xt2005bonbon

It's crazy that some folks have it worse than others. I have a neighbor who has an 05 NA outback. Always been in the sun, no sun visor. Dash is just fine . While both of mine have been garaged for 10 years, and now they're cracked and sticky. pfff. To give more context though, I believe my neighbor's outback has lived its whole life in the dry desert, while both of mine have been on the East coast for a while, some other cold regions of the world and now in a dry environment. Mine became sticky before moving in a dry environment.

That's still a lot of money... I think there are some Crosstrek with manual trans no? Edit: looks like 2023 was the last year to get an MT for the crosstrek

I should report that it's been more than 1k miles of driving now and the engine is running just fine.

Just get her a used crosstrek. no?

mmh. I need to look into it. If there is a way to break down this green crap without removing the heater core, I am all for it!

Do like me: I have a lowered OBXT on STI pinks and Bilsteins for them corners , and then for longer trips I have the slightly raised 05 OBXT on a BTS kit with a JMP VF52, GS intercooler, thicker RSB, whiteline camber/toe rear kit, bla bla bla... Not too bad.

I have a brand new heater core ready to get installed. But I've been lazy to pull the dash..

Freak. Your wagon looks really really good. Man, I love these rims on it.

Does it misfire consistently in a same cylinder?

mmmh. I should probably do that. We drive a lot on dusty dirt roads and stuff and dust is found everywhere inside the small side compartments of the trunk. Maybe the flap vents are not doing their job very well anymore.

I don't own an AP, but you may be able to check this parameter list and see what variables your AP can view.

I don't know. I am always starring at BtSsm when I drive and my long term fuel trims are very close to zero. They've remained quite consistent since I fixed the wires.

Not sure. I never had to change my MAF. Still original for both cars (180k+)

Do you have BtSsm or an AP? Are you able to view live what's going on in terms of your fuel trim corrections?

I did not catch that you did that. I did this also last year or the year before. So far so good. Although I recall that for one of them, my crimping job was not done well. So it still acted up until I fixed the latter.

I recall the OEM wires are sligthly thicker than what iwire provides on their pigtails. I did use their pigtail as I was having trouble at my MAF connection. The problem was not necessarily on the longer portion of the wires. Rather, it was at the MAF plug where the wires meet the plug. I think the ground was getting bad when the car was warm, making the car runs super rich. I could see it on BtSsm live. I made the change on two cars. Problem solved.

You had an automatic wagon though, right? Can't remember, was yours ever modified or did you keep it stock?

As far as I know, we don't have an oem oil pressure sensor. I mean, it is a 'stupid' sensor which only turns on when you are below, like what? 2 psi?

ah yeah. I thought he was on a vf40 or vf52.

K. I am lazy scrolling through the whole thread . So what turbo and mods did you end up doing?

wow. That's a looong time.

You can also press the clutch and gas pedals (wot) while cranking. It will just crank and not start. I usually do that when the car sits for an extended period of time to build up oil pressure. On another note, I want to buy a 12 pack of oil filters. Man, 10 years ago I was used to pay 65$ for these. Cheapest I can find is 120$ now! Edit: to be fair, it appears that Subaru now sells the 'good stuff' (black filter vs blue).

Well, I never did that step before. Just thought the replacement of fluid and bleeding were essentially done simultaneously. It's weird. I do use the FSM and do not remember reading that note. Learn something new everyday I guess. Edit: Brake fluid replacement can be found under section BR-33, while air bleeding can be found in section BR-34 of the FSM.

Wait, I believe the FSM says to start from the farthest wheel to the MC and end with the closest.

I am referring to the STI MC/booster swap.