ashwinearl

Can someone elaborate on the statement about "anti-roll bars are NOT recommended with Rallitek springs"? (is anti-roll the same as (anti)sway bar) I have 2005 LGT Wagon with koni yellows/stock springs, saggy butt spacerse, Whiteline sway bars Front/rear, kartboy endlinks. I want Eibach/Epic springs, but can't find them anywhere. The choices for wagons these days are H&R, Tein H-Tech, and Rallitek. From reading, it seems that H&R get the most recommendations with Koni's. The application is daily driver (stage 2 power), 17" wheels, in upstate NY. So snowy, not the greatest roads. I do want tighter handling than Koni/stock springs, but don't want too low or stiff.

Let's see the interior too. I put in aftermarket amplifiers, sub woofer and Morel Tempo speakers and was disappointed with the sound. That 2005 stock head unit is so muted, I don't think it can do justice to your aftermarket audio. I've heard the 2007 head unit is much better, or the cleansweep or JDM route is necessary to get past that stock equalization

I am on my initial MAP with boost set low to get a base line. I'm excited to go through the process. Cobb Up Pipe| Cobb Down pipe | Grimspeed TMIC | JMP VF 40 | DW65 | Stock injectors | One Step colder plugs | Cobb EBCS | Cobb AP V2

This is my favorite oil filter wrench http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=379&division=1&category=9 http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/products/63600L.jpg

It's amazing the size difference between the new orange one and the old one that is in there. It's no wonder I pinched it the first try.

*sigh* I think I read somewhere to get two. Oh well, I'll go to the dealer tomorrow and get another. I hate going to my dealer's parts window. They always treat me like an idiot.. Hmmmmm. I can understand that now. I put the ring into the pump and then pushed the connector into it. Next time, I'll try putting the O-ring on the connector and then pushing it into the pump. Is there a torque setting for that 10mm bolt? I put the old O-ring (black and much thinner than this orange one) back on and it was leaking fluid till I tightened it more than I wanted to.

I did a PCV replacement and made it through that. I put everything back together, but forgot to connect that last small vacuum hose onto the Blow off Valve. It started to idle rough, then finally stalled with the common CEL code for leaks. I fully expected that I knocked some hose loose way down inside by the PCV. Thankfully, the first thing I saw was that dangling hose at the BOV.

Please advise. 2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT. Currently have whiteline sway bars 22 front/20 rear/kartboy endlinks front/rear 18" wheels The sway bars helped a little with body roll but not as much as I was hoping for. I want to get some tight handling but not rattle my teeth. Here are the combos I'm currently considering: 1) H&R springs paired with Koni inserts in KYB housings + saggy but spacer 2) new old stock Epic springs with Koni inserts in KYB housings 3) stock springs + KYB shocks struts 4) stock springs + koni inserts in kyb housing This will be in central New York in snow and some rough roads. The car handles ok on long sweepers but there seems to be a 'delay' before it feels tight. My 98 Legacy brighton has swaybars set tight and some KYBs and it feels much tighter. I am wondering how much in in the steering too. My 2005 LGT has problems with the steering pump any advice and best bang/performance is appreciated

What was your gas mileage with all the bikes on the roof. -Fellow 2005 LGT Wagon 5MT owner

I couldn't drive more than 3 hours without a pain in my hip (piriformis). I got the Freedom Center cushion and after getting used to it, no pain at all after long drives 6+hrs. They make a back pad as well

I've got the same wagon and have been able to fix up the paint reasonably well with a Porter Cable 7424xp. I am just a hobbiest and am not at the level as the author, but have been pleased in what you can do with off the shelf product and the Dual Action polisher. I spent several hours just reading at Autogeek, Autopia, detailers Image, and Meguiars forums to start understanding the issues. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/9598038235_30f059c983_c.jpg Subies are known for soft clearcoats. What that means is it is relatively easy to fix up the clear coat but also just as easy to scratch it up during washes in quick detailing. On the polisher, I got an after market 5" backing plate and use 5.5" pads. Right now I've got Orange, White, and Black hex logic pads but want to try some Lake county and the Meguiars micro fiber pad system. Also I want to try a light cut burgandy pad for the last polishing step. There are so many products out there and lots of hype around them it is crazy. I try to use bang-for-the-buck stuff and like Meguiars stuff. A typical process is wash with good soap or Optimum no rinse. dry. If it hasn't been clayed I'll use clay bar lubricated with quick detailer. Then Meguiars Ultimate compound with the orange pad at speed 5.5. I love ultimate compound. It is affordable and works well but the speed has to be higher and pressure at 10lbs and even. Work in small sections (2'x2') and don't work it too long. Clean the pad regularly. UC leaves a slight haze, so then I go to Ultimate polish with white pad. Ultimate polish is harder to use. It is finicky when wiping off and sometimes it seems really hard. a towel damp with quick detailer helps. I use speed 4 and have to be real careful of working it too long or trying to do too big an area. Right now I seal with Duragloss 111. And after it hazes I'll wipe it off with Duragloss Aquawax These two produce a plasticy wet look. It's nice but I want to go back to more wax look. Some say Duragloss 105 has a softer look. I might try Meguiars #21 sealant, and gold class wax I am also going to try ColorX for every other week maintenance. It is less aggressive then the ultimate polish and is safer to use. The idea is that once you do this level of correction, you "shouldn't" have to do it again. The reality is that just looking at our cars causes swirls. A big thing is to learn a good process for washing. The anal detailer guys have thought about this a lot. And it makes sense after doing all that work to polish the clear coat that just going to the car wash or not thinking about how you wash it will undo all that effort. Look up things like the 2 bucket method, grit guards,... and see how and why they suggest this system. The other thing is to be fanatical about the micro fiber towels used that touch the paint. Store them separate, wash them separate, throw them out if they have any grit in them. The final tip is to not hit it with quick detail spray every day. Every time you touch it there is chance to scratch the soft subie clear coat.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/9107921332_6638bfa27b_b.jpg 1st of 3 loads. in my 1998 Brighton. Hauled something similar in the 2005 GT. Once again, I am so thankful for Scooby wagons. It was drizzling and than raining. I love trucks and wish I had one too, but the wagon rules them all.