock springs matches my goal of more comfortable but not cushy?

Refer to this thread. There is some good discussion there. You mention sway bar end links, but have you upgraded the actual sway bars to beefier ones? You are looking for handling better while keeping the ride as cushy as possible. Those don't often go together. I'm am struggling with this right now and do not feel that Konis fit this description, either with stocks springs or after market springs. But I seem to be in a minority there, as many like them. I am very close to switching from my Konis to KYB Excel-Gs but keep my current after market springs (King lowering on front, and Eibach on rear). I have some experience with HR springs and KYB with swaybars on a 1998 Legacy wagon and that was a good compromise of tighter handling with some comfort.

New issue experienced today. Drove to lunch, 15 minute drive. It had difficulty restarting. It cranked and eventually started, but would not fire right up and did have fuel smell after cranking. There are no problem starting in the morning. There are no codes thrown. This has happened a few times now, but not repeatable every time. Researching has pointed to a variety of sensors that might need cleaning or replacement. Coolant temperature sensor Camshaft positions sensors Crankshaft position sensor Another thread considered a fuel issue and vapor lock. Without codes, is there somewhere to start? I need my support group pep talk also...! It's been tough lately, at 156k miles. Everything seems to be going: radiator failure, boost hoses are disintegrating, axle seal, radiator hoses, muffler flanges breaking, ignition coil, a TGV went few months ago, oil cooler gasket leak, shifting getting notchier... Somethings are my own fault, like changing struts and springs thinking I want to be sportier, and now wanting to go back to something more comfortable...

I have had Konis front and rear with stock springs, with Epics front/rear, and now with Kings Front, Epic rear. The main thing I don't like about the Konis is initial harshness on sharp transitions, like pavement seams and broken up pavement. Here in Upstate NY there are so many chunks of pavement missing from the freeze/thaw cycles. I know one is blown or on the way out right now so everything is magnified more. But they've never clicked with me. I've tried dialing in/out the adjuster with the white knob, but that really only addressed controlling bouncing as it is strictly rebound adjustment. I am not sure if I'm using the correct terms, but I think the default high spped compression damping is too high for what I want. The early post by Underdog about tuning is Konis discusses this issues some. I have a 1998 Legacy wagon with WRX sway bars, some model KYB, and HR Springs and want to get a feeling like that. Planted but not as harsh on rough roads. I used to think I wanted tight handling and could deal with firm ride. But that is more being arm chair forum reader, and now want more comfort. I do have nice sway bars and endlinks so hopefully it won't be that boat feeling of pure stock. I do have 3/8" saggy butt spacers. So may keep the Epic springs in the rear, but am considering going back to stocks springs on the rear like you did. Thanks for the insight.