ashwinearl

Hi all. I have 2005 Legacy GT Wagon with Cobb Downpipe. My stock exhaust has a leak and am considering using this as an opportunity to get new exhaust. Goals are quiet sound with just that hint of boxer rumble. Any suggestions for picking individual components and then having a shop customize piping. Or getting a system for a Legacy GT Sedan and using extended tips to get the exit past the bumper? In searching old threads, I have seen suggestions for buying cans, vibrant resonator, and then needing custom Y pipe. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.

Here are some notes I have when I was considering new short block last year. I have a 2005 Legacy GT Wagon. Confirm with a dealer or performance shop. The Type RA is what I was going to go with, but some sellers will say they won't honor a warrantee if the shortblock doesn't map to your VIN #. 2004-07 STI Shortblock: 10103AC870 - This one EJ257 matches my VIN 2008-16 STI Shortblock: 10103AC890 2006-14 WRX/FXT/OBXT Shortblock: 10103AC880 10103AD020 type RA Heuberger Subaru typically had the best price on a shortblock, or similar dealer who sells online.

This Peak 50/50 Blue OET Asian vehicle coolant says it is for Subaru 2008 and newer. The Peak 50/50 Asian Green you linked to says Subaru 1990-2008

My tailgate light indicator is not going off, even with the gate latched. Is this a sign of the infamous tailgate wiring harness issues with cut wires. I had some broken wires fixed once by the dealer. Am I already there again? I got a phone call that my alarm was going off. When I went out to check on it, the alarm was off but the tailgate light was on. Later, trying to slam it shut, the indicator light never went off. I did try to go through the disable alarm steps in the Doors/Locks part of the manual. It did not seem to work. The instructions do say to have all doors/tailgate closed prior to starting the process.

To anyone interested. I am not sure my replies to PMs are going out. My sent folder shows 0 message. contact me directly ashwinearl@gmail.com for shipping estimate 18lbs from NY 13413 USPS 12x12x12 box Thanks

JMP modified VF40 70k Miles on it *SOLD* $250 + shipping from NY 13413 This is a JmP6889928 VF40 taken off my 2005 Legacy GT wagon. I purchased it new from JMP. It was replaced with a JMP VF 52. Pics attached: Here is the description JMP provided when I bought it: VF40 that will make it more reliable and much stronger in the boost department. I build a custom version that uses upgraded and modified internal parts-journal bearings, thrust plates, and much better than OE piston ring seals and then I use an aggressive extended tip custom billet compressor wheel that weighs half of the stock wheel and is capable of producing 20+ psi of boost.* I use new inconel turbine/shaft assemblies and then send the entire shaft/wheel assembly for dual plane balancing which is far better than the OE uses.* I do some polishing on the inside of the compressor housing and compressor backing plate.

I've copied some posts over the years, I'll paste below. I'm not suggesting all these. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html?t=178342&highlight=reliability+mods http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my05-09-legacy-gt-common-issues-230230.html?t=230230 http://www.legacygt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1411 • -Replace OEM Subaru Blue T fitting (Underneath the TMIC) with barbed fitting from Turkey lord and Company 23 - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-blue-tee-replacement-218783.html?t=218783&highlight=blue+barbed * *Remove Banjo filters (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html)**- especially the turbo one (passenger side), driver side AVCS not a must but should remove eventually too. * *Catless Uppipe (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-catless-uppipe-invidia-224448.html):**Stock one has a cat before the turbo, not only is it a restriction, it's also know to break apart and kill turbos. Get 07+ WRX/Legacy/STI one if you want oem, good aftermarket if you want SS and better flow. * *Crank Pulley Falls Appart (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/f-crank-pulley-229893.html)**- Get a new oem one or just upgrade to a solid lightweight aftermarket one. * *Retune the car, only need to zero out two tables:* 1. Stock Tune is too lean in boost (http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4725760&postcount=87) 2. Stock Tune adds extra timing to detonation sensitive cylinders. (http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4822363&postcount=153) Also if your manual, make sure your radiator relay #2 was replaced and your fans are not always on.

Can you post of picture of it installed? What gasket did you use between it and your TMIC? Any speculation on how it will with the Grimspeed TMIC as far as space goes fitting under the hood?

thanks for pointing this one out.

I'm feeling the need to unnecessarily throw money at the wagon and have been thinking about an aftermarket BPV. This would be a full recirculation setup with a Grimmspeed TMIC. I see that Cobb has redesigned their XLE into a newer model called the LF. Has anyone tried the new LF? I'm also thinking of the Forge BPV.

This is an old post, but the title exactly matched what I was searching on. I came across this bulletin from WRXs about clicking sound in clutch pedal being tied to gap in a bracket. https://subaru.oemdtc.com/366/elimination-of-creaking-sound-from-clutch-pedal-assembly-2013-2016-subaru

I have JMP Vf40 sitting on my bench. It was replaced with a JMP VF52. It has 60k miles on it and is available.

I have seen posts suggesting that the wiring harness to the MAF and the connector pin can also be a source of problems. I have experienced odd issues when removing the MAF to clean and putting it back on. Unplugging it and reconnecting it seemed to work. Here is a link the post and link to a replacement wiring harness/connector for it from i-wire Connecter is known to go bad: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/faulty-maf-sensor-connectori-255914.html I-wire.com makes a replacement connector with pigtails for easy splicing https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/maf-plug-02-07

I was chasing two things, one was vague steering and the other was front end vibration. My front end was very slow speed when turning and going over rough surfaces. Such as turning left over a drive way lip, or turning into a parking space that had rough pavement. I do feel that my steering rack has always been an issue and has slight leak. This has not been addressed yet. For steering, I ended up with: rebuilt Napa steering pump several replacements of the steering pump O-ring STI steering U-joint knuckle Cusco Steering Rack Brace Whiteline steering rack bushings Nothing addressed the shake described above. My steering is way better than stock, but still feels wonky under hard turn. When I put my snow tires on it feels really vague till I get used to it. I'd like to get an STI rack.

I had replaced the blue T of death with TurkeyLord's metal T a few years ago. The mechanic did this one for me. The car is driving great now. I can feel improved responsiveness. I don't know much about the EVAP system. Is it typical that fixing a leak here would impact overall driveability?

You know, I realized I had not updated this thread sorry. It had taken awhile to come together. After picking it up, there was the requisite leaks, and blowing hoses off. I had my main hose off the back of the manifold that goes to the TMIC pop off. That one scared the heck out of me. Cryotune was great to work with. He was very patient and answered my dumb questions. It has been very fun to drive. The group N engine and transmission mounts combined with the stage 1 clutch have added some vibration and a very nice growl. The JMP VF 52 is to die for. I love it. I did have an odd CEL P0442 Evap leak. Ironically the week I was going in for inspection. I reset the ECU and got 100 miles in when I took it in. They did find a leak at a plastic T behind the alternator-see picture I've also had an rough idle after start up and clutching in. I think I have always had it and the tuner suggested looking in the Blow off valve. The stumble at 2000-2500k is still there and wish I had replaced the stock set up with an STI one. Similarly, wish I had done the TGV deletes. I haven't driven it since they found that leak. In hindsight, I would say I am happy. The amount of money I spent does seem much higher than others and I didn't do the whole shortblock, just the heads. I didn't think I went really overboard in any of the parts except custom hoses. They aren't cheap ones, but not extravagant. The clutch, flywheel and exotic hose replacement pieces added up. Key mistakes were, we never really did a proper compression test prior to him getting into the heads, so don't know for sure the state of the stock engine other than it "looked pretty good" after taking the heads off. It took a long time, and sometimes wish I had just waited longer and spent more and just go the whole short block. I didn't end up doing much to the fueling other than an aftermarket pump I have had for awhile. Next big thing will be injectors, fuel pressure regulator and TGV delete, exhaust. So I hope I can get another few years out of the wagon. She is beaut. It still has rattles, a vibrating hum that we can't track down yet, and all the other common ailments of this gen. The money is under the bridge now and I just want more, repaint, floor mats, JDM tail lights, exhaust.

They found a leak at a plastic T behind the alternator. I have also had some rough idle issues after start up and clutching in. So not sure which this leak impacts. In the attached diagram, I believe the purge valve is part 42084G. The black T in question is part H505081. It looked like he identified the leak by spraying soapy water on the area and it bubbled. They replaced the T with a bigger one. I had replaced the Blue T of death behind the manifold, but really never acknowledged this other T off the Purge valve. I had reset the ECU and cleared the code on Monday and had 100miles on it when I had brought it in for the inspection.

I got a P0442 evaporative Emission Control System leak detected (small leak). From researching these are the things that have come up: -Gas cap loose -Bad Gas cap -Vapor canister Purge valve -leak in fuel hose / fuel tank I saw one post refer to waste gate not opening enough. Any tips on diagnosing? I am taking to mechanic on Thursday but just trying to do what I can at home. thanks

Has anyone tried Shell Rotella T6 Multi-vehicle 5W30? This guy has a good UOA on a Forester XT

I have a JMP VF40 sitting on my bench from my car. It has about 65k on it. I recently replaced it with a JMP VF52. I believe it is in good shape and had no spooling issues. My issue was smoke at idle and smoke show at WOT. The mechanic never did the basic diagnostics of compression and leakdown test. He had a hunch it was the valves. Heads were re-machined, kept stock block and replaced lots of other parts, turbo, hoses, oilpan....clutch, engine mounts.. It is running great . So we never performed diagnostics on the turbo itself to see if hot side seal contributed to the smoke. if interested let me know.

This Duralast 14-B from Autozone worked

You need to know what you are getting into. Read through threads like this one on reliability modifications. This car requires 'active' ownership. It is not like another car you can just drive and have fun. If you are not willing to check your oil weekly and top off weekly, then walk away. If you are not willing to clean the MAF, get a good tune for any modifications, and have the willingness to pay someone else or take the effort to track down gremlins, walk away. Are you willing to learn about banjo bolt filters? O2 sensors, OCV that need changing, stumble at 2000-2500 RPM, wheel bearings...

Heat shields vibration is common. When it has been really loud, a bolt is significantly loose. However, I experience this rattling often when letting off the clutch. It is especially noticeable with the warmer weather and driving with the window open. When driving by a retaining wall, I can really hear it. I think some of it is just the thin heat shield material and the resonant frequency matching vibration during clutch in. I just put in new clutch, Group N engine and transmission mounts. The base level of vibration and NVH is noticeably higher when clutching in.

The 2005 Legacy GT wagon takes a 14" blade. In the past there was a special one at Advanced Auto that was designed for OEM and worked. They seemed to have done way with that model and it looks like they include 3 adapters to match different wiper arms. I haven't tried it out yet. Any other suggestions for 2005 Legacy GT Wagon rear wiper blades that work? I saw this one at Tire Rack that said OEM Fitment.

Hi, Are the OCVs the same thing as AVCS? If so, I had them changed at around 90k. I have 160k now.