Rutchard

But since all dynos read differently, Virtual Dyno might be a little more consistent for the sake of comparison between cars...

*shrug* With proper offset wheels, I was able to cram 275's under the stock 5th gen fenders. This thread is over a year old, it's probably dead

This. Just go SD, wire in a GM IAT sensor somewhere on the cold side piping and shitcan the MAF sensor. Intake options open waaaay up after that.

That looks perfect

Generally, upstate is a lot less strict than downstate NY. But some places will still do a visual inspection and fail you if you're missing exhaust bits. One dealership wouldn't pass my old STi because even though I had a catted DP on there, it didn't have the TWO cats that the stock DP had. Went to the local Midas after that and they passed it with no problems. Seems to work out best for modified cars if you go to an inspection shop that doesn't know your car inside and out

So stupid question since I don't live in CA, how often do you have to smog your vehicle over there? Once the referee signs off on it, are you good for the next smog test? Or are you going to have to go through all this next time unless Subaru gets you an updated sticker? Also while people are contacting companies, someone should get ahold of Mitchell and let them know they have at least the wrong exhaust diagram for a 2010 GT in their system. Wonder what else they have wrong or if the 2011-12 are wrong too. Sooooo many mechanics use that system...

There were options 5 years ago. I was on RCE T2's back in December 2009, 2 months after taking delivery of my 2010 I think there was at least one person on BC coilovers around the same time, but I think we were the first two with coilovers. 2008 WRX stuff bolted up (with some modifications), but it took a while longer before anyone released lowering springs for the 5th gens. H&R's springs were vaporware foreeevvvverrrr

When I had an EWG on my old STi, I jammed the Supertrapp on the end of the dump tube for autox sites with sound limits. Didn't do a lot, just enough to stay under the dB limit.

MBC makes the wastegate opening muuuuch more predictable.

But fahr_side was talking about the intake there, not the charge pipe. I thought he was a pretty big supporter of replacing the OEM charge pipe. Don't think the OEM charge pipe was so much of a restriction, just a common failure point. Plastic tends to split/crack.

Meh, leave the stock endlinks until they actually break. No sense in throwing money/parts at a problem that doesn't exist yet. If I didn't kill the stock endlinks with a 22mm Whiteline rear bar on the full stiff setting with loads of autox, they can't be that bad.

That would be the correct order. also correct, shouldn't be needed

good deal, just wanted to make sure you were getting the correct adapter. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/Rutch/graphix/smileys/thumbsup.gif

What catback are you running? If it's something OEM-ish, that's the wrong adapter. This is the adapter you'd need to connect an aftermarket DP to a stock-ish catback. http://www.grimmspeed.com/3-downpipe-adapter-aftermarket-dp-oem-subaru-catback/

eBay shift knob? Run away screaming....

What about a helicoil to repair the threads and keep it M10x1.25?

I'm not saying it'll be free. But it should take a lot less time than the initial tune and should cost less. My tuner had an hourly rate for revisions on the dyno after the initial tune. I would assume most honest tuners would do the same.

You know you're probably going to want to re-tune if you throw a different DP on there, right? Most tuners would charge you a lower rate than the initial tune to revise the tune for new parts, so you shouldn't be out another $500 to retune...

The Teins? That's the price for all 4 corners. Entry level price for entry level coilovers.

0.02 isn't close enough to zero toe in the rear?

the KW V3 are great on a 5th gen.

Also I'd say if you're planning on getting all 4 wheels up in the air, jack up the rear first. It's hard to get to the rear diff once the front end is up in the air.

gotcha, all I can see in the pic are the flat flanges on the DP

Yeah the front and rear jack points at the center are the way to go if you want to get the car up on jackstands. I only jacked the car up from the side if I was changing tires. Where are the v-bands at?