Perscitus

Correct, IAT temp is taken into account (just a bit, to tweak MAF readings based on implied air density and then more widely when the AAT and IAT delta is something like 90F-100F or more) but humidity is not taken into account by the ECU based on any of the sensor inputs. Once out IAT passes about 100F, timing is pulled about 1 degree globally every 10-15F.

Yup. My brother's was tuned by AMR using Ecutek. Its at Stage 1+, putting out ~ 340-360ft-lbf at the crank. Going Stage 2 in a month or so. Thus far there are a couple 2015 WRX CVTs at Stage 2 and even burning E30, E50 or E85 blends over at NASIOC and their FB group. A mix of Ecutek and COBB tunes. The transmission seems to be able to handle a decent bump in torque output even above JDM spec (295ft-lbf). What's the 'boom' threshold, no one knows yet.... including FHI/SoJ/SoA... maybe Jatco does I think what helps it transmit such relatively high torque is the inclusion of a mini TC between the crank and the titanium chain on the CVT cogs.

Good news Golferdude! Looking forward to it. Interesting news from Raptor....

JDM and recent/current-gen STI thermostat (part # ending AA072) confirmed to fit on our cars. Its rated ~6C lower initial opening temp than the stock EZ36D thermostat. Based on initial drives city traffic, mixed and all highway car seems to like it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4989095&postcount=14760 Coolant flush was very easy since our thermostat and drain plugs are both on the bottom, opposite sides. Thermostat housing is partially blocked by the drivers side headers but still reachable even with the Raptor parts. While at it, we also flipped the Whiteline RSB and readjusted the end links. Clears the spare tire hump perfectly now and seems to ride better over potholes, concrete, speed bumps, sharp corners, etc. I havent noticed any adverse effects yet.

AMR has sensed your disturbance in the Shrek force and like it. In case you end up needing TPS tuning or some tweaks to requested torque or DBW related tables, you know who to call...

Yes, that will work for Throttle re-learn. Disconnect negative lead Drain any phantom charges (push the brake pedal in for 15+ seconds or even better attempt to crank the car with the battery disconnected - the starter drains any phantom charges nice and quick!) Reconnect battery Put the key in to position - wait ~20 seconds (you might hear the butterfly valve and/or clicks from the throttle body area as it calibrates itself). Repeat a few times. Cold start, let idle for a bit (say coolant temp >120F) Shut down Warm start, let idle for a bit (see how it holds RPMs) Go to 1K, 1.5K, 2K, 2.5K, 3K, back to idle. Go for a drive

Doing some BtSsm QA work for our H6s... http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5073987&postcount=448

Youll want to pickup some rear LCAs with camber adjustment to dial that rear negative camber back. By itself its not a bad thing, but your front camber should ideally be about -.25 to -.5 more than the back. Id recommend Front Camber L/R -1.0 or -1.2 Rear camber L/R -.8 to -1.0

A few moarh BtSsm screenshots from today. My home thermometer is showing -16C right now so the Legacy is resting again, with a freshly trickle re-charged battery.

BtSsm is now working on our engines! And it rocks! Quick trip around town, getting the hang of the default visible/loggable params. Will be able to add much more custom stuff based on their addresses from Ecutek software suite (will need to get that info from Rob @ AMR) I checked out some early LVs (Learned Values) and logged for a bit too (using rear defrost button to toggle logging on/off). Polling rate is awesome and a few of the params I looked at are actually either more accurate or respond to operating condition changes better/faster than their generic OBDII counterparts (MAF, AFR, IAT).

BtSsm dev heiche is awesome... already (likely) fixed. Will test tomorrow. 5F out now so I'll pass on going outside, lol http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5065712&postcount=421

No luck just yet with BtSsm... its connecting just fine to its own dongle and detecting the ECU, but doesn't support our EZ36D yet. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5065705&postcount=420 So for now, I switched back to Torque Pro and let the car run for 20-30 minutes to warm up and charge the battery.

Unsp0kn - that LGT exhaust sounds great! Prime choice components too. Love it. Here is my H6 contribution to the thread: - RAPTOR EZ36D SS headers (2.25" ID) - AMR/AUTOMASTER custom header-back Catted SS mid-pipe with SS flex coupler (re-using stock cats in stock locations but with 2.25->2.5->3.0" ID) - VIBRANT UltraQuiet 1142 Resonator (3.0" ID) - MAGNAFLOW 16377 Catback Exhaust (3.0" ID) (warm start and some throttle) (WOT pull from 12 sec)

Fredrik, you got the bolt-on kind right? Looks like thats the 'right' one for our application. Check out this thread, you will see some of the DBW issues reported... but its nothing that cant be tuned out. I hope on our engines too. Last Jan they ran a great 30% off sale. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2499274

Intake Manifold: 14001AB880 Intake Manifold Gasket: 14035AA460 (need 6?) Throttle Body: 16112AA320 https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.PartInfo&PartNumber=14001AB880&VehicleID=378665&diagram=7526295&Title%3D%2D3%2E6%2DLITER%2DINTAKE%2DMANIFOLD http://sspparts.com/buy-used/2009-Subaru-LEGACY-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-AT-P-14001AB880/13804-1 http://sspparts.com/buy-used/2012-Subaru-Outback-Legacy-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-AT-P-14001AB880/6681-1

Scrubbing Bubbles! Ideally the 'flavor' that starts blue when sprayed and turns white. It's also great for engine bay cleaning as it will not harm out aluminum blocks, timing chain covers, etc. https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQcBptaKFEtoPmxEp5hoXHiM1toXkVrTLJFZYAnu3J-xdEeol-Y&usqp=CAY Did I mention pics?! Pics, IDs, Pics Pics Pics Holy price shock! Don't tell us you need one.

Good news and good info on the 08+ STI TB/DBW setup and compatibility. I've done some research from another angle and I think I'll give this mod (replacement larger bore TB or a bored out, port/polished stock TB) a pass for now . Some of the reasons behind this for me are: a. velocity change (drop) with most bored out TBs on NA applications (don't want to sacrifice low-end torque for top-end flow and power gain for DD) b. manifold porting issue (vs leaving a stock manifold ID against a bored out TB outlet ID causing turbulence, etc.) c. potential TPS calibration issues (change in closed throttle, WOT reported TPS positions, change in throttle open % vs butterfly valve angle) d. potential idle issues As much as I feel that a 65mm throttle is likely too small and a restriction on a 3.6L H6 (I see TBs destined for similar displacement engines bored to 74-80mm), I think that Subaru likely designed the intake manifold around or at least together with this 65mm TB they decided to slap on the 3.6L. Changing its geometry must have an effect on NA air velocity and how its maintained (or not) within the manifold and on to the cylinders. Even if we don't get any adverse effects from increasing the bore, tuning to take advantage of it AND calibrate it properly might prove tricky. I'll run the idea by Rob and see what he thinks - if its even worth say taking my stock TB off and boring it out a bit while keeping the butterfly valve as-is and leaving the diameter there @ 65mm. https://www.thefastman.com/throttlebodiesDBW36.php

I'm going to return this TB. My auto mechanic buddies confirmed its been submerged. Leaving the state of the DBW electronics, TPS, etc in question. Id rather not risk finding that out after maxbore makes this a 300 paperweight.

Got the donor throttle body in the mail today. Its not as clean as my 2010 or your 2011 unit Steve! Almost looks like its seen a few Pacific North-West winters or a bath in salt water... Parts seller (Spalding Auto Parts in WA) quoted a 2013 with 600 miles on the ODO - my #$^%, but it seems to be in good shape. I took some measurements and moarh off-the-car pics: Intake tube facing Inlet OD: 75mm Intake tube facing Inlet ID: ~71mm Intake Manifold facing ID OD: ~65mm Butterfly Valve: 65mm (by this, a stock 3.6R DBW Throttle Body is considered a TRUE 65mm bore TB) Throttle body depth: 70mm

Did some initial checks on the PRS LWCP. Car parked for a week, cold engine. No oil or oil residue below the car, on the crankcase cover, anywhere around the pulley. Removed the crank bolt cover, no oil or signs of prior leaks there. Removed accessory belt and checked for pulley play - none. Replaced belt, started her up. No wobble, no leaks while idling or at 1.5, 2, 3K RPM. Ran the engine until fully warmed up. Coolant temp ~195-200F. No leaks... yet. Next up will be full pulley removal to inspect the crank seal and any damage to the pulley surface itself. I will do this when then new seal comes in. So far so good... even though I know inside the groove might have developed or is starting to develop and has either already or will potentially start to eat away at the crank seal. Hopefully not.

You're better off having them ceramic coated. Too many headaches with wrapping, high possibility of metal 'rot' given where they're located on the 3.6R. Plus with the amount of runners and header geometry, wrapping would be tricky and you'd likely need to wrap all the runners together with one pass. On an NA car, having them coated is only going to give modest gains (plus I have not seen any measurable engine bay temp increase with un-coated Raptor SS headers). Coating them would be a very good idea on a supercharged 3.6R or any turbocharged Subaru engine.

I'll have a look at my OEM pulley too when I get to my Storage location.

Purchased! I called the seller and it looks like the donor car was a 2013 Legacy 3.6R with less than 1K miles on the ODO before being totaled. I also got a reply back from MaxBore: Here are some pics of TBs he's done, including some old WRXs: http://www.maxbore.com/pictures.html

I'm thinking of picking this one up and having it cleaned, port/polished by MaxBore, installed and tuned for @ AMR: http://www.ebay.com/itm/361133044034?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Pics: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4959651&postcount=994 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4960336&postcount=1006 Dyno Plot: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4959653&postcount=995 Videos: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4960065&postcount=1005 I will have more pics up soon, showing the whole exhaust setup upstream of the catback/resonator.