ashwinearl

Not sure if this questions we directed at me, the original poster: I have a Lightweight pulley (Grimspeed) and just put in a stock WRX single mass flywheel with new stage 1 Exedy Clutch.

I should have clarified. I've had this issue for a while. Recently, I went through an refresh where I kept the stock block as is and sent the heads off for refresh from a machine shop. We replaced all hoses, valve covers, clutch, flywheel, oil pan, pickup, gasket kit, timing...basically everything one goes through with YNANSB except for the shortblock part. I am never that close to a stall, it just has that feeling, and think that it shouldn't be like that. When it was going back together, there were several leaks that were found, and had the requisite hoses blowing off, but everything seems pretty good now. I went through an Etune process, and once we found some of the initial leaks and changed my MAF back to the OEM one for the model year car, the tuner didn't see anything out of the ordinary. For kicks I might look for an OEM BOV and just try replacing it.

I have a 2005 Legacy GT wagon. On clutching in, there is that feeling of rpms dropping low towards a stall sometimes. It hasn't stalled yet. I mentioned it to the E-tuner and he said it could be the blow off valve. This is the stock BOV. Is it worth getting a new stock BOV as a diagnostic step? I have no interest in an aftermarket BOV. Thanks

Slip on extender tips I recall a post that discussed using these slip on tips with Q300 to extend past the end of the bumper on a wagon.

Yes, agreed human error. It is good that their worm clamps are higher quality. I wasn't sure if these after market double beaded clamps or the T-bolt clamps are solutions to problems that don't exist, or if worm clamps in general are not good or have wide ranges in quality.

@rhino6303 and @chato and my tuner Cryotune all called it. Intercooler to throttle body hose. The mechanic said the clamp wasn't totally loose but not as tight as it should have been. Are T-bolt clamps recommended here over the worm clamps? I just came across these from Colonel Red Racing. How often do you check tightness? This is a Grimspeed TMIC by the way.

I've had a lot of work done on the car recently, but it's been driving well and pulling strong. Today while accelerating hard, it felt like it hit a wall. There was a bang kind of noise, but didn't sound like a hissing from a boost hose coming off. It felt like a fuel cut or hitting the rev limit. It died and I rolled to the side. Trying to restart it would die immediately. Later it would start but would hunt idle then die. AFR on the UEGO was 10 at idle then would go high then die. No codes are showing. I looked for loose hoses but didn't see anything, but this was on-the-side of the road poking around. In looking at a past post, someone suggested "overboost leading to fuel cut" and they described the bang sound and hitting wall feeling.It was caused by boost controller line being off. Any other thoughts on where to tell the mechanic to focus, like fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator? thanks.

So, my mechanic changed out my drive shaft with an OEM one. He said there was a flat spot on the original (160k miles). This oscillating hum has gotten better but is not gone. It is not as loud or as rumbly, but it definitely is still there. He took a stethoscope to the wheel bearings and didn't identify an issue (though not sure if he did it on the lift at 60+mph) What are some next trouble shooting steps? Center differential?

Sorry 'have' . It was installed just recently. I am still getting used to it, but it doesn't really bother me, and even like that 'raw' sound. The problem though is the magnification of pre-existing dash rattles and the other rattles through the car.

I have an Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Exedy Stock WRX single mass flywheel installed along with Group N Transmission and Engine mounts (kept stock Pitch mount). The deceleration noise is significant. This was just installed replacing stock clutch, dual mass flywheel, and worn out original mounts.

linerless mastic tape is thicker than electrical tape and might provide a little cushion on the post instead of basic electrical tape.

When you say new MAF, did you get OEM from Subaru, or through Amazon/other source?

I have the Accessport V2 and have had the flicker problem at WOT with stock plugs . In my current setup, I am trying these NGK 4212 plugs. The AP screen is still flickering black/white at WOT, but in looking at the logs, it looks like the data is still there. In the past, it would just stop logging.

low cost and 2005 LGT don't go together. Check out my thread, there is a link to a google sheets with my shopping list for while my engine is out. It is almost everything but the kitchen sink and new shortblock.

Thanks, I had gotten an Aisin Timing belt kit. I hadn't opened it up an not sure if he has yet either. They don't seem to be in 10105AA720 Gasket kit. I haven't looked at the gasket kit.

My mechanic is putting Humpty Dumpty back together again. I got new timing plastics and Master Gasket Kit (part Number 10105AA720) among other goodies. The old timing plastic has foam tape on the inside (see picture), but it wasn't included in the Master Gasket Kit. Does anyone have a part number or suggestion for where to get it? It it like simple weather stripping tape from home supply store? I will try to stop by the dealer's parts desk tomorrow and ask too. thanks

I am in a very similar situation. 160k smoking at idle at at WOT. His feeling was that it is turbo or valves. He didn't do a compression test either and was going be feel that it had compression. I was resigned to either going just get the heads redone or go all the way for new shortblock. Either way, the procedure was the same. He felt it easier to pull the engine to get to the heads. Eastwoods Auto Machine did the head work and it needed new Exhaust valve guides all the way around. It was about a 1.5 week turn around with shipping to them and shipping back. $772 for head work. My car is still in pieces at the shop as it is more of a side project. The problem will be the "might as well" things to do while the engine is out. All my hoses were shot and hardened, the clutch is old., Throttle body is easy to redo now vs later, turbo was suspect so changing that to be safe, new E tune, oil pan, oil pickup, Timing belt, timing cover plastics all cracked, etc..my parts costs skyrocketed. Also this is not a fast process, at least not the way we are doing it. At the moment, I am not doing the short block and can't know that after putting it all back together, there isn't a ringland issue. Another guy on here had a very similar situation and he did the heads only find ringland issue later. I don't think they are leading you astray. If anything they are like my mechanic who feels that the block is still in good shape and trying to save me money and talking me out of new shortblock. My oil consumption has always seemed high too. I think it is just a fact of these engines/ and cars. Turbos take a beating, valve issues, worn exhaust valve guides are common, ringlands are a notorious issue with EJ257s.

I have been going back and forth on this in my mind a lot. I am an integral part of the process and in charge of researching and making decision on purchase of the parts. I've learned quite a bit about how to navigate the parts diagrams, the ins/outs of oil pans and windage trays, restrictor pill sizes for VF52s, and the differences in EJ motors. Where I worry myself, is they might not know all the quirky issues of turbo Subaru's that I armchair mechanic take notes on and I'd hope a dedicated performance shop would know, like using ARP engine studs, and using Torx T50+ and not Torx T50 on flywheel bolts. It's sort of a side project at their shop and they are excited when I bring in new performance parts like a JMP VF52 and Killer B oil pickup. But if I have a barometric pressure sensor issue we'll be in trouble. I was clueless of the "might as well" parts costs exploding. Might as well do the clutch while it is out, might as well get the full silicone hose kit replacement, might as well replace the timing plastics, might as well replace the hardened vacuum line hoses, the turbo might be suspect, might as well get that VF52 I've always wanted (oh need a tune too..), oil pan is rusted, might as well replace the pickup while in there, Up pipe is broken at the weld, might as well get the Group N engine/transmission mounts, We are not going to do the full short block to keep costs down. But I am worried about having to go through this again in 30k. Heads are back from Eastwoods, all the parts I've ordered are in. So we'll see how fast they progress. The hose replacement is going to be tedious.

I saw a FB post sayin that this tool worked for a stubborn Subaru rear wheel bearing where the traditional slide puller failed.

Oh no!. I need to do this. I've had the chirping and talking to me sounds for years but now the heat isn't coming on when it should.

My heads are on their way back from Eastwoods Auto Machine Within a day of them receiving the package, they performed an initial assessment. They indicated they were in good shape and considered rebuild able. On first inspection, the exhaust valve guides on both heads needed replacement. I gave my authorization to proceed. If anything else came up major they would call. It took about a week from them receiving them for completion. I missed the Friday pickup, so they will be on their way Monday. The total cost was $772.48 This includes general recondition of 2 heads, new exhaust valve guides, adjust valve clearance, materials supplies, shipping. In the meantime I have been ordering everything under the sun, with the exception of the short block. I am almost crossing that threshold, as I don't want to have go through this again if a ringland goes in 30k. For all those planning on this, I was not prepared for all the small, and big, things that were either 1) broken and need to be fixed, and 2) 'Might as well' do it now while the engine is out. In typical fashion, I'd research and agonize over a purchase only in the end to say f** it and just get it. "Luxuries" over the basics include up pipe, turbo, clutch, new hoses (lots and $$), ARP engine studs, new e-tune, oil pan, windage tray... Uppipe with Gaskets $220.00 Downpipe/Turbo gasket 17.00 Exedy OEM Single Mass Flywheel $138.71 Exedy Stage 1 Clutch kit $523.43 EXE-15804 Tranquil TSK3 $175.00 Single Mass Flywheel Bolts $1.75 8 bolts ARP EJ25 DOHC Studs $255.00 ARP-260-4701 Engine Mounts x2 $121.50 Group N Transmission Mount $74.12 Group N Hose (PCV) $31.20 99071AC020 Vacuum Hose $5.73 99071AC320 Vacuum Hose $3.35 99071AC670 Vacuum Hose $1.41 807403542 hose $6.45 99071AC720 brake booster to manifold $20.66 11861AA030 breather to PCV pipe $5.73 99071AC240 valve cover breather to PCV pipe $7.66 99071AC010 Drivers side valve cover breather. $8.36 99071AC230 hose $6.39 99071AC220 25' 0.1250"SILICONE VACUUM HOSE $17.00 VB-012 Black 25' 0.3750" SILICONE VACUUM HOSE $58.50 VB-038 Black Turbo oil return hose $8.68 807515712 PIPE-OIL COOLER $26.95 21328AA011 COVER-BELT,FRONT $28.69 13570AA045 COVER-BELT NO.1,RIGHT $19.96 13572AA092 COVER-BELT NO.2,RIGHT $25.75 13573AA131 COVER-BELT NO.1,LEFT $21.40 13574AA094 COVER-BELT NO.2,LEFT $21.40 13575AA130 Cylinder head Half Moon $23.64 11051AA070 turbo inlet $91.46 14459AA340 OEM Gasket and Seal kit $274.66 10105AA720 "OEM 10mm oil pump combo $154.95 15010AA300 Oil Pump Bolt 800706500x7 Oil Pump Seal 10991AA000 X1 Crank Seal" 806733030 X1" Spark Plugs $51.36 "NGK 4212 JMP Modified VF52 $800.00 Timing Belt Kit $275.00 Aisin TKF-004 Thermostat $24.17 21210AA030 2006 Oil pan $114.97 11109AA151 2006 Dipstick $31.00 11140AA150 "Killer B oil pickup Killer B windage tray" $257.00 EJ25 Autobahn88 hose/clamp kit $390.41 Estimates on labor services still to come Machine Shop $772 Cryotune (if I go new block) break-in tune $180 Cryotune stage 3 stock fuel $315 Mechanic labor ??? placeholder $1500 if new short block, Most likely 2018 STi Type R/A $1800+ shipping estimate

sadface

This shows oil pan/accessory replacement on an R-STI build He suggests that when changing to 2006 model oil pan that dipstick, dipstick guide, and baffle are needed together.

When switching to a 2006 Pan, is the Dipstick guide also required? The reason I ask, is I saw a package deal from a vendor that was a hybrid of a 2006 Pan/Dipstick, and the Killer B Baffle/Pickup. Their package did not include the Dipstick guide.

Mr. Eastwood called me today. He said they did an initial clean on them and cursory inspection. They look like good rebuildable heads and that exhaust guides will need replacement. They are taking them apart now and will let me know any more requirements.