DrD123

That was my plan B (using some trim adhesive I have) - my original is sort of full of crap (at least the bottom one) from tumbleweeds, etc.

So what other mods does it have - you should not be hitting 25 psi with a stock tune - I'd be worried you are running lean... Also -what stereo is in there? There looks to be a dial next to the passenger heated seat light - what is that for? (it's not stock)

Well - it's installed and leak tight, so I can finally give my kiddo her Pilot back. So for folks that have replaced their radiator, did you replace the foam tape insulator things at the top and bottom? The bottom is about an inch and a half wide and maybe 3/4" thick and the top is about an inch wide and maybe a half inch thick. I ended up getting some 1" wide, 1" thick (well - it expands to that thick - it's to fill gaps from 1/4" to 1") foam tape meant for metal roofs (figure if it can handle that in NM, the heat from the radiator is a non-issue) - couldn't bring myself to buy two little pieces of foam tape each priced more than a roll of the stuff I got (I think it was $8 at home depot). The stuff I bought seemed to work just fine, and it's pinched between the radiator and the radiator support by design, so even if the adhesive fails, it's not going anywhere...

well - the OEM radiator finally showed up - it's even intact! So I'll put it in tomorrow and be back in business.

I have searched a bit and couldn't find a list per se - looks like the Koyo VH091662 fits as plug and play, the Mishimoto MMRAD-STI-08 looks like it can fit, but might require modification (hard to say - the person that installed it has an upgraded charge pipe which complicated things - not sure how it would work with the OEM charge pipe) - are there others that will work? I have seen some folks comment on poor build quality from Mishimoto, so I was leaning towards the koyo...

I agree - if you replaced some components, you are supposed to do the force sensor calibration for the actuator, which sadly requires the SSM

Yeah - I'm looking at the Koyo radiator (VH091662) - I really wanted to stick with OEM (I just like to do that... it's sad) but if it doesn't work out by mid-week, I'll order up the Koyo - I believe it either doesn't have the extra hole, or the hole is threaded and will take a plug.

and now the freight company up in Denver is having issues, so the pallet of stuff my radiator is in is stuck in their terminal until next week. it just keeps getting better...

Check the wiring and connectors to/from the actuator - if you live somewhere where they use lots of deicing salts on the road, then for an older vehicle corrosion is always a suspect - particularly for things that have wiring under the car! Also - not at all uncommon for parking brake cables to corrode and get sticky/require more force to actuate (the parking brake actuator basically pulls the cables to the parking brakes in lieu of you doing it with a manual lever. The flashing brake light is an indicator of an electrical problem (short in the warning light circuit or a defective sensor/connector)

The STi radiator has an extra connection/tube to it for the surge tank so I'd have to figure out how to cap that - it's supposed to be at the dealership in Colorado today (delayed from yesterday...) so we'll see... my kiddo hasn't revolted yet for not having their car, so I am in good shape as far as that goes...

So is it hard to pretty much get any part nowadays? It's been a comedy of errors from the places I am trying to buy from - first found one for sale by a Subaru dealer up in the northeast on fleabay (brand new in the box - pictures and everything) - I had called the local dealership (which usually charges msrp+10% - true to form they were doing the same thing, plus said there was but 1 radiator in the country (which seemed odd) so at a bit over half of what they were charging, I could get the one shipped from the northeast. So I figured - done! Bought it, then asked a few times if they had an idea when it would ship - got the "we are processing it now" sort of response twice, then a week after buying it, I get an email saying they don't actually have it, and they cancel my order. So I figure, well that sucks, so went ahead and ordered from a dealer I usually buy from in CO - they said it is showing as orderable, then a couple of days after the order, they got confirmed tracking info that it was en route to them, so I figured I was all set - they were supposed to have it this past monday, but it was delayed and now they are supposed to get it tomorrow.... they assure me the part is real and they will have it, so with any luck, maybe early next week (!) I'll have it in hand here and be back on the road again. Still saving $100 over the local dealer, but it's costing me time. (I am really fortunate I was able to grab my kiddos car, so I am driving that and she is carless for the start of the semester at school) - the worst part is that maybe a day after they cancelled my order, the dealer has the flipping thing back up for sale on ebay! Even supposing they did find it misplaced, they could have reached out and asked if I still wanted it! that being said, to save $50 (plus being shipped across the country) I am not really inclined to do the experiment and buy it from them again (in my mind only to have the order cancelled in a week again...) It shouldn't take weeks to get a part! (but at this point, I am on a mission!)

You really need to lift the car and pull the wheel - then pull the caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor off -- grind off any corrosion product buildup on the dust shield, then make sure it's bent back enough to not rub on the rotor (if there's significant rust buildup on the outer edge of the rotor, clean that up too. If the dust shield is really bad, you can replace it, but that involves removing the bearing (since it's held in place by the bearing and its bolts) but if you have enough corrosion to make the dust shield a mess, the bearing isn't going to come out without a fight... after you clean up the dust shield, hit it with some paint (or probably better, a rust converter then paint) so it at least buys you more time before it does it again... Once the corrosion gets pretty bad, the corrosion product can bridge the gap to the rotor - another problem that likely sounds different is the buildup of rust on the outer part of the rotors themselves

they should move more air, so that's a good thing!

Well, there must be some difference - it would not be a very financially sound decision by subaru to have different radiators if they could just use the same p/n for all of them... (doesn't mean they didn't do it, just that it would be dumb) For 2012, the service manual looks pretty identical for the 2.5i NA radiator and the 2.5GT radiator, plus in the 5th gen there is just the normal inlet/outlet and overflow lines on both - no additional connections for the GT, so why are there two different part numbers and at least on parts.subaru.com they say the GT one only fits the GT and the 2.5i specifically does not... for the core, the only info they really give is the outer dimensions - maybe there's something different internally? hard to believe there would be as the number of fins looks to be the same... looking at a picture of the 2.5i radiator and comparing it to the GT the only difference I can see is the inner diameter of the tube going to the overflow tank, but I don't know how that would matter.

Looking at pictures for used parts on eBay, I am having a hard time seeing any differences between the radiator for the GT and the one for the NA legacy (both with manual transmissions) - if there's a difference externally, it's subtle (doesn't mean it would fit everything properly, but they look pretty darn similar...) - maybe there is something different in the core? Comparing the two, the opening in the tube to the overflow container looks smaller for the NA radiator.

That's my school of thought as well - the thing is, the radiator is different for the manual transmission legacy with the 2.5i and the manual transmission legacy GT and I am not sure why! It looks like it could be the position of the outlet or it could be the fan mounting points or it could be the core - the specs for the water pump output are the same, the external dimensions of the core are the same, but the fans are bigger (320 vs. 300mm) and higher wattage (120 vs. 90) and the lower radiator hose is different (position of the water pump/thermostat cover is different, though, so it could be due to that or could be the outlet is different on the radiator, too... I'd really like to find out what the differences are before going with one for the 2.5i only to find out while installing it that it won't work for whatever reason!

Long story short - I thought it was leaking at my upper radiator hose, so I replaced it then it was still leaking so removed the upper radiator hose and the flared part of the radiator inlet came off with it... pretty annoying. Lots of places list "guaranteed fit" for the car, but they have a transmission cooler in them. What is concerning me is the radiator for the 2.5i 6mt is different than the GT (p/n 45111AJ09A for the GT vs 45111AJ01A for the 2.5i, then 45111AJ10A for the CVT... the specs for the core in the service manual are the same for the 2.5i and the GT, but the fans are different

So I think I have a crack in the upper radiator hose attachment point on my radiator - trying to source a replacement and getting a little confused/frustrated - the OEM radiator for the GT (45111AJ09A ) is 5th gen GT specific - when I look at say RockAuto, the replacements it shows all look like they have transmission coolers in them. Can we run a radiator for the regular 2.5i and just plug off/not use the transmission cooler? All of the replacements on say RockAuto show that they are the replacement for 45111AJ10A which is the one for the car with the CVT (so has a transmission cooler) I suppose I can buy the OEM one, but it's a little spendy and no idea how quickly it would get here...

What does the MAF reading do as the RPMs increase while driving? Sounds like it's under-reporting - perhaps it's dirty or there is a leak in the intake somewhere?

Hope 2023 is better for all than 2022 was!

there are definitely lots of options on Amazon, many with lots of positive reviews on there (for whatever that's worth - I usually take reviews on Amazon with a grain of salt) - some looks like the typical ones that are mounted in the bumper, others are for the plate frame

Got them in and installed (the Stabilus 5B-882188) - install was a piece of cake, and the trunk is back to working as new - when you pop the lock, it lifts maybe 1cm or so (so you can see it's open) then after you open it a little, it opens the rest of the way on its own. One note - when you go to take one of the old ones off, make sure you put the hood all the way up, or it falls right down

You are describing more or less what mine does - when you pop the trunk, it just stays closed (doesn't lift up a little) and you are definitely doing all the work to lift it up, and if you let go anywhere except all the way up, it clunks back closed. When the struts were in good condition, it would pop open a bit, then lifting it up was easier and it would stay open. Mine have been pretty dead for a while, I just finally got around to doing something about it! Tracking info shows the package is out for delivery this morning, so either today or tomorrow I'll get them installed and see!

Thanks - I'll give them a try!

Has anyone replaced these with something other than OEM? the Subaru ones are $20-ish a piece, but can get aftermarket for under $10 on rockauto (from Strongarm, AMS Automotive, Stabilus, FCS, and Tuff Support) but I don't recognize any of those vendors in terms of if they are good/bad. Mine are pretty much dead, and I figured why not change them out. (the hood struts are still a-ok, though)