bucko3the7man

That is the exact page I was referencing. When you see the cover off, you'll understand what I mean about the elevation changes. Follow that guide, and only put the RTV in those sections. Hefty bead is fine, don't slap it on all over, but a solid bead on all those areas. I used ultra black when I did it the second time, and I don't leak at all.

I think you're reading it wrong. I read in the vacation pics that the entire raised elevation section plus the half moon seals are what is required. Page ME(H4DOTC)-53 states exactly where you need the RTV. If you have the actual PDF of the vacation pics then it's page 1760.

You do as in Tris' picture, the right side that has the elevation changes, and then you add bits on the half moon seals. Be sure to RTV on all sides of the half moon seals, curved when putting them on the cover and then flat side when you put the cover on the head. Put this on the valve cover not the head btw.

In for that vent gauge pod on the defroster, any progress on that?

Received my V3 DRS and installed it over the weekend. Very good unit, happy with the quality!

I replaced 3/4 half moon seals, couldn't get a good angle on the top driver side one. Rtv those as you put them on also. Fair amount of rtv. Better to have more than not enough.

I'll take one of your new v3 drs units when they're ready!

I bought jeremy's actual prototype one he was using in his car when he parted it out.

I'll be a guinnea pig and take one of your V3 DRS units!

Vent is still fully functional, just can't aim it

I think this is what they mean

Lots of tracks won't let you on track without a roll bar in a convertible too. Check on that

This. Have the seal on hand, that way you cannot possibly damage it. In all seriousness though, just try to pull/push straight. pry bar can help to get it out, just work it around from a bunch of different spots.

Exactly what I did. Just be careful putting it in, you can damage the seal on the transmission when taking the axle out/putting it in.

Not sure what you guys have against the reman axles, I've had an autozone one in my car for almost 3 years and 55,000 miles. Zero problems and a lot less hassle than re-booting your stock axles. For less than the cost of all the stuff in Gimpydingo's post you can have a reman axle from autozone and have money left over to buy the 32mm socket.

The AP1 issue was a design flaw in the rear suspension. The rear toe is dynamic with suspension load, and in snap situations it changes too much and makes the car unpredictable. The way the suspension geometry on the rear of AP1 behaves, is that as load is placed on the wheel, it causes it to toe in, ANY CORRECTION while that load is being placed will cause the wheel to suddenly toe out to it's original state, causing you to suddenly spin out. They changed that in the AP2, and as far as I know it's just as good/bad as any other RWD car.

snap oversteer spin as promised, spin happens at ~40sec in the video. First run on the course in the AM, so cold tires, and i didn't have the front sway bar in the car yet, so I this is the full ap1 snap oversteer design flaw. AP2 fixed that issue btw for those of you wondering. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Az_RB8FO5UE]renegade 7-19-14 spin - YouTube[/ame]

The snap oversteer is real. I'll link a video this morning to me figuring that out at autocrosses

I can't answer for Chris, but I'll offer my own experience with them. I currently own an s2000 and there's still something that really appeals to me about miatas. My ex had a miata and I loved every minute I spent in it. They're light, tossable and you sit a bit higher in the miata than you do in an s2000. I really like both for different reasons.

Probably just need to bleed it, could be air in the lines

This. All of this

Nope, no exhaust needed undoing

Yeah now he has a Camry, when he wrote it he had a lgt. Almost all 4th gens are virtually identical

Miatas are awesome to drive

Perrin already has one