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Posts posted by B-BGTLimited
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HAHA, I'm in the NE corner of CT during the day and Central East side when at home...
I even drive to a bunch of VMRS racing events in NH and never get spotted. I was just up at Monadnock last Saturday.
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I'm pretty easy to spot, but never have been spotted...
http://cupcakesandkiwis.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tumblr_llj2av7ijm1qzdb5a.jpeg
But for anyone in my area looking... OMG AWD is my plate and Gimmick exhaust... other than that it looks stock, only lowered 1"...
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What does an H6 sound like with this done?
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Who was at uconn today?
I was but with the car in my avitar
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(how many engineers does it take to...).
Typically more than it should.... LOL
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You are doing it because the gears on the drivers side are in the middle of opening a valve so there is spring preload and due to the shape of a cam lobe the gear will just want to spin if its only partially open... clamping the to together positions the gears where they need to be so you can line up the rest of the marks and slide the belt on. The passenger side is not in the process of opening any valves so thats why that side will just stay where you set them.
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quite possibly nothing but I've had a few issues with dayco belts, so if that runs into the timing belts they make I don't want anything to do with it.
RockAuto has the kits for ~280 for Gates and ~330 for the Gates Racing kit.
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I personally wouldn't cheap out on something this vital...
Send FredBeans a PM, they have a Gates kit listed at $345 maybe they can work on that price a bit more.
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Since I'm never spotted I saw my car this morning in the parking lot. Lookin good Steve.
Join the club...
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The LGT's stock brakes are way too close to the inside of my 17" rims, I just can't see 16's fitting around those.
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The Air pump itself has an inlet where it pulls in fresh outside air to pump into the exhaust ports on the head.
Our systems are used only to bring the exhaust gas temps higher right at start up to activate the cat quicker and lessen the time that it's not working efficiently.
Secondary air injection
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Secondary air injection (commonly known as air injection, or colloquially smog pump) is a vehicle emissions control strategy introduced in 1966, wherein fresh air is injected into the exhaust stream to allow for a fuller combustion of exhaust gases.
Contents
[hide]
[edit] Development
The mechanism by which exhaust emissions are controlled depends on the method of injection and the point at which air enters the exhaust system, and has varied during the course of the development of the technology.
The first systems injected air very close to the engine, either in the cylinder head's exhaust ports or in the exhaust manifold. These systems provided oxygen to oxidize (burn) unburned and partially-burned fuel in the exhaust before its ejection from the tailpipe. There was significant unburned and partially-burned fuel in the exhaust of 1960s and early 1970s vehicles, and so secondary air injection significantly reduced tailpipe emissions. However, the extra heat of recombustion, particularly with an excessively rich exhaust caused by misfiring or a maladjusted carburetor, tended to damage exhaust valves and could even be seen to cause the exhaust manifold to incandesce.
As emission control strategies grew more sophisticated and effective, the amount of unburned and partially-burned fuel in the exhaust stream shrank, and particularly when the catalytic converter was introduced, the function of secondary air injection shifted. Rather than being a primary emission control device, the secondary air injection system was adapted to support the efficient function of the catalytic converter. The original air injection point became known as the upstream injection point. When the engine is cold, air injected at this point cleans up the extra-rich exhaust and raises the temperature of the exhaust so as to bring the catalytic converter to operating temperature quickly. Once the engine is warm, air is injected to the downstream location — the catalytic converter itself — to assist with catalysis of unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide.
[edit] Methods of implementation
[edit] Pumped air injection
Pumped air injection systems use a vane pump turned by the engine via a belt. The pump's air intake is centrifugally filtered by a rotating screen to exclude dirt particles large enough to damage the system. Air is delivered under pressure to the injection point(s). A check valve prevents exhaust forcing its way back through the air injection system, which would damage the pump and other components.
Carbureted engines' exhaust raw fuel content tends to spike when the driver suddenly releases the throttle. To prevent the startling and potentially damaging effects of the explosive combustion of this raw fuel, a diverter valve is used. This valve senses the sharp increase in intake manifold vacuum resulting from the sudden closure of the throttle, and diverts the air pump's outlet to atmosphere. Usually this diverted air is routed to the engine air cleaner or to a separate silencer to muffle objectionable pump noise.
[edit] Aspirated air injection
Air injection can also be achieved by taking advantage of the negative pressure pulses in the exhaust system at engine idle. A sensitive reed valve assembly called the aspirator valve is placed in the air injection plumbing, which draws its air directly from the clean side of the air filter. During engine idle, brief but periodic negative pressure pulses in the exhaust system draw air through the aspirator valve and into the exhaust stream at the catalytic converter. This system, marketed as Pulse Air, was used by American Motors, Chrysler, and other manufacturers beginning in the 1970s. The aspirator provided advantages in cost, weight, packaging, and simplicity compared to the pump, but the aspirator functions only at idle and so admits significantly less air within a significantly narrower range of engine speeds compared to a pump. This system is still used on modern motorcycle engines, e.g. the Yamaha AIS (Air Injection System).
[edit] See also
[edit] External links
- Jeep Adventures Under the Hood A detailed guide on the CEC system and how to tune it
- Details with diagrams of the Chevrolet Camaro AIR system www.camaros.org
I had to delete these ports on one of the 3400's I built for my Beretta since they had them on some Malibu's back in 2000
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Beretta/installed1.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Beretta/smoothport.jpg
Notice it was only on two ports too... Very odd.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Beretta/DSCN0579.jpg
- Jeep Adventures Under the Hood A detailed guide on the CEC system and how to tune it
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Blue LGT on the 395 North this AM... Got off at RT 101 exit 93... Looked completly stock, You turned into the Jewett City Savings Bank.
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I don't even think they would be allowed to test it during a startup procedure, that's just completely unfair since the cat itsn't even fired off yet.
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I looked at them to quick, I thought they were at least two layers.
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I missed that post... But yeah if you have an 07 motor why would you be looking for an 05 setup for plates? You need to reference parts for whatever your engine came from. Its the same with my Beretta... Thats and 05 engine in a 96 car... with a 96 trans and 04 heads, and 00 brakes and yeah you get my point... only the shell is a 96.
Also why not just re-use the gaskets that come off the pipes? Being they are MLS type gaskets you will probably be able to re-use them with no issues.
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That might be because an 05 has the up pipe cat and not the air pump system... its an 07+ substitute for that up pipe cat.
Hence the title of this thread "2007-2009"
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I'll probably do this when I go to replace my intake gasket set. Had some starting issues in the winter and everyone points to the intake gaskets as being the culprit... It also probably wouldn't hurt to give my top end and TVG's a good cleaning.
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I'm waiting to do mine when I do my headers and up pipe... I think getting to the right side tube and solenoid will be MUCH easier with the turbo out. I think either that way, or removing the whole intake plenum is the way to go, and I don't need to pull that quite yet... I probably should to do the gaskets though since they gave me issues when it was cold out.
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LGT Wagon with redish wheels in Plainfield this AM, you were getting off rt 14 and turning on to 12 south. I was at the Mobil gas station with my OBP LGT, Gave you a wave and you waved back.
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Most of it is all plastic, but in the first post he said he took out about 10lbs of crap taking up engine bay space.
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http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-10/air-pump-delete-block/Detail
Way cheaper... I also bought the gaskets on this site as well. Still haven't had the chance to do it yet.
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When there are Franklins involved, there is always a way.
I've never had to open my wallet to pass an emissions test and I'd like to keep it that way.
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Its very easy to just drop the pump back in with that one side vent still there... And obviously the solenoid will be gone... but I doubt they would look that far.
I'm curious how well it will pass emissions though with romraider disabling codes. I know I have to do it a certain way on my GM for the tests to still pass even though the components are missing.
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Saw a blue 08-09 2.5i on rt6 today right after the truck weigh spot. Gave ya a little pull as you came up on me and yes my car is filthy... It's been on jackstands for 2 1/2 weeks. Finally got stage 2.
Official North East Spotted Thread
in New England
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