DrD123

absolutely - you could also pull the old belt and take a look before ordering anything, then put it back on until the new belt and any other parts (if needed) arrive - that way you only pay shipping for parts once.

agreed - pull the belt, then check the pulley on the tensioner and the other idler pulley to make sure the bearings are ok - if they sound crunchy or have a lot of play, might as well replace them. The OEM belt is $26.95 (MSRP) so not really expensive. The tensioner is $107 (MSRP) and the idler is $50. I replaced mine when I did my timing belt, and used an OEM belt (the tensioner and idler pulleys were both smooth and quiet, so I left them be). If you had a shop do it, and didn't ask them to replace the serpentine belt (and it's not listed on the receipt) odds are it's the original that is still on there. It's very easy to do - one piece of advice, take a quick picture of the belt routing before you remove the belt (to save yourself the inevitable question of "now how did this thing go on there again?")

same basic deal here - we've had a number of folks get their cars "broken into" in the neighborhood but when you ask how much damage they did, the answer is always the car wasn't locked (happened to my neighbor and two different houses across the street) breaking into most cars sets off an alarm, which attracts attention - if the thief is doing a smash and grab, they usually look to see that there is something worthwhile in the "grab" category first

Podi electronic boost gauge - includes everything shown (sender, control box, gauge, remote, cables, tubing, etc.) - works fine, I just upgraded to a Defi white racer. $55 shipped conus (reasonably firm)

rumor has it if you go to the "general chat" forum, then look at the "vacation pix" thread that might just be stickied in there, you can find all sorts of info that might be helpful with sorting out issues like these...

How do you like the stereo? Can you post up a picture or two of it installed? Curious if it allows you to still use the cubby hole or if it blocks the vents (I've been thinking about getting something with a decent sized screen like this)

Podi electronic boost gauge - includes everything shown (sender, control box, gauge, remote, cables, tubing, etc.) - works fine, I just upgraded to a Defi white racer. $55 shipped conus (reasonably firm) Sold.

There is - should be fuse MB-3 (under hood fuse box)

I have been using Motul gear 300 with good results as well. Subaru has a "high performance gear oil" that they sell in 1 quart bottles, too. Whatever you get, you need a GL5 rated oil.

Correct - 2010-2014 Legacy

I don't think you'd need to swap anything out - the transmission should swap over as a unit, I think. (as long as it's a Legacy transmission, and not an Outback)

I think the only difference is that 5th and 6th are a little taller on the GT than the NA engine cars - final drive is the same, so they should work just fine. I'd actually like a shorter 5th...

Here you go

We had 3 break-ins on our street during the balloon fiesta this year - sadly, while all of the homes were pre-wired by the builder for alarms, most folks didn't bother with it. Now you are pretty much under surveillance if you come on our street, anyway - lots of homes with cameras. (we expanded our system a bit, too). Cameras help deter some, and alert the homeowner when things are going on, but if they want in, they'll get in. An alarm at least helps minimize the time they spend in the house if they chose to go in, or makes them reconsider your home over someone elses which doesn't have an alarm...

Used to be that all windows apps used the windows security settings, but now Edge is off on it's own - lovely.

sounds about right - already vaccinated typically means a mild case for adults, and kids aren't really at risk for covid side effects - it happens, but it's much more of an impact on adults. (risk is higher for a vaccinated adult than an unvaccinated kiddo) I am sure you'll be just fine with your approach.

A number of folks have pulled the damper in the clutch line inside the footwell to improve clutch feel/function as well (I still have mine in, but if you search you can find some info on who has done it and the results they got)

They're actually looking pretty good, now (they had their big kaboom over the summer)

Well, while we didn't have the bonus spike you guys had in April, looks like we are blowing up about the same as you guys now... (which is kindof surprising since much of NM is pretty much empty people-wise - things are really spread out) overall vaccination rate is a bit better in NM, so where I work (which since we're federal, we are following the federal mandate) is an anomaly even in this state - we're sitting at 91-ish % fully vaccinated - we'll max out January 18th, I imagine, when they terminate everyone whom isn't vaccinated and doesn't have an approved exemption.

I have a RikGT one - three of the bolts use bolts that are already there, for one there is a hole already there, you need to run the bolt through it though, and then there are two where there are holes in the bracket, but no holes in the wheel well, so you'd have to drill if you wanted to use them. I didn't bother with them. I marked up one of the pictures already in this thread to show where the bolts are.

What were you running? I've seen a couple of different redline/motul combinations suggested - one being the redline shockproof with gear 300, and one with redline mtl and motul gear 300. The redline shockproof has always been something I've thought isn't a great idea for a daily driver... I've been running just plain old motul gear 300 for years (been using that since getting my WRX back in 02 until I got the GT and have had it in this car for about 8 years (when I first changed the gear oil) - it's worked just fine for me - I like it as since it's an ester based synthetic, it's very shear stable and in line with that, I notice no changes in performance from when it's new to when I changed it out last time after 45k miles or so. Can't say I noticed a change when I swapped from the factory fill to gear 300, either... I think gear oil selection can make a bigger difference when the synchros are worn, but if they aren't, good oil is good oil. If they are, then I bet oils designed to improve synchro function are a good thing (penzoil synchromesh, redline mtl or mt90, etc.) though they aren't usually gl5 rated...

That's fair. For masking, etc., it's on the states to determine if it's mandatory or not - should it be for unvaccinated? sure, I can get behind that, but it's just about impossible to enforce - so the states that opt to mandate masks indoors (NM is one of those states, so definitely what I deal with every day) do it for everyone, irrespective of vaccination status - hell, at work we are over 90% vaccination (soon to be higher when they terminate all the unvaccinated folks without a medical or religious exemption) and we are still required to mask inside 100%. Basically, everyone gets penalized due to some opting not to vaccinate... feels kinda like collective punishment... not a good thing, and it breeds resentment.

Uh - no. No more than someone vaccinated who gets the virus and infects others is violating anyone else's rights - and folks absolutely are getting sick even though they are vaccinated, though it definitely reduces the impact in most cases if you are vaccinated. I am vaccinated, as is the rest of my family - and I literally don't care if someone else decides to vaccinate or not - that's on them. They do their risk assessment and move on - I might not agree with their decision, but I'm not going to go crazy over it. As for misinformation, that's been "the way" for many, many years - thing is, if they believe in it, that's what they are going to do...

There are all sorts of things you can do to improve the shifter - the Perrin shift stop helps with the excess play to the left of 1-2, adjusting the one in place already helps reduce the slop to the right of 5-6, replacing the shift bushing with the Perrin (or others out there) brass one helps with forward/backwards play, and upgrading the assembly with the STi one for the 5th gen legacy (if they are even still available) or the one for the 15+ WRX will help tighten up the shifter overall (increased spring force, etc.) I've got the STi short shifter, the brass bushing, and the Perrin shift stop (make sure you get the right one!) and it's been great. There are other short shifters that replace the linkage/arm on the transmission that reduce throw more than the STi one does (only reduces it by 20% or so) but I don't have one of those.

Here you go - it's either pins 1+4 or 3+6 depending on which side of the car it's on for the power leads (they all have 6 pins, but only the front left uses all 6, the others just use 2)