DrD123

I am getting prepped to do the timing belt on my car as well - I bought the 6starbernie kit (OEM tensioner, all OEM idlers (direct from manuf), Mitsuboshi belt), waiting on some miscellaneous stuff (OEM upper/lower rad hose, serpentine belt, plugs), have a camlock tool for the drivers side cams, and a torque solution crank pulley tool. Pretty sure I am good to go once it all gets here. (opting to forego the waterpump since the car only has 74k miles and that getting the wp on the GT is a bit more than I feel like dealing with this go-around) - oddly enough, the thermostat is on national backorder (appears to be unique to the 5th gen GT) - definitely pulling the radiator, etc. to make room. I'll use a feeler gauge for the belt guides (spec is 1mm +/- 0.5mm, so not a bit deal). Need to pick up coolant, then I'll have everything. I've done timing belts in the past, but this will be the first time on this car. If you are going all OEM parts, I can see it getting up into the $600 range for all the bits, then book rate is probably something like 6 hours, I imagine... so depending on your dealers hourly rate, $1400 with tax doesn't sound too horrible - definitely not getting a deal, but if done right, and you can't do it yourself, it's not horrible.

If you want to continue monitoring things using the AP, then you need to flash to the stage 0 map (uses stock fuel, boost, and timing values)

You can flash to a stage zero tune if you want to keep the AP tied to the ECU, or just uninstall it to return the car to the factory settings, then just reinstall it when the issue is resolved. My only concern would be if you had it at a dealer and they tried to flash the ECU with whatever software updates are available from Subaru and that somehow messed up your AP so it wouldn't work without getting it reset by Cobb, so I'd want to unmarry/uninstall it rather than flashing a stage 0 tune - however, if you make the shop doing the work aware, you should be fine.

keep in mind that there are electronics in the modern throttle bodies - if you have cracked solder joints or damaged traces, it doesn't take much temperature to result in a pretty large change in electrical behavior (maybe going from a decent connection, to one that become intermittent) so I wouldn't rule it out - in a 2010, you are looking at an electromechanical bit that has seen 12 years of heat cycling, extended time at engine temperatures, etc. - it's hard on things! valve adjustment is expensive because to "adjust" you need to pull the cams. What would they charge to just check the clearances?

That's literally what I do - I love 303 because it protects, but doesn't look all oily/shiny like some other products. I use it inside and on plastic outside, but after a decade in the NM sun, the coating is riddled with little cracks and gets all chalky within a few weeks of treating it. The cerakote stuff is more of a permanent coating (sort of looks like you put a clearcoat on it) so it will probably last quite some time - we shall see! if it starts flaking, I'll probably pull and replace the parts. It's shinier than I like, but I like it being black and a little shiny than chalky and grey, so it will work for now! The info on breakage rate of the clips is great - thanks - I was wondering how many I would need (since there are six clips at $5/ea on each side, plus a rivet thing in the front, plus the trim) - probably what I will do if the coating fails is buy the two trim pieces and a half dozen clips. (the service manual says you lift the trim up, then use a screwdriver to move the clips forward to remove them)

Not sure about other cars, but the roof molding on my car is looking kinda rough - I have tried to be good about treating it, but the coating on it is cracking and when i put stuff on it, it fades back to whitish grey in short order... I have thought about replacing it (it's like $35 a side) but I don't know how awful it is to remove (there's a blind rivet in the front, and a bunch of clips along the length) I just tried using cerakote trim coat on it and it looks pretty good (still lots of little cracks in the black coating, but it's dark black now, and this stuff is supposed to be pretty resilient) Anyway - curious if anyone else has dealt with this (the sun is pretty intense here in NM, so I am guessing that's the cause)

I would bet most of the components use surface mount LEDs which are going to be a challenge to desolder and replace.

I think the jbweld approach has a non-zero chance of going horribly wrong... weird that the threads were binding - I am guessing debris of some sort got in there if when it was first removed it came out without incident... Gradually running the bolt in there (with known good threads) like a tap with something to lubricate the threads as was done here is probably the safest approach - the steel bolt is always going to win against the aluminum threads, so taking your time and running it in straight by hand is what I would have done, as well. Only additional step I would have probably done is to try and clean out the hole to remove any potential debris - getting the tube in there from a can of brake/parts cleaner and flushing it out thoroughly

injection site pain is pretty typical for the first shot - I had that, but it wasn't much worse than a flu shot (the shingles shot, which you won't need for quite some time, was much, much worse for me in terms of injection site pain) - more of an annoyance than something that prevented me from moving my arm, anyway! systemic side effects seem to be worse for the booster dose, and have a higher prevalence with Moderna vs. Pfizer.

There should be a connector in the trunk lid specifically for the stop light in the spoiler (looks like connector R66 in the service manual)

There are a bunch of things on this fuse, so if nothing else is not working, I would guess it's not the fuse.

Well, it's part number 93013AJ000 - MSRP is $70.27, comes in at $52+shipping at online dealers, and about the same on fleabay. If the you-pull-it lots around you have any Legacy's on the lot, that's the cheapest route. (note - the part number is different for 2013-2014, so not sure how interchangeable they are)

Certainly agree the risk of blood clots in the brain is low (here it's the J&J vaccine) - just remember, it's only rare until it's you or someone you care about.

New KYB struts work just fine as donors (that's what I did - lets you do the install as you have time, which was helpful for me) - that being said, you mention a 2015+ - not sure if the Koni inserts for the 5th gen will work for the 6th gen

Both Pfizer and Moderna have indicated they have the 6 months of data needed to apply for full approval - Pfizer can apply this month, and the article I read says Moderna will follow shortly afterward. The approval process apparently takes another 6 months or so, so approval wouldn't be until late in the year. https://www.10news.com/news/coronavirus/in-depth-how-full-fda-approval-would-impact-vaccine-mandates-competition

No - while the Advance series gauges require a separate control unit (which allows you to adjust the illumination intensity for bright/dim for some of those gauges), the racer series gauges are standalone units - there is no control unit. There are no buttons/switches on the gauge, either - you have switched power, constant power, ground, and illumination. As far as I can tell, when it sees voltage above some threshold on the illumination lead, the gauge flips from the day setting to a dimmed/night setting. Others I have reached out to indicate that there are only two settings, daytime (full bright) and night (dimmed to maybe 30-40% of the day brightness) - I was trying to see if there was something I was doing wrong that was yielding the 2 stage bright/dim instead of dimming with the dimmer.

So the bulletin says 1/3 quart in 1200 miles as the cutoff - that sounds a lot more reasonable!

I keep remembering the Kay and Peele airline skit where one of them is telling the other not to do something and he's responding "but is it against the law?" - I think until the country mandates vaccinations - or even the state, folks can still go with the "I don't want to" and it will fly. I have been wondering at what point we would get to the situation where everyone who wants to be vaccinated has been, and how many people will be left... The rushed vaccine development is not really true - as explained by several virologists at the labs I work at, normally, vaccine development is slowed by lack of funding and lack of a population to test on - this time they had the money they needed, and test subjects a plenty, so it could go fast. They did do the emergency use authorization, which takes place before the last set of data is gathered that is required for full authorization and usually takes a couple of months. (I was more than a little concerned they had cut corners until it was explained to me by folks who know)

2013 was the first year the FB25 was in the Legacy - should have the same thing in the 2014. The FB25 is in all the 2.5 Legacy and Outback models from 2013 on, but I imagine there are changes... So is the engine running properly, just using oil? I think they say anything less than 1 quart in 1k miles is "normal" (though that's a lot of oil!) - how do the plugs look when you pull them? are they getting fouled? When you look up the short block for the 2013, it says it fits 2013-2016 and the heads are listed for 2013-2014, so there may be different sensors or something like that... when the service manuals come out, there is usually a section on "what's new" from the previous year - I have the one for my 2012, but haven't seen it for other years... Anyway - the info on parts.subaru.com certainly suggests you could at the very least get a known good short block and put the existing heads on it... (the oil usage is piston rings, I believe, so a new bottom end should solve the problem) - if it's still running fine, though, you can buy an awful lot of oil for what its going to cost to replace the short block - even with used parts and on your own time...

they keyless entry and the immobilizer are separate - you can reprogram the car for the key fobs, but you need a dealership or someone with a comparable tool to the SSM to program the immobilizer to recognize the key. Maybe that's the problem?

I came across a Defi white racer boost gauge (new and never installed) for a good price and picked it up. Have it all wired in and had a question about the dimming functionality - do Defi racer gauges just have two brightness levels - full bright for daytime, then a single dimmed setting for dimming? I have searched around a bit and have found folks that say there are 2 levels, and folks that say their gauge "dims perfectly" which could mean it dims when the headlights are on, or that it dims, and adjusts with the dimmer switch... Currently I grab B+ and ACC from the fuse box with add-a-fuse things, then I have the illumination lead tied to the violet wire (grabbed the one going to the parking brake illumination since I had a harness I made and could splice into that instead of factory wiring) So is this the correct behavior? I believe some of the fancier Defi gauges behave similarly, but you can adjust the level from the control unit (which the racer gauges obviously don't have)

Mine fit into the headlight housing and under the OEM cover - lights, drivers, and everything.

The decision to make it mandatory is a tough one - many employers are dealing with it, not just the military. I know the lab I am at was initially going to make it mandatory, then backed off - once everyone is reasonably able to have been vaccinated, they will make weekly COVID tests mandatory, from what we have been told. I firmly believe everyone should be able to decide for themselves, as long as necessary precautions are taken. (though hopefully enough people will vaccinate that we are able to get past this!)

The advantages of the J&J is that it's one shot and doesn't require the refrigeration the mRNA ones do (so really seemed like a great option for remote areas like the reservations around here where there are folks that just aren't going to come into town to get vaccinated - makes it way easier to get it to them. The disadvantage is the lower efficacy and some odd side effects (see Denver earlier this week) and they've been having QC issues with their subs that are making it for them - has led to whole lots of vaccine getting tossed... For prevalence of side effects, I'll defer to the data on the CDC site.

What do the highbeams do when running as DRLs? do you get full brightness? I like a lower color temperature than those - 6500k is too blue for me (the VLEDS I bought are 5k - also, they go on sale every now and then - I think it was something like 20 or 25% off around christmas the year before last) I like the boots you are using - might pick up a set to have the heatsink/fan outside the housing