DrD123

Yup - whatever 100% less the number of medical exemptions is (which sounds like they will be difficult to get after talking to some folks going after one) will be our vaccination rate once they terminate everyone who isn't vaccinated. The deadline for most federally funded places is December 8th of this year you have to be fully vaccinated which is 2 weeks after your last shot (so just over 6 weeks from now - so for Moderna, you would need to get your first shot no later than Wednesday of this week, if you get Pfizer, first shot needs to be Wednesday of next week, and J&J is November 24th)

We've all been asking much the same question - we actually went back to normal just before delta took off with no masks, then they had us mask back up. When the powers that be were asked when we are at near 100% (after December 8th) will we be able to remove the masks then, and we were told they weren't sure yet... so there's that. It's just silly. (New Mexico is one of 7 states that still have state-wide mandates at the moment... so no idea if they will let us unmask once the state mandate runs out (November 12th, I think))

Well - the cerakote works great right until it's hot out and you wash the car, apparently - I think the thermal shock associated with cold water on the car when it's hot resulted in the coating flaking off (my thought as a materials person wound be the CTE mismatch between the ceraminc loaded coating and the rubber layer on the roof molding is substantial... Anyway - I just went ahead and replaced them - it looks so much nicer! I did cerakote on the cowling which was getting pretty sad looking so we'll see how that does. (both times, I made sure to clean everything really well - first with soap, then rinsing and following with IPA until the towel came back clean. Pulled the wiper arms to get better access (well, easier access) - looks great, so we'll see how it does! thumbs up on the OEM replacement of the molding, though!

Well, if you are at an organization that takes federal dollars, the federal mandate applies - where I work literally has no choice but to follow the rules, so to speak. Personally, I don't see why an adult wouldn't want to get vaccinated, but I think folks should be allowed to do their own risk assessment and do what is right for them. At one point, they were talking about if you weren't vaccinated, you'd need to do weekly tests, mask, etc. - but when the executive order came out, that's not an option - unless you have a medical exemption (which from the saferfederalworkforce site, is if you have been shown to be at risk for anaphylaxis from one or more constituents of the vaccine) you have to vaccinate. Religious exemptions are silly if they are going to make you take leave without pay until "the pandemic is over" that's obviously not really an exemption... they haven't said what they are doing for that where I work yet... probably will soon. What I think is crazy is that even if you worked 100% from home and never set foot on site, that's still not good enough. myself, I'm vaccinated so am not really concerned about being around unvaccinated individuals. I was hoping if we got over some threshold - say 90% - they'd let us revert to normal... sadly no.

So at work we now officially have a mandate with the "or what" spelled out if you aren't vaccinated by the deadline - that would be termination. We have a pretty high rate (just shy of 90%) but that leaves around 1600 people who are not vaccinated. I know a couple (one is a clear medical exemption, others have personal reasons) - I expect things to get uglier as we approach the deadline... they haven't said what the folks who get a medical exemption will have to do, nor have they said for religious exemptions (another lab granted religious exemptions but you have to take leave without pay until the pandemic is over! wouldn't be surprised to see the same thing here)

Was it the slide pins? I wouldn't think stuck slide pins would be causing a hard brake pedal... what did they want you to use for a grease?

My headgaskets didn't fail, but the engine spun a bearing at 58k miles, so there's that... they did technically get replaced, though...

so you're saying general hospitals didn't realign to handle larger volumes of covid patients they were facing? really? no steps had to be taken to maintain isolation, etc.? none at all? perhaps they didn't in delaware, but they absolutely did elsewhere. absolutely - there are many that are for-profit and many that are not - you do understand that "many" is a different word than "most", right? that you can have many of more than just one thing? Also - all hospitals - for-profit and non-profit alike - have to worry about financial viability.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2018_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Premium-Sedan/Deck-Lid-Emblem/60019369/93033AL000.html also one for cheap on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/133730135673?hash=item1f22efee79:g:uCsAAOSw3O9geZIu

Part number 93033AL000

Don't we already know this? All of the actions taken (lockdowns, masks, etc.) have helped slow the spread and flatten the curve, right?

I think some places realigned their facilities to take care of covid patients, while other facilities were kept as they were - a facility configured to deal with trauma like say "physical damage" is not really where you want to be handling infectious diseases. I think it's definitely appropriate to keep facilities like that doing what they do best because everything didn't stop due to covid - folks are still getting hurt! Many hospitals are for-profit - so there isn't the incentive to keep beds open "just in case" - we have run into no/low beds many, many times pre-covid when dealing with issues for my daughter. covid definitely exacerbated the problem, but the underlying issue has been there for many years.

service manual shows it on the bottom of the tank and says if it ohms out incorrectly, to replace the level sensor and tank, so sounds like you are stuck!

Hospitals are definitely taking it on the chin around here, too - however, they've been running lean on beds for many years (I have a special needs kiddo who ends up in the ER every now and then and we would run into "no beds" at some of the hospitals long before COVID was a thing - now that it's here, it's just a disaster because the system can't handle it.) I can't see COVID going away anytime soon - or ever, really... - I imagine with time, the impact on people will be much the same as the flu now. Recall (well - none of us are that old, I suppose, so read, i guess!) how horrible that was when influenza first showed up - the first time a new aggressive virus hits the population, it's a mess until those predisposed to have issues with it are gone... sucks, but it is what it is.

axles, maybe? if it's once per revolution of the tires there aren't but so many things it could be... if you removed the axles when you did the bearings, any chance the axle seals got damaged, or the ends of the axles?

There are a few on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/254604621700?epid=15040714621&hash=item3b479e3784:g:GosAAOSwJJJex84h there are tons with the whole center trim, too

Part number 66120AJ03A (kinda expensive for what it is - I'd find a used one on ebay or something like that) - that's the one with the cover that flips open - looks like the other one might not be available anymore.

So is the VDC light on or anything like that? Service manual doesn't offer a whole lot other than checking connectors to the ECU

the black plastic cladding... ugh. back to the black plastic side skirts like the bugeye... but you at least had the option to get those painted...

it's a torx bolt - not sure the size - maybe T10 or T15? If you have a harbor freight nearby you can pick up a set of bits that will have anything you might need for $10 (assuming you already have a driver that takes bits) https://www.harborfreight.com/security-bit-set-with-case-100-pc-68457.html

With a rivet, best way to remove is to drill through the center (the outer part is plastic, but the expander is aluminum it looks like) - if you try to yank the rivet out you will deform the hole it goes through. Here's a picture of the part (uninstalled - when installed the aluminum tang will snap off at the front of the rivet, and the ball end will expand the rivet behind the hole)

They are plastic pop rivets, unfortunately. (part no. 905920045)

You should drive a little and go to South Main Auto in Avoca and have him make a video for us! (looks to be a bit of a drive for you, but it's fun watching EricO fix stuff!)

So by controller, you mean the resistor, right? (I've had mine for a bit, but haven't gotten around to installing them yet) - where did you mount the resistors? I was looking at putting them on the brackets and have them attached to one of the headlight mounting bolts, but need to pull the bumper to get to it (or slot the bracket... I might do that) - weekends have been tied up for a bit, so just haven't had a chance!

Yup - it's due! About right for mileage and into "overtime" for time. (I'd do belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, thermostat, and plugs - also replace the serpentine belt since it has to come off to get the timing belt) I'd just buy the parts and change everything out as it's due - at 75k miles a few months ago, the belt on mine definitely looked tired (they don't really "fray" per se - there was definitely wear on the teeth, though - idlers were still in decent condition (no real play) but the tensioner was definitely weeping fluid)