dgoodhue

171,400 miles. Gray. Limited model (leather) The motor and heads were just rebuilt about 50 miles ago. I didn't cut any corners, new timing belt, clutch, many new heats shields, hoses, etc as needed.

I will be putting my 2010 GT up for sale later this week. I brought it to the dealer this morning to get the ABS bled and 3 warranty recalls complete (wiper motor, passenger air bag and e-brake).

They last about 10 years. If you are replacing your tires, I would replace them. My 2009 Outback had at least 2 TPMS sensor that stopped working on cold days the winter of 2019. The sensors work again in spring 2020 and then stopped working all together in the fall of 2020. At least of the 2 sensor were dead on the 2010 GT that I am repairing. I bought OEM sensors on ebay for $85 for 4. I am not sure if they were knock offs but they looked oem and came in Subaru bags. For my 2012 GT, I bought OEM from the online dealer for $50/per sensor. I got lazy on my 2009 Outback and just bought them from the tire installer, they charged me $80/sensor for aftermarkets.

This is another WTF moment, I can't believe someone was driving around in this car with a knocking engine, misfiring, with screeching metal brakes and brakes that would go the floor under hard stops.

I guess that I didn't update this thread. I am pretty sure that I have air in the ABS system. The prior owner painted the calipers red and I wouldn't be surprised if it happened then. I looked around at scan tools for ABS bleeding and thought I might be able to find a reasonable one, but seem for the later Subaru's I am going to need an expensive Scan tool for ABS bleeding. I leaning towards bring it to the dealer to have the ABS bled.

I would replace the heads, cam, caps etc. unfortunately your entire motor is a total loss in my opinion.

The oil Pan to block has one metal reinforce metal gasket and doesn’t have an o-ring, it suppose to be silicon gasket. (The factory assembly almost looks like an o-ring). I got confuse the 1st one that I disassembled because it looked link an o-ring but I couldn’t find it in the parts catalog. The rest of the picture don’t look like the assembly caused the failure. What I do see is, significant scoring, that didn’t happen from failed bearing that someone stopped driving shortly after. I would bet the original turbo failed. Either you didn’t notice it or the prior owner swapped the turbo out and passed the repair bill to you.

I did it the same way with the jack under the control arm. I had the same experience of having no problem with getting the ball joints out on my 2012 which I drove only one winter. My 2009 OB that I did was complete different, the pinch bolt broken on one and it took a lot of effect to get the other ball joint out f the spindle.

The OEM front LCA come with new ball joints.

With a rust free car, this should be an easy job to do.

The car brakes haven't feel right. If I was going 45mph and push the brakes hard, the pedal went almost to the floor. I flushed the brakes 2 weekends ago and it didn't help, I did it again this week to double check and it still didn't help. I posted the question up on Facebook and it seems like I have air in the ABS. I need to get a scan tool that will allow me to pulse the ABS so I can do a proper bleed. I will have to do some research on which tool to get (maybe I can get something that is also useful for my wife's Jeep) This weekend I charged the A/C and programmed the new TPMS sensors to the car, so it wasn't a complete waste. Once I get the brakes operating properly, the car will be up for sale.

The last one is for the GT. The middle one looks like the 2.5i one. I would order it from your local dealer, even though you probably don't get a discount, the saving on shipping is still worth it.

The brake pads were nearly new (The prior owner had told me had recently installed pads and rotors himself) He just didn't assemble them properly. The caliper hardware was forced into the rotor and was catching the slot. I really can't imagine someone doing a brake job, having the car sound like this and not bother trying to fix it. This is the driverside, the passenger side wasn't as bad but dtill make noise, one of the the caliper bolt wasn't even tight. The driver rear brake dust shield was also bent and hitting the rotor. The tension was also broken, (it didn't have any tension), so the belts maybe been also squealing as well. Between the rod knock and the brakes screeching, this car must have been quite the header turner will all the noises it made.

I am spinning the drivers front wheel by hand. IMG_3752.MOV

The turbo oil reservoir will not drain all the engine oil. Basically the oil that is in the lines will come out, so you will need a small contain to catch it.

The passenger side cam gears do not turn by themselves.

I drove it around my neighborhood last night. The brakes sounded and felt terrible. I figure at least some it was rust but after 2 miles. It really didn't improve. I think the front pads were on the wear indicators. I will pull the brakes apart when I remove the wheels to swap over the TPMS and tires.

While you wrote this, I was outside working on the car. I had the interior out of the car to replace the carpet, so that was my thought. I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes, unconnected and reconnected the seat sensors (I can see the yellow wiring is related to the Airbag system), I cleaned the the 2 sensor connection under the hood. Connected everything back up, and it light went out. Woohoo!!! I was getting nervous after reading last night that I would need the Subaru Select monitor or some mechanic (expensive) tool to diagnose it. So now my list to finish the car. Drive it to make sure everything work properly. Mounted the tires and TPMS replaced. Charge the AC system. (I have to buy a vacuum pump) Detail the car

I wished hadn't posted about the P0303. I swapped coils, the miss-fire stayed with #3. I pulled the plugs, and #3 looked brand new and didn't smell like gas. I pulled #1 to see how that one looked since it had new plugs. Clearly #3 was firing or atleast it didn't seem like it was getting fuel. I looked at diagnostic for P0303. It 1st started tracing the fuel injectors. I went immediately to check the injector. Sure enough #3 injector connector wasn't fully seated. I am usually better than this with my attention to detail. The engine now purrs like a kitten. I just have the air bag light.

Today, I checked the timing belt marks behind on the driver-side. It lined up perfectly. I knew the issue was with the driver intake cam. I followed the P0018 diagnostic table. I looked at the logs in my Cobb Accessport for the drivers intake cam and it was AVCS was 0 and the OCV duty cycle was 9.4 which lined up with the service manual ~0 and 10%. It said to change the oil and check the oiling to that side. I pull the OCV valve and it was clean and moved freely. I had thought I had cleaned all the oil line, I was going that I didn't forgot. In order to check the oil giving the oil control valve, I would need to pull the timing belt, driver-side cam gear to access the banjo bolt behind that cover. I decided to reset the ECU. The P0018 went away and P0345 remained. I started following the diagnostic, which has you checking wiring to the intake cam sensor. The driver intake cam sensor is the one cam sensor that isn't very accessible, while tryin got touch I figure out the sensor electrical was not fully plugged in. I plugged it and the engine ran much better. I reset ECU and the P0018 and P0345codes went away. I did notice that I have an airbag señor light was on. I will have to figure that out. The low TPMS light was on too but I already knew the sensors were bade bacuse my TOMS tool couldn't read the back 2 sensors and I had already bought new sensor. After letting it idle for a few minutes, I got another check engine code, P0303. This is an engine misfire on cylinder 3. I am going to let the engine cool down and swap the coil between 1 and 3 to see if the code follows the coil. I purposely put the new coils that I bought on 2 and 4 because I know those are more difficult to change. The car had 2 aftermarket coil that had been replace previously probably a few years. One of them did have some rust. 2 steps forward, 2 steps backward.

All those lights illuminating just means that you have a check engine light. It may or may not be relative to the low oil level.

The alternate locations are for pulling the motor for additional clearance. The factory service manual even tell you to put the strut in that location as one of the 1st steps..

I got this Legacy up and running this weekend. It was a hot weekend to be working a on the car but I really want to get it running. I spent 3 hours on Saturday morning and 4 hours Sunday. The good news is that it runs, it basically started up immediately. I have check engine codes P0018 and P0345. I went through the troubleshooting diagnostic and it looks like I either have the driver intake cam off by a tooth or the solenoid for the cam gear is bad. I will check the timing belt marks this weekend. I bled the power steering. The hood wouldn't latch so I pulled that apart and grease it up, so it work properly again. The good news so far is that I didn't notice any other leaks or any major issues as of this point.

I should have the motor bolted all together and ready to start this weekend. I put it together 2 weeks ago to to figure out what was missing. My misc parts order came in yesterday.

The JDM 5th Gen motors have high compression pistons. You have to swap the Pistons or have it custom tuned for higher compression for it to run properly.