hadvw

Ok, I picked up a couple of diodes, NTE 5801 - Standard recovery diode, Axial Lead, 100v, 3A, Single, 1.2V, 200A. Will those work? I figured 12v/3A would be enough? Also, bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CE75K0W for the power supply - couple $$ more, but had better reviews than the Tobsun. Anyway - assuming I tap a couple of wires off the clock connector (which I need to move to the ashtray location), and wire this power supply up, where do I send the output? Do I hack up a USB cable on the other end, and plug that cable into the power side of the OTG-Y cable I have? If so, which USB-cable wires need to be hooked up? Does hooking a USB hub up to ACC power only (I'm thinking in the storage area between the seats, using the lighter already there - I already have a nice USB charger plugged in there) cause any issues? In the sense that the attached devices power up, then down, then up again? Or can I use this new "uninterrupted" power line to power the hub too? Just find one with 12v input, and tap the combined lines before the power converter? Any issue with putting the hub in the storage bin between the front seats? It would be a very convenient location to plug/unplug things. Although it might be a little long or a run for the DAC audio cable? Is the glovebox a better location? Thanks again for all the help. It makes things SO much easier!

Ok, so, if I read the diagrams right - connectors i99/i100, which is GB-3, which seems to be on the passenger side of the center tunnel? They're listed as "non-colored", although in one diagram, it's B/BY (black-yellow, I think)? So how do I get to it? I wonder if the problem is not so much GB-3, but rather, the connector going back from all the way over there to the left side of the car? Would there be a problem if I were to re-ground the tapped ground wire to the body locally? I already have a ground-kit of sorts in the engine bay (connecting like 5 different locations) due to trouble-shooting a faulty coil a long time ago.

Yeah, I see that. I looked at a '14 6AT around $35k 3 years ago with ~20k miles. Good luck finding a similar deal today! I was holding out for a '15+ for the adjustable suspension. Actually had a chance to possibly grab one during the crazy 20% off sale for ~$37k new, but chickened out..

Thanks so much. I have some electrical knowledge, but not enough to know what to actually do in practice. Was never good at wiring diagrams, but will give it a go.. Just re-read the threads about caps. Will try 0.01 and 0.1 uF, between pins 5 and 7. If that solves it, will leave well enough alone.

I found this: https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/obd2-port Seems a little steep at $34.99, but seems to have the right # of wires. All the others only seem to have 5 wires?

Looks like we replied at the same time.. Yeah, been wanting to do this forever. Which pin is the k-line? IIRC, people had to DISABLE it again to flash?

Hopefully not derailing this - where do I look for the ground? Have half-heartedly tried to open up underneath there and couldn't even easily open it.. Which bolt? Under the dash for that cluster? Or the head/chassis ground for that side in the engine bay? I need to check those at some point. I don't suppose you have a parts list handy, or exactly what to look for? Are these vampire taps you're talking about?

This is great! I've had pretty frequent disconnects during WOT when the power hits and/or shifts. I'm HOPING this will cure it. Although it'll probably take me more than 30 minutes :-) The strange thing is, usually when that happens, my driver's side mirror also shifts a couple of notches of adjustment on its own. And lately, the infamous "ILL5" has been more frequent, and ILL6 is almost impossible to reach now. That whole section of my car seems a little wonky, almost like the torque triggers a bad ground or low voltage something. And the OBD2 (via VAG-COM / BtSSM) can take 5-10 minutes before it reconnects. I have no idea where to start.. I'd love to fix it, as I'm working on adding a Nexus 7 into the dash for full-time BtSSM logging, but I also can't spend forever on the car. I've lived with it for almost 14 years (did this when it was still 100% stock), so it'll probably do it until I get rid of it.. Just remembered - there was a whole thread on BtSSM about it including adding a cap or inductor to certain pins.. May have to revisit that..

Having it done at AA Motorworks?

Test - forum quirk? Shows a 17th page, but I can't actually go to it..

Yeah, makes sense. I also use ~1 quart per 3k, sometimes 1.5. If that jumped up significantly, I'd also get worried..

I have a similar situation with the 5EAT ATF. I had it rebuilt 3 years ago, and had a "wet spot" above the driver's fog light I noticed maybe a year later. I knew the oil filter for the ATF was there, but I never actually SAW any fresh drips, just "moist" (with lots of dirt) whenever I wiped - and no drips on the ground. Things finally got bad a month ago (it missed a gear a couple of times after some aggressive cornering), so I checked ATF, and it was down a quart. I've since confirmed the leak at the ATF filter visually, but, losing 1 quart over 3 years, and only planning to keep the car at most 2 more years, I'm just going to check every oil change and fill as necessary.. Or maybe ask my mechanic to change the filter - I don't want to have a mess on my hands..

I think you meant the G70, the Hyundai/Genesis version of the Stinger? I didn't think the Stinger was that bad, but, you never know with kids. A little surprised the manual version only comes with RWD, not AWD.. They were so good about AWD being available with most of the versions.. But if you need more legroom, and want manual + AWD, why not just go STI? It has PLENTY of rear legroom in the 2015+ model. I just wish it had a 5EAT/7EAT option (and not the CVT in the WRX that can't hold much past base power). Not that I can't do manual - the LGT is the first car that isn't manual in now 30+ years of driving - but traffic is SO insane these days, and my wife doesn't do manual, and, unlike all the silly memes, wife/family >> car. At least my wife , YWMV When the kids are out of the house in 10 years, I'll probably be "that old guy in a 'vette", if they still let us drive

Yeah, I know the Q50's "kinda" small, so it's just "under consideration". My kid just sprung the "can't get my shoe out from under the seat" while sitting down test on me in the Stinger.. When there's a chance, will see if the Q50's any better. I dunno know about Audi being more reliable than BMW (may just be my VW background).. Plus, I hear X3M40i is more of a driver's vehicle than the SQ5. Overall, I'm going to back off a bit and have a little more fun with the LGT. Although lately, it feels REALLY low on power betwen 2k-3k rpm. Once at 3k, it feels fine..

I did a red line hood strut install about a year ago - just followed their directions, more or less, and it worked out ok.

Sat in the Stinger again, and wife and kids just didn't like it, and said it's a little cramped. Well, we are kinda tall (6'1", wife is 5'9", kids are 5'5" and 5'1" and both still growing, will probably both be around 5'10") and not exactly skinny, but still. . Alas, M3 was also ruled out due to lack of space. They like S4/S6, but those are so expensive (no good lease deals) and not exactly reliable. LGT seems to hit that perfect mix of "enough room" and "not huge". They were ok with the Charger we sat in, although I'd really love an AWD SRT (and not Durango / GC). Still one more try of Q50 at some point, but for now, I'm going to upgrade the LGT a bit and see if I can enjoy it for another year or two (just passed smog) - the wagon is so convenient. Maybe an X3M40i - I hear it drives nice. Or that X3-M (whatever it's called) when it comes out. (probably starting to get repetitive) E63 is just a little OUT of the budget. Unless used, in which case, reliability is the question.

Ah, ok.. I have an '05 with an '06 stereo.. So the GROM is wasted on my setup - I'm either going aux in and/or separate amp if I really like it..

What is grom 2.0? What model of nexus? What other accessories included?

Thanks. Yeah, I think I could go either way. Anyone have a list/color/description of pins available near the radio handy? What do you mean by "hood pin"? I don't know of any existing "hood is open" or "hood is closed" signals. Are there some? Where?

That's still going into a 12v->5v power supply, right? And then how do you wire the PS output up to power things? Splice in a hacked USB cable? Or power a hub that can deliver 2+ amps to tablet as well as power everything else? Just trying to get everything planned in my head. I already did a cheap "wire up a USB charger to the cigarette lighter" for a really old version of this, but I don't recall if it will do 2+ amps. Yeah, I've thought about it some more. I think I'm just going to see if I can free up the OBD2 port so I can plug in the VAG-COM and have both sit UNDER (behind) the dash covers so I don't kick it all the time while driving When smog time comes, just unplug from VAG-COM and put it back into stock location..

Thanks again. Those timers seem like they would also work for a "12v LED light string/wand under the hood driven off the battery with 1-hour timeout, in case I forget to turn them off..

Thanks - so you used the timer + power supply to get rid of the power-cut-during-cranking issue? Where did you get the input for the power supply from? How did you wire it up? Nice work, solidxsnake - yeah, would buy one for a reasonable price :-) I don't have the design skills to tackle that project myself, though..

Thanks. Hard to find some of those parts - is the Supernight power supply a "TOBSUN"? I think you mean the UCA202 is your DAC? Didn't have time to watch the whole video, will tomorrow..

Just started down this path (2013 16gb wifi model). Got as far as getting Timur's kernel installed with some hiccups - had to format /data using TWRP before things would work.. Any suggestions for: 1) USB DAC? 2) powered hub? 3) backup cameras / how to wire? 4) power supplies / caps / switches to make life easier? I have an '05 5EAT without steering wheel controls, so looking at maybe a bluetooth button for simple controls. May stick a bluetooth keyboard in the glove box for nav - or can it still do voice commands like "navigate to ..."? I'm trying to keep it somewhat simple - hookup a DAC, for now into my aux-in to stock stereo, but maybe go to an amp + new speakers later. Don't want to spend $60-70 on a power supply, $100 on "the best" DAC, etc.. Who knows how long the car will last? Anyone wired up an OBD-2 splitter so that the original is still functional, but can split off a VAG-COM cable + BTSSM?

Not sure he knows. Wish Cobb would explain it, though..