dgoodhue

Blusabado My advice is don't google a topic and pretend to be an expert. I started ecm tuning 25 years ago and experience tuner on a few of my car. I have more expertise in reading datalogs. I can see from a mile away that you are inexperience in those topics. Stick to what you know. If you google a topic, state the facts but don't extrapolate.

I have seen good running turbo engines on 93 octane add 110 and 116 octane gas. The results were not measurable at the track. I don't know if that would be measurable on and dyno. I have my doubt that going from 87 to 93 would show up within the tolerances of a dyno if it ran without detonation at 87. At the very least, it isn't going to measurably slower. On my '12 GT, onerun I missed 4th at the track, my DAM from 1 to 0.875 on that run. My track time drop 0.2s and 1.5mph until I reset (DAM is how Subaru's ECM reacts knock retard). If the Ascent part throttle knock that Cobb reported is triggering DAM to be dropped below 1.0, it absolutely is lower the power. LOL Bring to the dealer, what are going to tell, the DAM isn't 1.0? Do that if you want to waste your time and money on tune up for how Subaru intended the vehicle to. Even if they were to really look it, they are just going to tell you it is within spec. From my experience the EJ 2.5i and FB 2.5i, all don't have 1.0 DAM on 87. (I am not sure on the DI models, as I haven't seen a datalog go those.) I would guess at least 50% (I am probably being generous at 50%) of the new cars on the road don't run perfect on 87 octane without the ECM's knock prevention strategy. I actually think from what Cobb posted the FA24DIT is actually run pretty good on 87 compare to the masses.

I had no luck in selling the 2010 Legacy GT (that I rebuilt the motor among other things), so I made it my daily driver for this winter and put away my 2012 GT. So far so good, I haven't had not had any problems, besides minor issue from sitting for most of 3.5 years. I had to work out the flat spots. A couple my switches were not work but have since started working. The shifting initially wasn't self center itself (made it difficult to find 3rd or 4th) but that now works. I have put 1000 miles on it since I registered it right after Thanksgiving.

A couple years ago, I saw some who dynoed a WRX with about 50-60K miles with before and after to see what carbon build up losses were. It looked like it had some carbon build up but it only end up being a couple hp. I would assume that Subaru does think it will be an issue until the engine is high mileage and well past the warranty. I haven't looked lately though. The early WRX and FXT with DI should have a good amount high mileage models by now.

You won't lose performance by using anything other more than 87 octane. Cobb did some testing with the ascent motor and found that at WOT the stock tune was not pulling timing so there would be no HP gains at WOT. Cobb did find that that tune did occasionally pull timing from detonation at part throttle and higher octane clean that up. I assume the Legacy 2.4T motor would be the same.

If the front sub frame is rotted, it is likely going to be a losing battle trying to weld it up. I had a truck with a rotted frame, when I really started assessing the damage, it went a lot further than the initial hole. It was 3' section that was bad.

It seems relatively straight forward. The biggest issue I see is supporting the motor. I would have separated the exhaust not taken it down as one unwieldy piece, Subaru uses a donut gasket between the front and catback exhaust portions which usually comes apart at the age of these cars. I do know why they just don't remove the cotter pins, I usually only use the impact to shear it as my last resort not my 1st course of action.

This is what I had to do for a DW200, it is probably similar for DW300.

Congrats on your 2012 GT I would try to figure out why the ringland cracked after only 30k miles. Usually the only cracked ringland, I see on 5th Gen GT are modified ones. The ones with cracklands who have posted pictures, clearly have had detonation. The easiest solution is to buy a short block from Subaru and swap the parts over. I would get a new timing belt and reuse the components (make sure the water pumper was replaced previously). I would probably still do the clutch throw out bearing and replace the clutch fork. (cheap insurance for parts that fail and cause you to pull the motor prematurely to fix) Check the valve clearance on the heads (to prevent a burnt valve). If the clearance has never been adjusted, it will likely need to be done with either new valve or shim buckets.

I wonder if someone mangled the disc brake clips when they installed the brake pads and you only notice it at low speeds, but it is happening all the time. It could also be the shield as mention above and you need to bend it back a little.

My new 2012 2.5i 6MT, when I speed shifted with WOT flat foot shifts, it made a snapping noise. I was told it was the rear differential. My '12 GT has rear differential mounts (i think inserts) and it does not make this noise when I wot flat foot shift. I have the Cobb AP, so my rev do drop between shifts so their is a little difference between flat footing shifting on my 2.5i and GT.

I looked mine up, I paid $228 per headlight but it was $100 for shipping.

I went with OEM 2013-2014 Legacy, the pricing 7-8 years ago wasn't that much higher than the aftermarket ones. I got them on sales from one of the online Subaru part retailers. I don't know what it is now though.

The JDM ej255 motors have different pistons with higher CR. Yes sell 2.5i and buy a GT. I don’t even think it would be worth the effort to buy a hit GT and transplant it into a 2.5i unless you don’t value your time (labor).

The Canadian 6th Gen 2.5i 6MT was a crazy rare combination. I want to say that I remember reading the production was 14 units 2015 and 9 in 2016. Don't quote me on those numbers, but they are really low

Yesterday, I drove the car to my PDR guy to remove all the little door dings and the 1 minor dent the car had (The car looks awesome now and doesn't have a ding on it. he probably removed above a dozen imperfections). Well, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. Yesterday was the 1st cold day that I drove the car. When I got home, I scanned it. The code is P0140 which looks like it is the rear O2 sensor. I will confirm it tonight when I go through the diagnostic tree. I had really hoped to change the draft of for sale ad to live last night.

I beat on the hub shocker quite a bit. (I was starting to get blisters on my hand). I even tried it on the other side this past weekend to see if it work on a different hub. I might save my money on the hub shock for a rusty 5th gen.

Well it is repaired now. I removed the rear spindles and I was able get the rear wheel bearings out with a dozen blows from a sledge hammer on the back side. I bet a torch with a slide hammer would have like worked. The bearing made noise when I turned them by hand. For good measure I also changed the rear differential fluid. It was dirty (original) but no metal. It sounds normal when I drive it now.

Every time, I log into this forum, I see Motorbreath's 'the hard way' restoration. Unfortunately that title is becoming more and more appropriate for my project as well. I am still working on the rear wheel bearings. I tried using slide hammer, hub shocker, my next attempt is going to be to remove the spindle itself. I can not get the pinch bolt out (at least the passenger rear), so I need to drop the rear subframe assembly to remove the rear upper control arms. I should be able to get the bearing out once I spindle off the car. Worst case is that I buy new rear spindle(s).

My gaskets were OK but I did mine in 2017 when my car was 6 years old. (2011 build date)

I didn't replace anything besides the filter assembly. $5 isn't very expensive and probably worth it. I heard on the GT filter assembly was backorder, but it may have been resolved by now. Make sure you get the correct assembly as I got the wrong one the 1st time. The GT have 3 fittings the other mode have 2. I broke off one of the plastic fittings on the assembly to get the filter out so you don't have to bend the body sheet metal to get the top metal ring off. I notched the ring with an angle grinder so it can come out easily in the future.

I think the gas mileage change is significant. The O2 sensor is the feedback senor for the closed loop and it has significant affect on the fuel trims. I am not normally into changing parts randomly but perhaps the O2 sensor is going bad or out calibration.

The brakes were bled at the dealer last week, so that issue is now resolved. In driving the car to the dealer with speed limits of 45-55 mph, I found out the car has a howl from the drivetrain. It sort sounded like a truck with loud tires. I put the car up on jack stands and it appears that it needs rear wheel bearings.

I think Subaru used a different model TPMS for the early vehicles with TPMS like your 2007 Tribeca.