dgoodhue

Yes, electrification will be one major way that manufacturers meets the requirements, the other will likely be with lighter weight materials. Beyond the fact that the US power grid can not handle 50% electrification and manufacturers may not have the battery manufacturing capacity for that. It takes 3 years for a manufacturer to redesign a vehicle. 2026 is 3 years 7 months away. Even if the deadline is December 2026 that is 4.5 years away. The Impreza was due for a redesign for the 2022 model and probably was delayed to the pandemic. The new model design is mostly done at this point. The timeline of this requirement is probably absolute the worst case for Subaru. Do you think the new Impreza have 40mpg average when the current model is 28/36 or about 32mpg? Very unlikely. The Solterra has a base price of $45k, Subaru can't just stick the Solterra drivetrain in the Impreza and expect people to pay mid to high 30's for a Impreza. Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla will destroy Impreza sales if they are selling $25k models. (Toyota with its Hybrids might not be the far off the average 40mpg as it is) Is Subaru going to delay and redesign the unreleased Impreza to meet the the 2026 standards? Are they going to discontinue the Impreza and just sell the SUV variations? For the SUV Subaru is probably not that bad off meeting 28mpg requirement for SUVs. Between the Solterra and likely other electric versions or hybrid electrics that they may roll out for the Outback and Ascent models, Subaru may have already been on track with next generation design path to meet 28mpg average as it is. There might be a market for the electric Legacy, but I am not sure the sales volume supports it. This might be the nail in the coffin for the Legacy and if not there is a good chance that the 2.4 Turbo motor disappears from the Legacy. Maybe Subaru pauses for a couple years on the Legacy/Impreza production in order to make competitive model variation to meets the requirements.

My guess is that it gets push back from manufacturers and is delayed. Manufacturers can't just miracously produce a entire line up of new vehicles in 4 years to meet those requirements.

Not much that has changed since my last update. I order parts after my last post to rebuild the motor, the my parts didn't come in until January, (oil cooler and bearings were the parts backordered). Between cold weather, COVID, family vacation, my honeymoon and busy work schedule, my progress has slowed to a crawl. I quite frankly should have done some work in April but I lost some motivation. I had a warm weekend in February so I assembled the bearings, crank, rods and sealed the block. This past weekend, I had some motivation. I installed the piston, rings into the block. I didn't have as much problem as I would have expected, installing the wrist pins and clips into the pistons through the block holes and windows. Now that the short block is together, I can start reassembling the engine.

If you taking about the mid pipe to downpipe connection, you need to remove (pry) the factory donut gasket out and just use a flat gasket. You don't need the adapter...trust me I initially tried that. (it pushes the exhaust back further and makes it difficult to install) and realized that I needed to remove the factory docent gasket.

This is my DW200 install, it should be similar to the 300. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5793743&postcount=22

Make sure the salvaged trunk drain holes don’t have any rust on them.

IMO I think it is waste of time. Subaru has it set up as #4 being the hot cylinder with the knock sensor on that cylinder. If you cool #4 cylinder better, now the hotter cylinder is going to be another cylinder, the knock sensor and programming is no longer going to be on the hot cylinder. It will just going to stretch (burn) another valve instead of #4.

Those cats are pretty pricey. I looked up my GT cat, which I know had looked up a few years ago and it's $2150, it was previously ~$1200. Atleast, no one is going to steal the front cat that is integrated into the exhaust manifolds.

Except his 2.5i now will have 2 mufflers instead of 1 so it is a wash.

If it is cloth interior is not Limited unless someone (dealer) swapped the leather for cloth seats If you look at your VIN you can tell by the 7th digit of which option package you have. Assuming no sunroof, A is base, C is Premium, J is limited For instance a VIN staring with 4S3BMDJ6XC2 is a Limited.

Yes, those are the part numbers. As for the blanket, I am not sure you're going to find an off the shelf solution. I think it would have to wrap around the manifold. The heat shield at the very least are easier to install.

You still need 2 more tires. 80% tread vs 100% is still too much of difference for an AWD vehicle. I am glad it helped but it is still going ruin your AWD. The spec is a little over 1/32nd difference (1.3/32) 2/32nd might be alright. As I said before if you want to take the pressure off your AWD with the front set of tires and rear set of tires spinning difference speeds, put 1 new tire on on the front, 1 new tire on the rear.

Is this a 2.5i that is leaking from the head gaskets? If it is, someone really should have changed the head gaskets when the engine was out. It is inevitable that those will eventually leaks especially now that the engine is 10+ years old.

With different types of tread depth on the front and rear, you are killing the center differential. If it isn't your current problem, it will be a problem. Temporarily, you can put 1 of the new tire on the front and 1 of the new tires on the rear, this will take speed mismatch in the center diff. It will put the mismatch into the front and rear differentials. Open differentials will not get damaged from mismatched tires.

You could have also been never tuned for a CAI intake. As for driving though deep water, my best friend did that and hydro locked the motor and totaled his car. His excuse was everyone else was driving through it. I asked him if the other vehicle were trucks and SUV, his response was ‘oh yeah I guess they were.’

Do you have an aftermarket CAI? If you have the stock CIA, you should not driving in water that deep. The ECU should be retuned for the intake change. The MAF calibration is dependent on the air intake before the sensor.

AutoZone/autoparts place probably gave you the right code. To repair it effectively, one should follow the diagnostic flow chart in the manual.

BTW The bypass valve will leak at over 12psi. The Turbo can still create 17-18psi if the tune requests it, but it just won't be as efficient in doing it. I think you are going about it right way. I did the Cobb AP, bypass valve, and Invidia Q300 catback exhaust. I was pretty happy with how much a difference that made. I installed a 3 port EBCS (at the request of my tuner) and had it Dyno tuned. I was happy with the car at that point. If I want more acceleration, I would have done a catted Downpipe, TMIC, and STI exhaust cams, and bigger turbo in that order.

My oil cooler finally came in and was shipped today.

Generally, I think we should be able to find the 5th Gen parts which are common across all models. If Subaru discontinues it, the aftermarket will likely come up with a solution for the critical parts. For the 5th Gen GT specific parts, I think we will mostly be able to come up with solutions or buy used parts these car age and more GT's end up getting parted out. With the price increases of used cars, I have thought about selling my 2012 GT. I could drive the 2010 GT when I finish it and sell it in a couple years when the car prices stabilize. Ultimately, I still really enjoy driving my '12 GT and it is in exceptional shape for age/mileage. I am just going to continue to drive it.

Yes that is the part number I ordered. Until a few days ago I was waiting on multiple parts, so I didn't know what was going to come in 1st. I might call them up and see if I can get the rest of the parts shipped so I can start rebuilding the motor. It would have been helpful to have the part o rebuild the engine over thanksgiving (my original plan) or Christmas break. I have a family vacation planned for later this month, so I am not really sure how much I am going to get done until February anyways.

Interesting. How much do the OEM Subaru tools cost?

LOL, I still haven't finished my other 2010GT. It has been taking forever for rebuild parts. I just received the engine bearing this week that I ordered months ago. I am still waiting on the OEM past order I made with the rings, the 5th Gen oil cooler seemed to be delayed. It has ben 2.5 months. I am a little worried that they are going to cancel the order for that part.

Sorry I can't take on another LGT project. If it is price right and good cosmetic shape, it should be a good project for someone (perhaps a 2.5i owner?)

I use Motul 8100 5w40