xt2005bonbon

This shudder you are describing is what happened to my first aftermarket set. It was noisy. I think these are all made from the same 'made in china' company.. Just different sticker on it. I still don't think it is acceptable that you have to lift the hatch a couple of inches until the struts are able to lift the trunk. When you are carrying a bunch of stuff, it can be hard to do that vs. just having to press and barely lift the trunk handle. Please report how long these will last. Mine did not last very long and performed worse when the temps were cold.

Well, you can never have too many brake lights for these people who don't pay attention to the road and rear end you .

Holy crap! That quickly turned into a nightmare! I've changed these twice with some aftermarket units I bought online. Still not happy with these. You always have 'to assist the beginning' of the lifting, and the trunk does not always fully open. You have to push the trunk at the end of the stroke. What brand are yours? The aftermarket ones on my old Jeep Cherokee are super strong and easily open the trunk. That trunk is not light either..

If you just reset the ecu, then it is normal for the idle to be a bit rough when you apply some throttle and then let it go back to idle. The ecu is learning. But it does not take very long to learn especially if it idled for a while. At least, my cars behave like that.

How much did you pay for the tailgate piece? Why did you get a seatbelt?

Also. Some food for thought.. I have two OBXTs. Both suffered over time with some grounding issue between the MAF sensor and MAF wiring harness. AFR corrections were going wonky when warmed up (overly negative corrections). Found the problem by having the engine idling, while starring at the BtSsm app on my phone (or accessport), twisted the MAF wiring harness at the MAF. Corrections were going all over the place while I was doing that. You could also hear changes in idling. Had to replace the MAF connector with a pigtail from iWire. Did that on both cars. Not saying it is your problem, but it is good to know.

yeah. lots of engine braking.

Very happy for you. It was in fact a simple fix after all!

The number of teeth between pulleys is what really matters to me, as per FSM. Stupid check: did you make sure the white coil plugs are in the front and black in the back? Also, it could be possible that one of the intake camshaft pulleys is not aligned exactly right with the camshaft dowel pin. I hope that's not the case. It is somewhat easy, upon install, to misalign that pulley with the camshaft. Some guys had that problem. It's rare but it can happen.

You sure it's gone?

Our wagon gen does look small, but we still have more cargo volume in the trunk than the latest crosstrek.

Man, our wagon looks so small now when parked next to the newest STIs/WRX, crosstrek or outbacks.

I want the Grimmspeed alternator cover. zip is 84780. Also, would the radiator shroud fit with a Koyo (Hyper V Performance Aluminum) radiator? Edit: according to this page, it looks like it does... So I think I'll grab that too.

Duuude, it's been a year already. How's the car? Bump.

Your part number is SU251 as shown below?

Don't know if it matters, but the 05 and 06 also have different length dipsticks (05 is longer). My cars are outbacks though. Don't think that makes a difference though..

I have an 05 and 06. The 06 did in fact suffer from a pick up failure. So lucky I caught it before catastrophic failure. Replaced it with a Moroso one. The 05 has had a killerB since 2013.

wow. So far, my kit is really the least expensive then (400$ for the clutch+pressure plate). I guess you have to pay to play.

35$ is a lot for a tiny package!

thanks for the info. Could you guys post the part numbers as well if you have them? this is what I have: -Exedy clutch kit p/n 15804 -Exedy flywheel, I believe p/n is TYF001

I got mine from https://deatschwerks.com/ directly. Pretty inexpensive. should be these: https://deatschwerks.com/collections/injectors/products/2-002-4 Double check with them before buying.

What made you choose this particular clutch set up over the exedy stage 1? Also, I checked the price and, if I read that right, the clutch disc alone is 600$ .

huh. Those are the guys that can import the famous dual range transmission I've been wanting from Australia. I'll check it out. Which flywheel are you running? How many miles on that clutch so far?

I have a JMP VF52 turbo peaking around 20 psi at times. I have an Exedy stage 1 clutch with wrx exedy single mass flywheel. I think I noticed my first clutch slipping last week. Been 30K. Quite premature although I push it quite hard. The previous exedy stage 1 clutch (paired with lightweight flywheel) lasted about 60-70K I think; but it was on a VF40 (stage 2). For people with similar turbo setup as mine, or even slightly bigger, what clutch setup are you running?

Talking about clutch, my stage 1 exedy clutch is already slipping! It did juuust a tad in 4th, 19psi vf52 jmp. 30k. Dang it. Last one lasted about 55k, but it was on a stock vf40 stage 2. Btw, I changed clutch both ways on these cars. While I hate working on my back and wrestling that trans, I feel it is less work just separating the trans, than fully removing the engine. More steps to track with the latter. But sure, if you have to perform extra work on the engine itself, then might as well..