B-BGTLimited

Yeah rack leaks. It's got 170,000 miles on it. it's time for a rebuild or replacement.

 

That would actually be awesome if you did write that up. I was toying with the idea of throwing in a 2015+ sti 13:1 rack, but i can't justify the cost at this time. I'd be all for rebuilding it.

Do the rebuild yourself... I went and bought a replacement rebuilt rack for my car and found out it was a slower ratio rack than what was in the 06 from the factory. I ended up using the gear and main shaft from my original and all of the seals from the new one. It was really annoying to have to take apart a freshly rebuilt rack because rebuilders don't realize the ratios are different.

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RockAuto discount code to share....Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

Code: 164365359150195931

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Now I am in my 40s and I think I will move on with a family SUV (sigh...).

 

And it is time to say goodbye to you folks........

 

Pshhhh.... Overrated.... LOL I'll be 38 in 2 months and I'm building a new 2006 LGT daily with a EJ257 and VF52. Never too old to have fun. It's still a family car...

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Wonder if this service bulletin addresses that transmission noise

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10093977-2280.pdf

That's news to me... I just replaced these bearings on my 06 since they were shot. Had to get a thinner shim to get the stackup back in tolerance but I did not know about that "dished" spacer they were adding in there. I'm running a 0.90mm washer now.

Edit* DAMN they want you to replace the whole extension housing as well with this new dished plate. Well, I'll just keep this in my back pocket for a repair option, I'm not doing it now that I just got the whole trans back together.

Got my timing covers and gaskets in so I could install the timing belt and pulleys. Of course I found out that 3 of the center cover bolts are valve cover bolts that have a shorter step so they need to be replaced. And one of the side cover bolts is too short. Only sticks through the cover about 3 threads... (of course I already cleaned them and plated them before realizing).

I swear whomever built the previous engine must have just thrown all the bolts in a box and grabbed randomly when they put the heads on. As well as they must have used parts from an automatic car since the left rear cover didn't have the corner belt guide so I had to replace that as well. Right side inner was broke, front center was cracked, and left inner was for AT not MT... I just bought all new covers lol.

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2nd vote for Peak Global Lifetime. I run it in all of my cars.

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Yeah to be honest I looked at the 06 service manual and didn't see any good diagrams for it... I guess I was just tired of looking at parts diagrams since it typically results in a $100+ parts order so I didn't even think to see what that exploded view was... LMAO

Thanks again tho.

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With all your knowledge, you can figure it out, don't worry. Just be mind full of how the crossmember is taken apart. its easy once you see it.

 

I had no problem using these.

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Thanks, I couldn't find a good walk through that identified where they went since many of the aftermarket ones are all the same thickness.

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Yeah talking about these... There is one thick one which goes in the front, I think, since the bolts are long enough for the longer bushing sleeves. But I'm not sure if it goes on or top or the bottom. Logically I feel like it should be on the bottom.

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Realized the motor I tore apart had a left side AT timing cover on it without the belt guide next to the pulley.... Ugh... Add it to my list of parts!

Oh anyone know where the thick cross member bushing goes? Right now I have it on the front bottom position.

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Awesome thanks, I looked in and could see them. That also told me the LR wasn't seated enough, which is why it was not feeling right to me, and just needed more force!

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Are the rear axles supposed to have a C-clip that goes into the diff just like the fronts do?

These are the ones that I pulled from this car and for all I know they are original... Neither one had a clip.

Front axle clip picture for reference.

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Measured out the mains on the RA block. All in size spec per FSM, with the #4 and #5 mains slightly out of form if the crank journal tolerances translate to the journals in the block as well. Local machine shop will line hone mains to true them up, King pmax XPC bearings, a set of rods because I might as well, and off we go again. Now the 5 speed can be the fusible link in the system.

 

Maybe if I quit breaking stuff I can actually find time to focus on the ten other things I need to do...

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Yeah very noisy on decel, only changed the disc and plate and the noise went away completely. If I ever do an aftermarket clutch again it will probably be a SPEC or just stick with the Exedy HD if that holds up to my setup.

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A couple things. I installed the Harmon Kardon stereo from '09 models in my '05 aver a year ago. The only janky part is the power for the amp is pulled off of the power to the head unit. There is a fuse in the '05 engine bay fuse box that is labeled 'audio amp'. Just did some poking and prodding with my DMM, and that fuse does absolutely nothing. There is no output pin tied to that fuse on the '05. Curious. (this was more of a The More Ya Know kind of comment). I'll either swap in an '09 fuse/relay holder (if they are 1:1 where it matters) or get a mini-fuse tap to properly run power to HK amp.

 

 

Also some talk earlier by others about making a heat shield for the driver side CV boot, has me inspired. Found these two mounting points to work off of (shinny bolts in the unused mounting holes for reference). Add it to the list of things to do.....at least it will be easier with the engine out

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I still need to get these numbers off my downpipe and see what I can get... I could use the extra cash lately with my 06 build... LOL

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The engine is getting pretty... And yes I sprayed it with clear coat... LMAO.

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This may help.

 

 

http:// https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

This is where I got my information from, and from everything I read on there my 06 block that I had, and that I got is basically a STI motor from the beginning anyways, including reusing my B25 heads. Only noted improvement on the RA blocks is the rods too, which I haven't had any issues with so I don't see the need for them at my target power level.

Yeah I went from a 2-bay garage/house to a 7-bay garages/house. Still managed to fill every bay and my ass parks outside... lmao

My current 2-bay "Shop" is in this post https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6008123&postcount=4464

3 bay garage has the Wife's car, a Beretta and a Triumph Spitfire.

2 bay under the house has 2 more Beretta's.

Yes I have a car problem.

Call me crazy, but aren't the newer D25 heads smaller CC's than the B25's meaning Subaru enlarged the piston dish to accommodate that change on the newer EJ257 blocks... which in turn when you combine a newer EJ257 D25 block with the B25 heads you end up with lower compression out of the gate?

Has anyone actually measured this stuff?

This is why I went with the short block specific for my 06 year. They are all EJ257 spec and they use the nitride cranks in all short blocks now, also the differences between previous years and the new Type RA haven't been proven to be exceedingly better IMO.

I'd also check your setup... my 07 IIRC is the start of the D25 heads, vs my 06 is the B25 setup. My 07 LGT Limited has the air pump system vs the catted up pipe which designates the head change.

I noticed that swapping back to oem epdm exhaust hangers drastically reduced the decel noise from the transmission. I suspect it's because of the downpipe to transmission bolt that did it. I had poly hangers forever until recently. New rubber hangers has been great for the trans noises.

I've always had factory rubber hangers on my system. As someone else noted, for some reason the CM clutches are just REALLY noisy.

I got my box of coolant hoses yesterday and the bearings for the trans that I'm replacing... Also ordered the two timing cover pieces that I needed and I should have my transfer case gasket tonight.

I may actually be able to install the rear diff, axles, driveshaft and trans this weekend if the planets align... Then its just a few other engine items and it's start up time.