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B-BGTLimited

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Posts posted by B-BGTLimited

  1. Here's the info on the yellow chromate

     

    https://caswellplating.com/yellow-chromate.html

     

    And the info on the clear/blue

     

    https://caswellplating.com/blue-chromate-8oz-makes-1-quart.html

     

    Since my rear subframe is brand new I'm coating the hell out of it with fluid film... Oil and grease is really the best preventer... LOL leaky cars have the best suspension components to pick from! :)

     

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

  2. Quite simple honestly... Caswell Copy Cad/ZINC plating kit.

     

    Additional components are two submersible heaters and a $50 DC power supply, with adjustable current, that just showed up today and improved my process over the one I was using this weekend. Plates way quicker now.

     

    Just did two swaybar brackets in 18 min. Took me over 40 min to do the power steering brackets this weekend.

    78d77d61bc839eb90dc8846e28c137b5.jpg

     

    You can also get a yellow chromate dip for after the plating, the parts will look more like the golden stuff that's already on the Subaru's.

     

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

  3. I just took apart a very rust free 06 and the rear toe adjusters were frozen solid inside the bushings. The bushing sleeve ripped and started free spinning, there was no way to get it out. I had to hack them out. So best of luck back there.

     

    Fronts may be broken free with heat... Lots of heat... You have a better chance at getting those than the rears I think.

     

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

  4. Slowly getting stuff together. Finished 90% assy on the intake setup... Few more hoses to replace.

     

    eae79112c87f5b762786f9663508e320.jpg50dfd8c7f0afdd8de1d84957d527c1cf.jpg

     

    Got front cradle and new rack in, and rear cradle and trailing arm brackets. Sprayed all above that stuff with fluid film before going in!

     

    Oh yeah don't worry the struts will be swapped with my Koni H&R combo that's on my 07 right now.

     

    Slow and steady.

     

    f7124758e6ce586b80b305c6995c8bb5.jpg

    61f9505e70c9894d4cb4d4d31afd0226.jpg

    0746d43f353673cd2818339872890632.jpg

    9fc247934349a43bfa00a44dc90bd517.jpg

     

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

  5. I cracked a ringland on #4 in a stock EJ257, running E85 at 21 psi on a 16G. Car was Cryotuned.

     

    Cryo and I talked and he suspects that things might have gotten a little hot when I was chasing down AFR instability while we were tuning, so not necessarily the motor's fault. Obvious signs of the intermediate ring butting, but not the top. When I replaced the pistons with Manleys, the recommended gaps came out to .0235 for standard B bores (mine measured very close to spec because the block only had 35k on it). That and adding the cylinder 4 cooling mod makes me fall asleep a bit easier at night :lol:

     

    Cylinder 4 cooling mod is in the pile of parts already... ;) I am going to look back and see if I can find out what I gapped my CP piston rings to on my 07 build.

     

    **Found it...

     

    I'm going to double check with my machinist when I get a call about it, I'll give him the bore spec on my piston sheet which is 3.927 and the pistons are 3.924 and see what he says. Either way I don't think the noise will bother me if there is any.

     

    I would think the only way to quite them down would be to do a skirt coating but then I would think you would have to take that thickness into consideration when sizing... then after that wears off you'd have worse clearance... LOL I may just leave it as it is and match what CP says to do, and I know if the fit is a bit tight it's not the end of the world since I will not be running this thing under excessively high load/long WOT duration and excess heat which is where most of the clearance numbers come into play big time.

     

    Now for ring gap I have numbers of .0215 for the top ring and .0255-.0295 for the second ring... That's using CP's chart for Turbo applications. Sound good?

     

    Their formula is (Bore in Inch) x .0055" for top and second is .004"-.008" larger than top

     

    Boy was I wrong about the forged piston noise not bothering me... LMAO!

    Yeah the turbo application has the largest top ring gap, the others are bore x .0045" for street/hi performance, and bore x .005" for drag racing road racing.

     

    I was thinking of doing the .0215 for the top then .0275 for the second so its right in the middle of their range.

     

    I may at least check the stock ones and go from there.

     

    I'll just be happy that this engine wont sound like it has a bad lifter or is a diesel... the forged build is getting old... lol

  6. On the discussion of new OEM Short blocks...

     

    Anyone have any input or recommendation on pulling the pistons and checking/opening up the stock ring gap since this will be pushing 19-20lbs of boost? Another safety net deal along with adding the Cylinder 4 cooling hose.

     

    Factory specs show .0079"-.0098" for top and .015"-.020" for second. So the question is, would something like .015" and .025" be beneficial?

  7. It is a stock short block, since 2011 Subaru has put the nitrided crank in all of their engines even if the original car did not come with it. I've also heard that all short blocks are built to EJ257 standards, even if the original car was a EJ255.

     

    When you go to buy a short block you have up to 3 choices now, and maybe more...

     

    04-07 Block 10103AC870

    08-16 Block 10103AC890

    18-20 Block 10103AD020

     

    I went with the 870 PN since that is supposed to be designed and setup to work with the B25 heads where the 08-16 is setup to work with the smaller CC'd D25 heads (if I have the number right) I think they have a deeper dish on the piston to accommodate that. I also know some have used the new Type RA block 18-20, but once again I believe those pistons are dished more to accept smaller CC'd heads which will further drop your static CR.

     

    Another interesting read for the EJ255 vs EJ257 as well...

    https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

  8. Well that's a OEM block for a 04-07 Legacy GT PN 10103AC870 so the right combination for my 06 heads, other parts will be Killer B oil pickup, STI 11mm oil pump, Perrin TMIC, Invidia turbo back catted exhaust, VF52, tactrix 3-port boost solenoid, DW850 injectors and DW300C fuel pump, .

     

    Nothing crazy just another daily to hopefully last me a while since I'm redoing all of the suspension and bushings at the same time.

     

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

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