DrD123

Which dealership did you get it to? I thought the only dealerships in NM were in Albuquerque and Santa Fe - didn't realize there was one in Gallup

check out this thread - maybe pm Falcor as he just had this done on his car

The spring seat (rubber part that sits inside the "cup" part of the upper mount) will creep a little, but as it creeps the additional "space" is taken up by the spring (the spring is always under compression when the strut is assembled) - if you take apart a rear strut assembly, the rubber seat will have a permanent impression of the spring in it, whereas the new one doesn't (it compresses when the spring is installed, and eventually takes on a permanent set in that position) the upper mount is more or less all metal as far as the vertical part goes (with the exception of the seat - the seat is part 20375 in the diagram) - the distance to measure (to see if there is a change) is the face the spring mounts/presses against and the mounting surface of the strut (where it mounts to the frame) or the point where the strut shaft bottoms out on the mount - the cup part is likely going to be a little different when comparing parts from different manufacturers.

There was a TSB for the sun load sensor (this impacted the auto-headlights) where they needed to modify the harness - do the auto-headlights work correctly? For the not-cold, if you can, have someone check the charge in the system and look for leaks - not at all uncommon to have an o-ring fail on a 13 year old car! Hopefully it's just the charge and a failed o-ring and not the compressor!

Did you give them your vin when you ordered or let them know what the bar was for? Alec is pretty good about checking things, so hopefully they'll help you out!

I did that when I had the short block replaced - I bought 20401AJ00A (swaybar) and 20414AJ10A (bushings - need 2) and have that installed on my car. (also have the 13/14 springs with Koni shocks)

Have you pressure tested the coolant system? Also - any chance the water pump is broken? (don't know how it could, but if the impeller came off it's shaft and was no longer pushing coolant, that would make the lower radiator hose stay cool even though the engine was at temperature)

There's a bolt on the bottom of the water pump that I don't know has clearance to come out without pulling the cat. There's also a rear facing coolant line that needs to come off - maybe it can be done without removing stuff, but it's probably a pain - here are some images (not mine - when I did my timing belt I went with the same thought - also, I was replacing on age not mileage (only 74k miles on the car at the time)

sounds like a blend/mode door motor fluttering to me. Those sounds can come and go (i have heard it a few times in my car)

You'd need an awful lot of plastic bits to clog the top of the radiator, I would think - a few chunks from the inlet aren't going to be a big deal. Looks like you have 2/3 or so of the ring sitting in your hand, so probably not much more (assuming some is probably in the upper radiator hose, too)

I've thought of using the Mazda filters - if I couldn't source the AA100's I probably would have done that (and might in the future) - that thread on the Forester site is great - looks like there used to be pictures, too (must not have been hosted on the site) -a site that has some info (in the form of images) is "http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/oil/filters/" - that's older still (the link still works - had it from when I had my WRX)

I have seen that as well, unfortunately (sort of a been there, done that) - from my own vehicle earlier this year.

I know NAPA gold filters at least used to be made by Wix - I have bought them (Wix) for our Odyssey (usually buy stuff from rockauto) - oddly enough, the Fram filters called out for the Legacy GT (the XG6607 or PH6607) on the Rockauto site list a 13 psi bypass pressure. Wix is definitely listed as 23, same as in the service manual.

Yup - certainly true for the blue ones (the 15208AA12A and 15208AA15A) - before that it was Purolator (I haven't seen any other Fram filters with the o-ring style gasket, so maybe they decided they didn't want to deal with that any more - who knows). The current two (the SOA6351520812 and SOA6351520815) are made by AC Delco. The black filters are Tokyo Roki - used to be able to get those from the dealer for my 02 WRX when I had it. I've just always used OEM filters on my Subarus (which is funny because that's definitely not what I do with our van or my daughters SUV) - I guess I got it in my head way back in 01-02 that the OEM was the way to guarantee the bypass valve pressure, and have just always done that. Anyway - I picked up a few of the 15208AA100 Tokyo-Roki filters for my car and will be using those now, I guess. Do I have to? no. Will it matter in the long run? odds are not. Am I still going to do it. yup. (given the cost of fuel, oil, etc. the difference in cost of the filters is insignificant, and I just like the construction better) - I ended up buying them from Flatirons tuning in CO.

So apparently this has been an issue for some time now, but at least around here I have been able to get the 15208AA12A filter until just recently (usually pick up a few when I buy parts) - the last time I bought parts, I found several places didn't have that filter in stock, but Heuberger indicated they did, so I ordered some with a few other parts I bought - the filters they sent were unmarked with a flat gasket instead of the o-ring like one and the only markings were some text on the end that said they were the SOA6351520812. Looking a bit, I found that these have apparently been an emergency replacement for Subaru since late last year as they could no longer source their filters. I found a video on Youtube that was pretty surprising - internally, the "new" filter looks a lot better than the old one in that it has metal end caps for the filter media instead of cardboard, and a more open inner liner. I was really surprised to see the paper endcaps on the old filter. I ended up just going and buying some 15208AA100 filters and am going to use those for a bit. To be fair, the tear downs don't tell anything about the efficacy of the filter media (which is the important part), and odds are any of them are just fine, but I really like the o-ring style gasket... I've pretty much always used OEM filters for my car (actually was really helpful when I had the short block incident a few years back in demonstrating oil change intervals) - did that both for my old 02 WRX and then my LGT... Anyway - here's the vid

Does the engine really need to come out to do the clutch? The service manual shows doing it by using a cross-support engine stand, then taking the transmission out the bottom - is that more difficult? (is it hard to get the car high enough on jack stands to get the transmission out? I've never had to do the clutch on the Legacy or my old WRX or previous cars I've owned (for past vehicles, something I have gotten rid of the vehicle before the clutch has worn out)

Diagram shows the outlet as the only thing on the circuit, so if the fuse is blowing immediately, you probably have a short to ground (either something jammed in the socket, the socket itself could have failed internally, or the wire has worn through to ground somewhere.

I bought the connector from Mouser (their p/n 571-1318774-1) and the pins for the connector as well (p/n 571-1123343-1) - they are made by TE Connectivity. I ended up pulling the old switch (see below) - for the harness, I picked up a length of 9 wire cable from a local electronics shop (you only need 8). If you pull the old switch, there is a short cable segment that goes from the switch to the wiring harness (see pic from a switch on ebay) - I cut that and used that on the other end of the cable I made to connect to the car harness. When I got the switch blank assembly to go where the old switch was, I found that the USDM hill holder switch didn't fit, so I had to improvise with the old switch housing to make it work. Came out pretty good, I thought!

We did not - I imagine we could buy the parts from japanparts or similar, but it would be expensive. I got the cupholder and trim from them years back, then got the emergency brake switch and fabricated a harness (using a connector from TE connectivity that worked with the switch, and the cable on the OEM switch on the other end) - I always hated having the brake switch on the left side of the dash.

Are you looking to put an engine from a WRX or STi in it, or do you have access to something from a 5th gen GT? There are some changes external to the block that might make it awkward (the engine mounts are different, and the turbo is a low mount/under the engine the way they did with the current engine in the WRX. the rear mount looks to be the same, though. I am guessing you would grenade the CVT in pretty short order unless you were real gentle with it - they introduced the high torque version for the engines with a bit more power in them. There's a poster here that put an STi 6spd in their LGT, but it was a lot of work! If you can find a wrecked 5th gen GT that should have everything you'd need, but the 5th gen GT is pretty rare.

Depending on which one has the issue, there are some networky changes going from 2010-2012 to 2013-2014 - Subaru gangs the grounds together at joint connectors in the harness, so if there's one in the systems you are looking at, that's worth chasing down too - I could easily see how an intermittent power supply (supposing a connection was being made/broken) could get all sorts of stuff mad and maybe mess with the CAN. Scan tools are great, but they tell you more or less what the car thinks is wrong (a bidirectional tool would be something else - I haven't been inspired to get one just yet - I use something similar to you for most stuff - an OBDLink MX+ - I also keep a cheap ELM327 emulator in the car just in case I need it while out and about) - never underestimate the usefulness of a multimeter and a test light for chasing electrical gremlins. (nowadays, watching some of the repair videos, an oscilloscope can be useful, too)

Picked up a new shift knob to try since it was on sale (it's a shift solutions BK-M with the carbon fiber center piece) - looks pretty good, and I have to say I like the feel of the larger knob. Had to add a washer on top of the nut they provide (you have to put a nut on the shift lever before threading on the knob so that the knob doesn't sit too low and you can use the reverse lockout ring - it was tapping the bottom of the knob until I added the washer, now when the ring is all the way up, it has a fraction of a mm before hitting the bottom of the knob, so good to go!) - matches the interior pretty well.

C0042 is a power supply failure, C0071 is no signal from the steering angle sensor or the steering angle sensor is inoperative, and C0074 is an issue with the master cylinder pressure sensor output. I don't know if the other two are valid 5th gen OBD codes - certainly not in the service manuals that I can find. Googling, C1040 could be a wheel speed sensor issue and U0141 could be a loss of contact with the instrument panel. If it was fine before you changed the struts and got it aligned, my thought would be to get under the car and look at the wiring harnesses/connectors near the front struts/wheels, as well as near any of the alignment adjustment paths - maybe there's a short, broken wire, or unplugged connector somewhere.

21210AA160 is with the gasket and 21200AA230 is without the gasket (I have always wondered why Subaru does that) - the gasket itself (if you were to buy it separately) is 21236AA010 Does the STi thermostat flow better or something? At least for USDM MY12, both the STi and Legacy GT thermostats are fully open at 91C (F) but the STi one does start opening at a lower temperature (76-80C vs. 82-86C) but they have the same lift and bore. The one for the 2.5i is different, though - it is fully open at 95C and starts to open at 86-90C

Those look correct on the diagram (looking at parts.subaru.com which I am sure looks identical to what is on the Heuberger site (I buy from them all the time - they are right up in the colorado springs area) I remember it was a bear to find someone with the thermostat in stock when I was getting mine