ashwinearl

In searching back through old threads, I'm seeing conflicting information regarding using aftermarket lowering springs on KYB Excel-G. My plan is to keep my existing lowering springs and replace the Konis with KYB Excel-Gs. I have King lowering springs in front (KSFL-42) and Epic rear springs with Saggy butt spacer. I broke a front Epic spring so switched to Kings. I am also intrigued by what @Holla did with aftermarket springs in front but stock springs in the rear on the KYB Excel-Gs. Thanks.

Can I get more info on this setup and what else you have used? Are the KYB Excel G's considered the stock replacement or an upgrade? I've got King lower springs with Koni inserts on front and Konis with Epic springs rear. I have never been really happy with the Konis with stock or aftermarket.

I have wagon with Koni's and Eibach/Epics that I found used. A front spring broke and got a pair of Kings for the front. Previous to the Epics, I had stock springs on the Konis. I've blown two Konis so far, so definitely look for any excess oil seepage. Their warranty lets you order for 1/2 price and then after return and authorization, they supposedly give your money back. I've never been totally pleased with the Konis. With stock springs, it just felt like the worst of both worlds, harsh and wallowy at the same time. With the Epics, it still feels harsh to me, but my roads are crap. My only frame of reference is a 1998 Legacy wagon that I put WRX sway bars on,H&R springs, and fresh KYBs. That setup has a great combination of feeling planted but not as harsh as the Konis, to me. The endless money throwing at the car has me considering Bilsteins with Spec B top hats now. I also have Whiteline lower control arm bushings which also seem to contribute to the harshness. I am considering getting the Mevotech aluminum arms with the rubber bushings.

I am on my second blown Koni insert over 4 years on my wagon. These are with Eibach springs rear. One front spring broke and were replaced with King Wagon springs. Is this typical? I filled out the Koni warranty on my first one, but never really checked whether I got money back on my credit card.

Saw this article comes across my news feed about Subaru Clutch forks cracking

156k miles on car. I do not know the age or type of clutch. I bought it used at 70k and have not changed anything on it. Someone commented that it seemed like it was stiffer what a stock one felt like. It chatters a little when cold, but goes away after a bit.

2005 LGT Wagon 5MT with Kartboy short shifter and bushing combo. They have been installed almost 4 years. Their normal functioning required slightly more effort than stock, but it wasn't too bad. Recently, it is getting harder/notchier to shift into gears. It takes significantly more effort to get the shifter into a gear. My wife rarely drives the car, but the last time she tried, she couldn't get it in first. I make more of an effort to make sure the clutch is fully pressed in lately too. In searching, I came across this thread with similar issue. This thread pointed out a part to inspect called "Joint Complete-Gear Shift" part number 35046AG000 This Turn In Concepts bushing set and this complete assembly from Turn in also came up in research. Has anyone else had similar problem and able to correct it by replacing this part with OEM or with the TIC 5MT lever pivot bushings? The past post also suggested looking at the adjustment of the clutch pedal.

Can give some more details on the "Blend Door Actuator"? I am having a similar issue with the system blowing cold when it should be warm, and just getting confused. Thanks.

I have an Earthquake impact gun that I tried. I didn't have the air at highest pressure though. I think the head on the Allen socket isn't the best quality and might not be fitting tight enough. It just seemed to be rounding out the hole Also my Allen socket is 3/8" and my breaker bar is 1/2" so there was the allen socket, a small extension to miss the heat shield on the turbo, and an adapter from 3/8" to 1/2" then the breaker bar. I think all those pieces where flexing and rotating and not getting the torque to the cap bolt. Also I need to grind the head of the Allen socket totally flat so it sits in the pocket nicer. I have a nice 2x72 belt grinder.

I am using the Cubby Pod. The piece is in an L-shape. I installed it backwards at first with the lower L facing back. It is supposed to face forward. I also broke one of the tabs that the Torx screws go into on the cubby.

I have the Cobb catted downpipe. The plug for an aftermarket wideband sensor is 10mm allen head cap bolt that is flush with the pipe. http://www.subispeed.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/473x473/85e4522595efc69f496374d01ef2bf13/5/2/524202-2.jpg I'm worried about rounding out the inside of that allen head.

Is this typical? I am putting in a boost gauge and tapping into the hose at the front at the manifold by the round foam thing. The original hose from the foam piece to the manifold nipple broke while I was manipulating it. It was rock hard and brittle. 155k miles on a 2005 LGT wagon. I'm wondering what other pieces are hard/brittle. Is this when people switch all the lines over to silicon vacuum lines?

I'm in process of installing a wide band air fuel ratio and mechanical boost gauge in my 2005 Legacy GT Wagon. I wanted to share some lessons learned in routing the tubing and cable harness into from the engine bay into the vehicle. *Pictures posted using tag%20with%20IMGUR%20hosting.%20Sometimes%20they%20do%20not%20show%20up%20in%20the%20post* In my car there are two rubber grommets behind the intercooler. I removed my Grimspeed TMIC and the grommet on the passenger side is visible. After the fact, I didn't realize that there is a similar grommet on the driver's side that is behind some of that felt covering on the firewall. https://i.imgur.com/1kvm1VU.jpg' alt='1kvm1VU.jpg'> I ended up using the grommet closer to the passenger side. There is some thick padding just behind it. I used a knife, razor blade to cut into it and then pulled some out with needle nose pliers. As the linked post stated, pushing a coat hanger through this hole in the firewall and towards the driver's side is the ticket. At first, I pushed a straightened coat hanger and was able to see it come out by the accelerator. I then taped my wideband cable to the remaining hanger with the intention of pulling the cable through. The coat hanger just pulled out from the tape. I tried again, this time taping the wideband cable and boost line to the coat hanger and pushing it through. To my utter joy, both appeared down by the footwell near the accelerator I was doing a cubby install. The next step was getting the boost line and wide band cable up into the cubby. Using a flexible grabber tool, I pushed it down from the cubby into the footwell. then grabbed the cable and pulled it through. I'm not done yet, and shouldn't pat myself on the back. But I wanted to get this on here to help others who struggle with DIY like myself. It has taken me days literally to get to this point. Just going slow, stopping, thinking, trying, failing... I still need to do the wiring using 'add a circuits'. I still will need some professional help, as I can't get the plug off my Cobb downpipe to install the sensor. It is a 10mm hex head, and with my luck, I'm just going to end up stripping the head.

I did mine with plastidip flat black. It came out ok and is relatively durable.

When one customizes an exhaust for a wagon, how is it usually done? Do you pick a muffler can and reuse the stock components? like the catback mid pipe and Y pipe? If the tips are not adjustable, can they still fit a wagon to minimize drone? I saw some JDM ones that had adjustable tips for fine tuning fitment.

When you did the boost leak test, and took the oil cap off, did you have any other vacuum hoses clamped closed? I have never tried this type of boost tester, because I don't know if and what the exact lines are that need to be clamped. I just recall seeming here in a thread that someone said you'd spray oil out your cap if you did a boost test without the right hoses clamped.

Some follow up. I grabbed an STP Air filter from Auto Zone SA9997. The STP and Purolator look almost alike. They have similar number of pleats and have a foam outer border. The big difference between the two was the consistency of the thickness of the foam outer border. The STP foam boarder was was a consistent thickness on all edges. the Purolater was thinner on the side edges and thicker on the top. It might have been a manufacturing problem, but it definitely was not uniform. I put the STP in and the box did feel slightly harder to close the clips on. There is less hissing noise with the STP.

Hi all, 2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT 155k I'm seeing smoke in the rear view mirror under hard acceleration sometimes. Typically in third gear with a hard acceleration, stomp. I can't tell a specific color. What are the recommended diagnostics to perform? Compression Test Leak Down Test block tester to test for head gasket leak Inspect turbo seal I know I have a small oil leak from what I think is the Oil cooler gasket Here is my mod list: Cobb AP V2 with Tuning Alliance Custom E tune Cobb Catless Up Pipe Cobb Catted Downpipe Cobb EBCS JMP Custom VF 40* (probably 40k miles on it) Grimspeed TMIC DW65c Fuel Pump Reference FPR to BOV, capped cyl 4 I want to get a health check anyway before the next step in mods. I'm going to post another thread specific to brainstorming what next. Thanks.

Any more experiences on this issue? Is the spark plug model discussed here the way to go? Searches showed discussion about a capacitor placed between two pins on the OBD? I haven't tried logging for awhile, and just tried after making an air filter change. My Accesport V2 cuts out under any significant boost. My regular mechanic had changed my plugs recently and a coil pack to address some stumbling a few months ago. I imagine he picked the plugs indicated by Subaru OEM and not these new ones suggested here.

2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT How often do you change your PCV? Do you wait until some symptom pops up, or just replace it at a fixed mileage? I did mine 4 years ago. Just for peace of mind, I am thinking of doing it again.

The filter I got was: A35592 SPEC DATA Height 1.30 Length 8.61 Width 8.62 Type of Filter Panel Air No, I am not sure about putting the box back together. Getting the bottom tab in the correct spot is tricky. When you do this procedure, do you disconnect the main air hose at the box and at the turbo inlet and rotate it out of the way? Do you remove or slightly move over anything else, like the power steering reservoir? Any other tricks to ensure it goes together correctly? There isn't a rubber gasket around the edge of the Purolator one. I thought the stock one had a gasket for better sealing.

Public service announcement that Purolator One air filters from the auto parts store do not fit well into the stock air box. I am hearing air hissing on acceleration. I'm assuming this is a bad thing and will go back to OEM or considering an AEM dry filter from research here.

2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5 MT with: • Whiteline steering rack bushings • Cusco Steering Rack Brace • STI Steering U-Joint Knuckle also replaced steering pump with Napa rebuilt It's time to replace the weeping steering rack. What is the current consensus for replacement. My local mechanic will be doing the work, and they are a basic shop not versed in all the minutiae of LGT and mods. Is the 2015 STI with cutting the tie rods shorter the direction most go? Is there a reputable re-manufactured brand available. Or just stay stock, stay happy?

One I haven't seen mentioned a whole lot is Pennzoil Euro Platinum 0W40. I've only been able to find it online through Walmart. Rarely have I seen it in the store. It has Porsche, Audi, VW, and Mercedes Benz certifications. Two crude metrics for me are butt dyno and oil consumption. It feels almost as smooth as Amsoil and the smoothness lasts as long. All oils feels smooth initially, but most others start to feel rough in a short time. OCI 3000-5000 miles. I have not sent away for any oil analysis. Oil consumption is always there with my 2005 Legacy GT wagon with 150k miles on original engine. It is noticeably worse with some other oils like Rotella. The best has been Amsoil, and this is as good. There looks to be a 5W40 through Amazon, but I have only used the 0W40 so far.

I've got a dilemma. Epic springs on Koni Yellows. One front spring has broken. I am assuming that I need to change out at least the front pair together. Any suggestions for a pair of fronts that will mate ok with the remaining Epics on the rear?