08SpecB_DE

If it's the mounts, the alignment will not show anything. If you're trying to rectify an issue it's best to explain to the shop while you're there. Dont go in for an alignment expecting them to tell you where the noise is coming from. If it's the struts, you're going to need an alignment anyways.

Sounds like the struts/mounts or ball joints.

I recently bought a used GS intercooler and measured the 3 hoses that came with it: 1.5" (2) 2 3/8- 2 1/2" (2) 3 1/8" (2) I didn't get precise measurements but they are close.

What he said. I would like to buy these as well for all the intercooler plumbing.

Tax free shopping in DE Bad traffic to me is taking an extra 5-10 minutes to get home. I dont see a ton of LGT's but there are plenty of modified Subarus.

I thought it was my foot bumping into the obd connector! I do know it gets fuzzy with the slightest tap.

The Subarus I've rebuilt got Royal Purple break-in oil. Once primed, I'd let them run for 20-30 mins at idle only. Then, drain and refill again with the break in oil. Change at 500 miles and 1,500 miles. Dyno oil at the 1,500 mark for 3k then after, synthetic can be used.

Cut spark and fuel then turn the motor over several times. You will hear the pressure build up the more you crank it.

My guess is a ground wire somewhere. Did you try applying your own ground to 2 and 3 to see if the car would start? I cant access any wiring diagrams but they must be tied together somehow.

German cars are good for the first 50-60k miles. They are the best lease cars because you can look like you have money, but get rid of them before they cost way too much.

44k goes into the fuel tank. Anyone can purchase a fuel injection cleaning kit, Amazon probably has a ton of them. You will need to hook up air so a compressor that's capable of maintaining a pressure higher than idle fuel psi is required.

A pressure test will show a leak. If I had to guess, I'd say it probably has a loose clamp somewhere.

https://store.snapon.com/Double-Swivel-Universal-Socket-Spark-Plug-Universal-Double-Swivel-5-8-6-Point-P642284.aspx No rubber that pulls out, no magnet that may or may not work, no need for extra sockets. This socket should be in every DIY Subaru owners toolbox and every Subaru tech's toolbox. I'm a big fan of no fuss and quickness. This is the only spark plug socket you need for Subarus. I have 2 of these and may put my extra one up for sale on here in the next couple of weeks.

I posted that tip 3 days ago

Blend door is just a different name for air mix actuator. Is it dual climate control (can adjust temp for driver and passenger)? It's either an actuator or low on freon. If you know ALL actuators are working, definitely going to be refrigerant.

Make sure all fuses are good. If they are, try a different scan tool. Launch is a very well known brand as well as Autel and Innova. They should have lower end scanners that will read your car. Keep in mind, most professional scanners are $2k+ so a $300 scanner may sound expensive, but in reality it's on the lower end.

@Dave- Slide some cut vacuum hose over the line inside the car to prevent it from eventually rubbing through.

I haven't seen an aftermarket cat last more than 2 years on any vehicle with most failing in the first year. OEM is the way to go for cats and o2/af sensors.

Can you watch live data? What are your o2's doing while driving down the road and at idle?

Speaking of led lights, my boss had the shop converted over to all leds a couple months ago. We went from cave like to (insert make-up store) brightness. It made such a huge difference and we have to be the brightest shop in Delaware. I always compare it to those stores like Sephora because once you see lighting coming out of a store like that, you don't forget it lol Not a home improvement but oh well.

I'm intrigued. My slave is starting to seep so I might do this mod with a new one.

Funny you should ask. I tried doing a 2015 today and could not enter the maintenance mode, but I have been able to do earlier models. My scanner is due for software update but it costs 1k.

If it were my car, I would use a scan tool. Do it manually at your own risk.

Good luck. Count the turns of the outer tie-rods as they come off too. That will help keep the alignment somewhat in order but you will need to get it aligned when you're all said and done.

If you want to do it once, pay the extra and get the Maval rack. It doesn't hurt to replace the outer tie-rods if they aren't fairly new. Make sure you keep the steering wheel locked straight when you disconnect the steering shaft. You'll also want to make sure the rack is clocked straight when you put it in or it could set the airbag and/or abs light.