socalsleeper

With all these cars getting up in mileage sounds like there is a need for these things to have the transmission bearings replaced. I wish I could do this for the community but I don’t have the space to take on something like this.

My LGT did have the little tube cooler, but it is placed where there is no air flow. I could have just moved it, but again I am kind of going full ham here... I have the Perrin lock down kit we’ll see how this feels. It will take a while to get used to all the changes with the new steering rack new brakes and full suspension upgrades. I have not driven this car in a long time.

Maybe we are luck with the Legacy but for a relatively small investment I ensure that I don’t have problems is worth it to me.

Getting air moving can only help, I plan on running a flat panel up front with a naca duct to the cooler, but something very similar can be done for an air intake.

This car is not my daily beater, and I 100% plan on putting this on the track. This will still be a street car but I don’t need it to get to work so I can go full ham. Secondly most Subarus don’t have p/s coolers and when pushed people do have issues with the pump and rack seals, considering I just dropped 7 bills on a new 2015 rack I don’t want to buy another over being cheap.

I mounted my power steering cooler bracket recently. Got the lines made up, just need to get one adapter fitted, and a 180 deg fitting ordered to call this done. Oh and I need to paint the bracket too.

So I have been putting some time in the garage trying to get this power steering cooler all done, almost there. I got the bracket bent up, holes drilled into the chassis where it is going to mount and even added some rivnuts. My metal brake worked OK-ish. It gave me some decent bents, but the 16g and the length of material was about as much as this dinky thing can handle. Where it did not go so well was I tried to add a small flange, there was not enough material to hold down properly so I had to use a hammer to get it to lay down nicely. Bad part is it now has some hammer marks, ugh. No problem I can add a thin layer of body filler make it nice and smooth, before I paint it. Can't leave raw steel like that anyways. Still need to do some trimming, and I need to make a small support bracket to keep it from rocking left to right. Next is the fender liner, I got the template lined up and began cutting, this is a brand new liner so there was some hesitation, but full-send right... I got the vent lined up where it is going to go. I just need to get some foam insulation tape before I can rivet this guy in permanently. I also got the lines made up, but how I routed them they are very inconspicuous, so the picture did not make much sense. As for the connection coming from the P/S rack to the cooler that is beefy line material wise so to get my AN adapter I have to do some light sanding to get the olive to fit. I'll give this a try and if there is any sign of the material getting too thin I'll get a new line and use a barb adapter. But these lines have a lot of meat and I am taking off only about .3mm of material overall

Yup these always fly, if your not ready on the spot you will miss them.

Yeah the metal brake has been a bit of a pain, also because I don't want to make too much noise since I live in an apartment community right now. Trying stay under the radar to some extent... It would be easier, and much louder if I busted out the angle grinder and went to town. I got the brake 95% done last night I just need to make two small notches for some clearance I noticed when I was bolting it up last night. but I managed to get my first bend on a small bit of scrap 16 gauge, worked great decent bend radius. I think the bracket will come out nicely should have it done this evening. Thanks for the info on the AN lines. My immediate goal is just the return side, I am sure I will eventually make AN lines to and from the PS pump sooner than later. I have a lonnggg list of things to do, so I will prob move on to something else. Might be getting some fuel lines mocked up??? I really want to get the brakes sorted out. Still looking for some brembos to pop up that are not totally wrecked for $1000+

Yup I trip over them all the time. Now here is another option, I can install new boots on these for some one else. I was an ASE certified dealer technician in the past, I just happen to have a desk job now but I still have all my tools. I rebuilt my fronts recently as part of my build. I did not do the rears because I did not see the need for my car since I will be going 6 speed.

Still got parts kicking around

First thing to clear up is what you mean my rebuild, I think what most of us are talking about is removing an old boot and installing a new boot with fresh grease. If there is any significant wear on the inside parts the axel is no good. Typically an axel only starts to wear when they loose the grease (ie. torn boot) as long as it is still sealed they tend to last many many miles, but obviously not forever. Rear axles don't have the same range of motion and thus don't fail as often as the front do which have to articulate much more when turning. Lastly, if you find someone trying to regrind any parts don't touch it, the metal surfaces go through a hardening process, any grinding of this layer will only lead to premature failure of the part. I have heard of rebuilds that get a used part and install new rollers inside the original housing, but I don't think these are even sold my major retailers anymore.

I have been making progress, but again slower that I would like on the steering system. This is the last part to call this "done" so I have been trying to focus on this before I get distracted by some other shinny object. So here is what I am up to. I have decided to add a 10 row cooler in the passenger side fender well. I got the cooler and all of the shinny bits to make my own -6an lines. Before anyone comments on power steering requiring high pressure fittings this is on the return side (low pressure) so AN lines are way over kill. Stock this has regular rubber lines with hose clamps. I got a 3/8 to -6AN adapter that will be place on the line that feeds the reservoir, this instead will go down to the cooler and back up to the reservoir. The only hang up on this is the line is 10mm versus the 9.5mm OD of a 3/8 line. I think I might be able to make this work, if not I have a barb to AN adapter as plan B. Right now I'm in the process of making the mounting bracket. This will be made from 16 gauge steel very simple design. I do plan on eventually adding some dimples to give it some more rigidity plus they do pretty look cool . Which brings me to my current detour, to make this bracket I needed a way to put the bends in the panel so I am making a DIY metal brake that you see people make on youtube. Not hard, but not easy if you don't have a band saw and welder on hand which I don't... But this is basically done, just cleaning it up and giving it a coat of paint to keep it from rusting. I should have the panel done in a couple of days, just have to drill some holes and pop a few rivnuts in to the frame rail. The hot air will exit in front of the wheel via that vent I shared previously, and I do have a plan for the incoming cool air charge, but that is much later down the line via a custom duct/shroud. For now I want to get the mounting and the pluming all done.

I saw that you ordered some from rock auto in your other post, but I have stock axle I was trying to get rid of and I’m local to you. I’m also in NOVA.

I have some rear axels I don't need. They have about 125K with the stock boots no clunks or funny noises when I pulled them, a grease/boot refresh would be needed. Let me know if you're interested. I don't expect much for them, but tossing them in the trash seems like a waste.

There are a few ways to go about this. First is your general hot tank, make sure you tell them it is aluminum up front this will save you some hassle since some of the chemicals they use will eat up the aluminum. This will give you a “clean” block but might not be especially attractive, this won’t get rid of and surface corrosion it will just be degreased. Second there is having it blasted, this is not that expensive since you can tell them this will not be used any more and they don’t have to mask off the matting surfaces. This is good for most people. Lastly there is vapor blasting, this my friend is hands down the nicest finish. It will give you the fresh new aluminum look, might take some leg work to find a place that will do it but worth it if you want something for your home. The engine has to be degreased prior to any blasting method. Hope this helps.

I am on the look out for Spec B parts, mostly rear axels. I know you are not parting out, but there are a few people that are always looking for unique parts for STI swaps into a Legacy.

Teaser for what I have coming up soon.

That’s the one. I guess there was a big discount for technicians. As far as the other caulking guns go (electric ryobi) those are for construction size tubes, way bigger than the one I’m talking about. They do sell the tubes in that size, but you will waste 3/4 of the product at $100+ bucks a tube.

I had the control arm on the bench waiting to go in. Side note all of the fasteners are getting paint stripped when they are getting torqued down. So I do have some good new on my wheel well dilemma. I was able to get some of the regular old rubberized coating to properly dry over the existing paint. UPDATE (ERRRR yeah the good news did not last, let the scrapping begin...) Lastly I started to trim the rear brake dust shield to eventually fit larger rear rotors.

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When I was working in the dealerships we used Locktight 5900 and we used the slim tube with a calking gun contraption. It was a Mercedes special tool I got for around $30 from the parts counter. I have it hanging on my peg board, I can grab the P/N later if anyone is interested. Again this is what we used in the dealerships, and from what I understand is the same product used in the factory just smaller tubes.

Here are a couple of quick pics of the wheel still installed. I need to clean it with some leather conditioner, otherwise it is just normal use.

First from one service member to another, thank you for your service. Hope things are getting better out there for you guys than when I served. Awesome progress on your ride. Most of the people on the forum are the 2nd or 3rd owners of these cars, but there are a few like me that are still the first owner. Glad to see these still on the road. Enjoy!

There might be a way to use some auxiliary module to make the body control module (or what ever the correct term for a legacy is) happy. I have seen aftermarket kits in the past pop-up, but is has been a while since I have seen one, probably since most cars come with these as standard features. I doubt we can use a later model Subaru unit to make this work, although I would love to be wrong.