dgoodhue

Alternator whine through the radio is almost always due to grounding issue. On one of my vehicle I did a stereo I had a whine and I thought I had grabbed a good gnd. It had a whine and when I looked at it in closer detail I realized the floor panel I grounded it to had was mostly had an adhesive to the rest of the floor and and it just a had a couple tack welds.

Motul 300 is an improvement over the stock oil filled from the factory even in cold weather. It is still isn’t easy on cold days (MA). The extraMT is much easier on cold day. . I am in the metro Boston Area. If you want to drive down fine NH, I will sell you enough extra MT oil for a fill.

Have you removed your down pipe and actually checked to see if the turbo has any play in it?

If it was my car, I would pull the shifter assembly to see if something failed with in that and is binding everything up. You description doesn't sound good. I had an issue where the delivery driver didn't lift up on the reverse lock out and force that over.

Just be prepare for turbo and/or short block replacement for 05-09 EJ255's. If the cost and/or work of that job scare you off, the 05-09 Turbo isn't for you. With the burnt valve/blown head gasket repairs of the 5th Gen GT, the same thing can be said about those.

Subaru publishes equivalents. 3M™ HighStrength Threadlocker 08730 is the equivalent for Three Bond 1324.

In looking at the service manual, I think the 6MT models only has 2 sensors, one for the neutral and one for reverse. In looking at the online parts interchange those parts are interchangeable.

I found many shops charge for programming the sensors and/or charge an exorbitant amount for the sensors.

Just because the engine doesn't set any engine codes, doesn't mean the ECM is compensating for the displacement or is tuned properly. You would need to data log the engine to verify. Most likely it will need to be tuned like the EJ20X & Y engines or it is going to end up like the last engine if its driven at WOT.

I would check your tires to make sure the tire depths are even. Usually the center differential going out is because someone replaced 2 tires instead of all 4 or a tire was damaged and they installed one new tire.

Are you getting a P420 code? Even if you are not getting that exact code, I would follow the engine diagnostic flow charts. Many time the catalytic code is a failing sensor or its an exhaust leak. Those are much more common than a failing catalytic converter.

Good thing I didn't see this wagon in time, I probably wouldn't have been able to resist buying it...

Have you tried looking the code up in the service manual and looking at the diagnostic flow chart? It seem a like unlikely coincidence that the same issue happened with both transmissions. It is possible, but the problem may not be your CVT.

Ugh, they scratched or cracked my dash in my Legacy when they did the air bag recall. I just noticed it today (i only drive my car once a week) and I picked it up in the dark.

The short throw shifter in themselves reduce a lot of the slop of shifter. The 15+ WRX (not the STI) fit our cars.

Those are still huge. My perspective though is as a long time GMC Syclone owner...

I don't know what kind of lawnmower you have, but my friends F150 3.5TT sounds nothing like it. I would rather have the 3.5TT, with a tune it a lot faster than 5.0. The only turbo engine I have driven that I thought sounded horrible from the factory was the Jeep 2.0T. My neighbor kid has an older CRV (slammed, stretched times, with lot of camber) with some aftermarket exhaust (maybe no cat) that does actual sound like a lawn mower. When he 1st did the exhaust, the 1st time I noticed was him starting it up at 6am and I woke up wondering who the hell is mowing their lawn at that time.

Yesterday, I got my 2nd air bag and the parking brake recalls done at the dealership. I went to the showroom and they had just tables where the new cars usually were. I walked around parking which was really bare. I thought they had OBXT, but was someone car. They had an LXT but it was used. In walking around, I realized that they only had 1 new car on the lot. In the back of lot was 4th Gen Spec.b which was sitting really high in the front. Likely the engine was out and it was a YNASB candidate.

I looked at the interchange of parts for STI, not the RA short block. The crank was the same, the rods in the STI changed in the later ones, but the 5th Gen used the earlier EJ257 rods which is also share with most if not all the rest of the EJ255 motors. The EJ255 in the 5th Gen is really a cross between the the EJ255 and EJ257 motors with smaller exhaust cams and the pre FA20 low mount turbo setup. Yes most site ignore the 5th Gen or assume they are the same. I went to a place where they were parting out a 2010 GT. The engine had been taken and the transmission was laying on the ground. One of the E25 heads (5th Gen head) was on the ground. I made a comment to the seller about the head on the ground. He said something along the lines of that he bought the car for the transmission and didn't realize about the cable mounted shifter. He sold the engine to friend and did realize that this EJ255 was so different.

I am almost guarantee that it is the drain plug crush gasket. On my 1st Subaru, I decide to reuse them for a few times. After one of them leaked, I decide to never do that again.

I would get a 5th Gen GT EJ255 for the oil pan bolts. You don't have to omit an oil pan bolt & drill tap the bolt for the extra bolt that 5th Gen have. The 5th Gen also have different pistons/heads (E25) than the other EJ255/EJ257. It still isn't clear what our compression is 9.5:1 or 8.4:1. I kind of want to CC the 5th Gen heads and pistons, but I don't want to spend the money on the equipment, which I don't know if I will ever use again. (I am done with building up motors with ported heads/different pistons etc, I will just buy a faster car from the factory)

As mentioned, the exhaust valve eroded from being open, so it wasn't large chunks going through your turbo, cat and exhaust. I wouldn't worry about it. As for the 325-350hp, is the whp or crank hp? They do about that at the crank with a dyno tune. You can keep it simple on repair and just rebuild the heads and install ARP head studs. It is up to you whether or not get a new short or install new bearings/rings. With just the tune you can get away with the stock clutch. My car has a catback exhaust, dyno tune and upgrade bypass valve and it made 292awhp/340wtq. I use the stock clutch. If you want more (235-2350awhp) you really need an upgraded clutch, down pipe, and turbo upgrade. You also probably should do the STI exhaust cams while you have it apart, it might not be a bad idea to even do that on stock motor if you going to get it dyno tuned.

Someone must has used a cheap quality aftermarket exhaust. From my experience with 5th Gen (I have owned 2010, 2011, and 2x 2012) in Northeast, I can see the factory exhaust lasting 8 years in salt belt environment (the rear muffler flanges seem to be the parts corrodes the quickest). No way would it rust through two factory quality exhaust in 10 years.

There is 'walk (talk) through on engine removal in this section'. I can't imagine it being all the different than the 4th gen. The biggest difference is that you want to disconnect the exhaust manifolds, turbo, and turbo connections and remove them from underneath not with the motor. The engine has 1 motor mount in front, the other 2 'motor mounts' are on the transmission.

People have used EJ257 block, they just leave 2 bolts out or drill and tap one of the bolts. I read the casting is thick for the bolt holes too, but I can not confirm that. I only have 2010-2012 EJ255 motors.