socalsleeper

The Lexus community has a bad sticky dash problem too, here is one fix. I would personally not do this in the car, but if you can get past that part it seems like a good process from what I have seen so far. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4GL5Sv_CNY

Eastwood has some interior paints from SEM worth looking at.

There are plastic/interior specific paints on the market. **DISCLAIMER**The next statement is just a guess DO NOT take this as an invitation to do this to your car's dash. If you wanted to refinish your dash you would need to remove the surface coating with acetone, or goo-gone. Prep the surface with an adhesion promoter, and finally the color coat. If you have a trashed dash lying around this might be a good experiment to try. Worst case scenario you cover it up with some flocking, that hides most surface defects ok.

Still waiting on that rear lower bench...

There is no significant benefit to the 2011 steering rack. The one you want is the 2015 model for the better ratio. I saw your video on youtube and you mentioned the hubs, the fronts will bolt in and you will have to use the STI struts, the rear is a no go, will not fit. You can adapt the brakes but not the hub.

I think the bigger question is what is the penalty for defeating emissions devices. That will be the ultimate decider. If I was a tuner I would not risk my family's well being so someone else can avoid a check engine light. If there is no real consequences then opensource tuning might have a new renaissance. This is all in response to the EPA and the clean air act fiasco that is going on now.

Bypassing an emissions device is illegal, so that is easy to see where they are getting pressure from, the law. What makes it more interesting is that every state and often county has wildly different emissions standards so the gray area is massive.

In a word no, your fuel injectors should not just wiggle about. The o-rings should be a snug fit, not gorilla tight but not just wiggle about either. New o-rings are not expensive, it is just a hassle to mess with the hold down brackets. Also make sure everything is tight you might have a loose bracket giving you some extra slack. Those engine codes are for misfires on cylinders 2 and 3. Start with new o-rings take if from there.

We are all going to have to face the fact that changes are happening. Full electrification is not a Jetsons future anymore it is just a few years away. Gas engines will eventually only be used in heavy vehicles (i.e. semi trucks) and motorsports. For a long time motorsports has had a no rules anything goes stance when it comes to emissions, that will likely change as well. As long as we as enthusiast keep those restrictions reasonable then it might not kill the aftermarket. But we can't leave it to some guy behind a desk looking at a spreadsheet, this is probably the most important time in the history of motorsports since it is the first time is its history that the basic means of powering the vehicles is about to change. Keep your eyes open guys if we fall asleep on this it can totally kill the aftermarket.

Anyone play Apex, or Warzone. My gamer tag is WILDMEX if anyone ever wants run a few rounds. I'm by no means a pro-gamer, but I'm not total trash either.

Thanks for the suggestion, I run IOS, but I am sure there is something similar in the app store for me. Now I just need a responsible adult to supervise me, since I can't be trusted to keep the ground below me and the sky above.

I was smiling the whole time, but yeah it was less than pleasant. I came around a bend (way too fast) and there was a double drop with no time to set myself back on the bike. I did a sweet front flip into said named bush.

I just jumped on my bike again in a while. Currently riding a Specialized Hardrock, but I had a Giant hardtail, and full suspension I was rather fond of. I would love to find some trails to ride since I am new to the area, but I also need a riding buddy because nothing says bad idea like going down a new trail alone and ending up upside down in a thorny bush still clipped into your pedals, (ask me how I know).

I am working this exact same project right now, I should be getting the pins in the mail later today. I just need to order a new airbag unit for the 2008+ wheel. That white plug under the dash has empty slots for wires, but if you have some wires jammed in there then you have other issues to deal with. Side note the terminals for this mod are only a few bucks, I got new connectors and extra pins for about $14, and $5 of that was shipping.... All you need is a crimper some heat shrink and wire cutters to do this update. Although I might have to redo this later, my wheel has the bluetooth controls and the Sport sharp button, to make this work you need the 2011+ clock spring, which means reverting back to the original connector.

BTW that side shot is very very nice!!! Love the color, I would love to see it in person in some daylight. I'm sure it will pop!

WOW Very crusty indeed!!! You have the clutch style LSD, or the rock grinder type in there?

Yeah definitely, those old speakers are far from top quality. I have my car wired for 7 channels. 4 channels up front for the component speakers active cross over setup. 2 channels for the rear coaxial speakers, and the last channel for the subwoofer. I am thinking about running an audiocontrol DM 810 signal processor. I haven't decided on the power amps yet. I have a 12" JL W3 I need to have re-coned, but I might switch to a pair of 8" Sundown Audio subs for the low end.

Let me know what you think of those Hertz speakers. I am going to upgrade my set up sooner than later.

There are a number of reasons why folks swap to the 6 speed transmission, power capacity, the electronically adjustable center diff etc., but be forewarned this is a costly endeavor running around $3500+. It is a bolt in swap, but it takes more than just the transmission. You will need the shifter assy, a DCCD controller, hybrid rear axels, new pull type clutch, slave cylinder , matching differential, drive shaft the stock one is too long for a MT Legacy. If all you want is some better traction always start with better tires. If you want to reduce wheel spin, you can get an LSD for the stock R160. If you are putting down 400+ ft-lbs of torque and your 5 speed is about to pop any day then you should consider a 6 speed. Lastly you have $$$ in your pocket and you don't know what to do with it... Then sure have at it. There is a lot of information here on the subject, but you need to be way more specific on your goals, and why you think this is a good idea before people can help. I will be swapping to a 6speed, but I am going full ham on my car knowing that it is not a good financial investment if resale matters.

I’m sure the thread is still in the sever but I have not seen it pop up in a long time, is all I’m saying. Newer users might have never seen it.

Thats the one quick search gave me this image.

Bumping this thread, I still update the first post with new parts, sold parts etc. I also add pictures so take a look.

Is anyone still running the "Big Kahuna" filter on their Legacy anymore? If memory serves me right that was an RX8 filter, this was larger but had the same specs from a bypass valve, and micron filtering specification. I think you gained a little bit of oil capacity, nothing extreme, maybe 1/2 a quart at best... On the plus side more surface area of the filter would give you more life when strictly talking about removing debris from the oil. This bit of knowledge may have been lost in the void.

I am hoping I don't have to get down to bare steel, I have a very light layer left on the surface after getting at it with the heat gun and a putty knife. Mind you I am only doing about 1/3 of the wheel well. I will order some new seam sealer and some epoxy based paint to finish this up, but for now I am just glad to have the goop off.

I forgot to mention I removed the transmission cross member cleaned it and painted it. Installed the Group-N 6 speed mount. I also removed the 5 speed shift linkage while I was under there. Oh and I scraped most of the rubberized goop on 1/2 of the front wheel wells, that sucks... I'll post some pics later.