utc_pyro

The JDM lights use a really soft sealiant, you don’t even need to bake them to open them. There is no reason to be afraid of prying them open to adjust something, you can do it in less than an hour. Adjusting them how you propose really won’t work because they project much wider than your car. Thus your passenger side light will still blind oncoming cars. Edit: speaking of this, I need to go take mine apart and see why the passenger side light stopped working in the last week...

I'm not sure what fotofan was trying to achieve there, the shield and projector are identical between the drivers and passengers side. So that really did nothing. You really have four options: Flip the JDM shield - This causes things to be out of focus Use the USDM halogen shield. You loose some width and again focus isnt perfect. Make a custom curved shield out of a coke can or the like. If you have the skill this is the best performing option. It's an option that requires a lot of sub mm cutting and bending skill, patience, and in-depth understanding of optical physics. I have the laster, but not the former two. Use the adapters I designed and drop in an off the shelf aftermarket projector.

I went and looked at my AVCS map and it’s already at 25* in the area I get stumble (.8-1.2g/rev 2000-3000 RPM). Maybe that is too much advance?

Yes those will fit.

Yep they are garbage. One of my ball joints went bad about 300 miles in, the other is starting to make noise. Traildogck mentioned in another thread someone local to him had one fail catastrophically while driving. So i'm terrified that's going to happen any time I drive my car (roughly 10 miles once or twice a week). Going to have them and the arms replaced next month as part of a total suspension overhaul. Going back to my SpecB arms with whiteline bushings and roll center kit.

‘08-‘14 WRX/STI are the same as us, search for those hoses. That said, there are disadvantages of going silicon. They weep over time. I’m running an ACDelco rubber top hose, with the original bottom still. Hose clamps up top, OEM clamps on the bottom. No issues to speak of.

A warm out ball joint can cause vibrations. That is what lead to me swapping in these arms the RocAuto arms which had defective ball joints out of the box.

It mounts into the body of the car just like ours. This picture is from a drivetrain/suspension model. There is kind of a frame holding everything together instead of the body. They had one of these in the lobby of their HQ when I was there back in 2014.

I’m on Tomei ELH, so even easier to add the EGT to. I considered it when i put everything on, but it was SUPPOSED to be a simple rebuild with a new turbo and ELH added while everything was out. Not this never ending money pit science project. So why haven’t I done it so far? Lack of a garage or private driveway to drop the headers, lack of a welder to put in the bungs, and lack of disposable income for the 4-Chanel thermocouple logger. If I could find someone local willing to donate a driveway and welder for a day I could probably scrounge up for the logging hardware.

I’m not sure if the theory of this being caused 100% by resonance holds true. I plumbed the fuel pressure regulator reference to the BOV line, studded was still there. I replaced my fuel pressure regulator and dampers with a Radium setup, stutter was still there. I replaced the fuel rails with Radium ones along with ID1050X’s, two radium pulse dampers, and all rubber hose and it’s still there. At least on my car it seems to corrotlate with short term AFR correction overshooting. I think this is becaus the per cylinder compensations no longer match, but I don’t have a 4-channel EGT to try and fix that.

The AD converter is actually 0-5V on the rear O2 just like the other analog inputs. I think the front O2 is the only one with special voltage ranges hardware wise. TGV’s were used in the case because if you delete them they are doing nothing for the ECU. Typically people don’t deleat the rear O2 as often, as it causes fun questions at emissions testing and was hard to take 100% out of play until a few years ago. Then Cobb put out an update slowing you to completely disable it, and the figured out the same on opensource.

So you can keep your rear O2 sensor to help with fueling corrections?

So are you basically saying we should make lower load AVCS match what we typically do at higher loads?

Won’t that break inner thread links and google search results? There is a lot of good info on here, but it’s difficult to dig though with the built in search.

Actuator was sitting on my kitchen table, WG disconnected flapping in the exhaust flow. The newer BNRs are supposedly 8cm like the Taiwanese Turbos, so that’s why I was curious.

Interesting. Out of curiosity, how much boost did the Kinugawa 16G make with the wastage disconnected? I ran my BNR without the actuator for a week while waiting on parts, and it was still hitting 12psi at upper RPM's.

Toast turbo being the one in your profile pic?

Wiring is diffrent. You can modify your USDM bulb sockets to fit, or make a new wiring harness.

Merchgod, digging around in the ROM in IDA between the MT and AT cars there isn't any difference in the "code" portion. Just a few things differ in the actual "tune" portion. You obviously know this as you made the definitions for these cars back in your Romraider days. In terms of engineering time, wouldn't this make supporting the AT cars trivial?

I'm running them in my '06. If you want something more exotic, they also have the Ruthenium LFR6ARX-P of the same design.

Electric cars used an electric compressor powered off the high voltage battery. Full ac full time!

Yep! I can provide the files, or see if I can get a batch made.

Theretrofitsource.com We developed a way to retrofit Mini D2S 4.0’s into the housing though, so you might want to consider that route. Getting rx330’s perfect is a lot of work.

That should work and turn on with your parking lights.

You can also change the shift ignition reatard tables to pull more at low loads to help with this.