Perscitus

I will likely remove it and do a visual inspection - if its not bad or I just see faint grooves, then I will likely keep it on. Potentially use the new seal while at it. The Infiniti/Nissan forums suggest that once it starts, the oil leak is significant ~1qt/week. The accessory/serpentine belt 'helps' to distribute it and bathe the engine bay.

Good questions Rob. Giovanni should know for sure, but my guess is yes, we just swap the seal and OEM pulley and call it a day. On the second question, I think that's likely OK if it gets to that. The timing chains, crankcase cover are normally bathed in oil.

Here is our little friend, part # 2, front crank seal. $5 from subaruonlineparts...

Based on this, I bet the Infamous Performance LGT pulley will likely suffer from the same issue on the LGT EJ25s.... ;( http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-light-weight-crank-pulleys-229778.html?t=229778

Good point Fredrik! ItalianLegacy - where art thou? Stop working already!

We need Giovanni to chip in with the details. From what he told me, what we see on the pulley itself is a result of the pulley eating away at the crankcase and taking some of the crank seal with it. When the pulley was removed, the crank seal needed to be replaced - that's where Giovanni had an oil leak. It might very well be a mix of install error and supercharger accessories/pulley/bracket/belt combo.

Yeah, that's the issue - the groove around the shaft is not supposed to be there (hence the exposed raw aluminum, instead of all-blue surface when new). The notch and key area seems fine to me looking at those pics. Giovanni told me that the crankcase itself caused this damage near the seal and he had to replace the seal when installing the stock pulley back. Yep, agreed on all accounts. This is the damage that Giovanni noticed but only once they removed the pulley to inspect. The grove all around, where we can see the 'raw' aluminum without the anodized finish. Yes, I also see a few channels there - 2 main ones. I'm also hoping we'll learn that this is either a case of: a. install issue/error b. tandem of Raptor SC and PRS LWCP not being good Giovanni should be able to chip in later with more info. I'm also curious what were the exact symptoms/signs, if the sound of the pulleys rotating now with the stock CP back in place is any different than with the LWCP. Plus I guess we will know more when one of us with the NA motors pulls the pulley to see if the same type of wear pattern can be seen. I will do it, just not sure when I can get to it.

That's my thought too Fredrik. I hope its the case. Check out these pics from Giovanni.

Tim is usually good in replying. Try him on here too (user: Trade Wind; search a few pages back). And or register on Club Liberty Asn Au and ping him in the Raptor section: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewforum.php?f=65

Giovanni just found a potential serious issue/flaw with the PRS Pleasure Racing LWCP. He and I'm assuming ECS/Paul have traced an oil leak to the LWCP! Removal of the pulley confirmed a clearance/fitment issue where the pulley's inner key'ed shaft eats away at the crankcase seal... causing a deep gash around the pulley itself and eating away at the oil seal itself. We've emailed Ohashi @ PRS about this. Stay tuned. I will also get to removing and inspecting mine, swapping the OEM pulley back in if I find the same issue.

http://www.proflowdesign.com/tbsub.htm http://maxbore.com/ Grimspeed offers port and polish as a service too. I have also found a used TB off of a wrecked 2013 3.6R for $160.

Good find. Add the 2015 3.6R to the list, same manifold, made by Tokyo Roki for Subaru: http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49226349&ukey_assembly=6026544 http://www.roki.co.jp/english/manifold.html Notice our little H6 'face hugger' friend in the upper right hand corner? http://www.roki.co.jp/english/products/images/manifold04.jpg I've also found the HT/Lineatronic-CVT OEM oil cooler listed as one of their products/assemblies. Also found this interesting thread with some good info. Guy bolted up an old cast intake manifold from an 2003/4 EZ30 to a newer motor. http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31494 (see page 1, 5, 6 etc) http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1006664&postcount=127 - looky here! http://www.rs25.com/forums/f168/t184760-skunk2-dbw-big-bore-throttle-body.html

I hope this fits, great find Fredrik. Looks like it just might. Likely a bit better than port/polish since its unlikely we can increase the ID so much throughout on the OEM part. AMR told me they can port/polish mine NP.

You know what they say about the quiet/proper ones...

Made me blush

Blackstone OSA results are in after a 5K mile oil change last weekend with 57K on the odo. Looks good to me! The viscosity results on the 'spent' oil prove that either Nanotech Lubricants Additive and/or a few K miles of #becauseracecar use cause our oils to exhibit slightly higher viscosity then the tech specs would suggest for used stock. If its the Nanotech Additive, then its doing one of its jobs - providing better lubrication and higher viscosity under load on top of the stock fill (as advertized). If its not the Additive, then the oil has sheered down to a lower grade - part of the reason behind running xW40 when the manual calls for xW30.... instead of sheering down to a 20 weight, a 40 weight will with time sheer down to a high end of the 30 weight viscosity range. I bet the cause is somewhere in the middle between these two. I've seen the same behavior with my brother's FA20DIT where a 5W40 exhibited 5W30 viscosity characteristics after 3.5-5K miles of use. A lot of guys over @ Bob's the oil Guy and NASIOC reported the same happening to their 5W30 fills sheering down to 5W20 specs. Fine for fuel consumption, not so good for engine protection/lubrication, AVCS, spun bearings, etc. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/

I haven't, royal PITA on our H6s with where the spark plugs are, especially if you need to check the rear cylinder pair. Compression ratio should be 10.5-10.7:1 stock. But I don't have any in-cylinder pressure readings. Check with Tim or Rob at AMR. I bet they have some compression results since when they turbo'ed the engines, they rebuilt lowering compression a bit. http://www.graveyardmotorsports.com/product_p/gm%2099-3530.htm Keep in mind the 10.x:1 is a static compression ratio, a dynamic equivalent is usually lower say 7.5 or 8 to 1. With that there is a direct correlation between the compression ratio and in-cylinder pressure ratio... With a 10.x:1 static ratio spec, we should be seeing 160-190psi from the cylinder pressure gauge (I've already subtracted atmospheric 14.6x/14.7x). Nominal compression pressure.pdf

StevesH6 is our new resident thread troll, he's cute and special like that. Steve - how about a build or at least a golden thoughts of the day thread? You can quote and multi-quote yourself, and criticize each reply.

Phantom ESC spool up time from idle to max RPM ~ 500ms now. That's for the latest revision of the TQ250 24-28V model (the one used in the FT86/BRZ/FRS v2.0 kits) A 4kW brush-less motor with sealed ceramic bearings, supporting up to ~ 400CFMs and building up to 5psi MAP. There is also a larger TQ300 model in R&D right now, which would be needed for something such as the H6 3.6R or any NA engine outputting >240-250BHP. The key requirement here is the 'air-pump's' flow characteristics and air appetite, displacement is irrelevant. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2075844&postcount=8125 http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/fts-tq25024v.html

GimpyDingo - have you read any of the 372 pages of the FT86Club thread? Compressor maps, dyno plots, auto-x ongoing R&D results galore. Its true that MOST of the eSC solutions out there (especially last decade) do nothing, but this one and most likely Gborja's kit actually do work and create ~3-5psi of boost (mind you that's 'just' .25-.3 atms above ambient, but still impressive for such an electric 'hair dryer') under WOT. Have you seen Audi's, Volvo's or Mercedes' latest proof-of-concepts? I guess their engineers don't know what they're doing either... http://www.autonews.com/article/20140803/OEM10/308049992/electric-turbocharger-eliminates-lag-valeo-says http://autoweek.com/article/car-news/volvos-new-electric-supercharger-explained http://www.autoevolution.com/news/electric-superchargers-the-next-big-thing-for-the-automotive-industry-88356.html

Nice, looking forward to results. I've contacted Phantom Superchargers (ESC) in the past for solution for our engines (2.5i, LGT, 3.6) but they were too busy with the BRZ and other solutions. BRZ guys have had great luck with the latest gen units, gaining almost as much whp/wtq over stock as traditional mechanical/parasitic compressors. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39719 http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/scion-frssubaru-brz.html

If you're thinking ABE, pickup something from Nameless Performance or perhaps Magnaflow/Borla mufflers. You shouldn't introduce any excess drone with an ABE alone. You'd need to change the mid-pipe/y-pipe or other components to do that on the 3.6R, especially in terms of ID and overall length. But, in case the ABE proves too much at certain RPMs (especially those loved by the EZ36D+5EAT combo), then either add a Vibrant resonator upstream (as far up as you can) or consider a helmholtz resonator j-pipe (see Fredrik's build). Both will mellow things down a good order of dBs. PS - If ARK ever offered an ABE for the 3.6R, I'd vote ARK GRIP hands down...

Custom paint job by Lightwerkz in NJ.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing. How much btq or wtq did it put down at Stage 1? Will be great to know what the 5EAT here sees as he goes Stage 2 too.