08SpecB_DE

Shop. Have them evacuate the system, pull a vacuum, check for leaks and then refill. If they say the system was full, it may be time to replace the expansion valve and desiccant bag.

You can go back to a post I made here somewhere stating I wouldn't buy a newer Subaru. I had an Impreza for a day while they did my airbag and thought it was very cheap and not refined. Subaru engines have stayed the same for the most part and due to design, are more prone to certain issues. If you're losing coolant, get it figured out. I dont buy the evaporation mumbo jumbo. I have not come across a newer gen with coolant consumption issues but if someone in the Delaware area has this concern, I will gladly offer to check it out for them. All cars leak oil and none more than Cadillac or BMW. I dont think anyone is sweeping your concerns under the rug but I'd like to see some resolution. Has everyone exhausted all their options or do they just go to the dealer under warranty and dealer says no issues found? If there's a 2k post thread about disappearing coolant, someone has to have found the problem or no?

All cars have problems. Some problems are notorious for specific makes or models. You can go on any car forum and find the top 5 most common issues, so what exactly is your point? Perhaps you have an image painted in your head that Subaru is supposed to be perfect?

I wouldn't drive a Durango if you bought it for me, that's coming from a Mopar family. They look nice and have cool features but the quality is not there, same goes for Chevy. Get the 4-runner and enjoy life with routine maintenance.

Plenty of awd cars out there but when the snow hits, you might regret getting rid of it. 200k on any car is not desirable. I say drive it until it dies and save up in the mean time.

Be assertive and dont take no for an answer. Some dealers will submit when they realize you are serious and aren't leaving until the issue is fixed. This is of course if they say they will not cover it.

Schaefers canal house or Chesapeake Inn. Thank me later

Can you post a video of the noise? Struts do not have to leak for them to make noise and rarely will there be any movement in the shaft unless the mount was separated.

If it's the mounts, the alignment will not show anything. If you're trying to rectify an issue it's best to explain to the shop while you're there. Dont go in for an alignment expecting them to tell you where the noise is coming from. If it's the struts, you're going to need an alignment anyways.

Sounds like the struts/mounts or ball joints.

I recently bought a used GS intercooler and measured the 3 hoses that came with it: 1.5" (2) 2 3/8- 2 1/2" (2) 3 1/8" (2) I didn't get precise measurements but they are close.

What he said. I would like to buy these as well for all the intercooler plumbing.

Tax free shopping in DE Bad traffic to me is taking an extra 5-10 minutes to get home. I dont see a ton of LGT's but there are plenty of modified Subarus.

I thought it was my foot bumping into the obd connector! I do know it gets fuzzy with the slightest tap.

The Subarus I've rebuilt got Royal Purple break-in oil. Once primed, I'd let them run for 20-30 mins at idle only. Then, drain and refill again with the break in oil. Change at 500 miles and 1,500 miles. Dyno oil at the 1,500 mark for 3k then after, synthetic can be used.

Cut spark and fuel then turn the motor over several times. You will hear the pressure build up the more you crank it.

My guess is a ground wire somewhere. Did you try applying your own ground to 2 and 3 to see if the car would start? I cant access any wiring diagrams but they must be tied together somehow.

German cars are good for the first 50-60k miles. They are the best lease cars because you can look like you have money, but get rid of them before they cost way too much.

44k goes into the fuel tank. Anyone can purchase a fuel injection cleaning kit, Amazon probably has a ton of them. You will need to hook up air so a compressor that's capable of maintaining a pressure higher than idle fuel psi is required.

A pressure test will show a leak. If I had to guess, I'd say it probably has a loose clamp somewhere.

https://store.snapon.com/Double-Swivel-Universal-Socket-Spark-Plug-Universal-Double-Swivel-5-8-6-Point-P642284.aspx No rubber that pulls out, no magnet that may or may not work, no need for extra sockets. This socket should be in every DIY Subaru owners toolbox and every Subaru tech's toolbox. I'm a big fan of no fuss and quickness. This is the only spark plug socket you need for Subarus. I have 2 of these and may put my extra one up for sale on here in the next couple of weeks.

I posted that tip 3 days ago

Blend door is just a different name for air mix actuator. Is it dual climate control (can adjust temp for driver and passenger)? It's either an actuator or low on freon. If you know ALL actuators are working, definitely going to be refrigerant.

Make sure all fuses are good. If they are, try a different scan tool. Launch is a very well known brand as well as Autel and Innova. They should have lower end scanners that will read your car. Keep in mind, most professional scanners are $2k+ so a $300 scanner may sound expensive, but in reality it's on the lower end.

@Dave- Slide some cut vacuum hose over the line inside the car to prevent it from eventually rubbing through.