hadvw

Hopefully not too OT.. I'm also wanting to try some auto-x (did it once last year) and some HPDE stuff. But, I can't justify a car JUST for that, since I could do that max 10 times a year, and then 1-2 days a week to work and back. Meanwhile, every day I drive kids to school, and drive the family around on weekends. So, I'm looking for a fun sedan that can stretch to do some auto-x/track duty. If I end up doing it a lot, THEN I can look at a beater DD + fun track car..

Same here..

Was that the 6mt or cvt?

This. It's also a matter of "what mods are available to overcome shortcomings".

See username . Also see dieselgate. Golf is a little small in the back.. And the cargo area is significantly smaller than the LGT.. Still, a maybe..

By repeatedly insulting me, you're really NOT helping your point . I'm strongly cross shopping STI vs. maybe Stinger or Charger. I'd consider a good deal on a 6AT SS, but they seem to want the same price they wanted 2-3 years ago for a used one. I've dropped Q50 from consideration due to lack of rear seat space. I can't imagine owning Audi/BMW/MB out of warranty, and I like to keep my cars a long time and/or modify. I like the engine of the Stinger. I like the transmission of the Charger (I prefer a good auto these days - my 5EAT + F1 Hexmods is pretty good, and the wife can't drive stick. I drove stick for my first 17 years of driving, so no biggie, just not sure I want to do it in traffic). I like the STI for the solid transmission / diffs. Because of my LGT, I know lots about the car, most of the engine stuff, etc. It's a Subaru, so there are a lot less gotchas to learn. The upgrade path is a known quantity, flex fuel is readily available, etc.. I have some Auto-X / track interest, so again, STI is a known quantity. Plus, good tuners exist locally. Also, subaru dealers aren't generally considered the worst part of owning a subaru. Dodge dealers are a small step above Kia dealers.. (we've owned 2 FCA minivans). Subaru is one large step above both, IMO. Not Lexus level, though.. I have an independent mechanic who does a decent job on my LGT, and reputable Subaru specialists not too far. I'm sure I can find someone to work on a Charger . Stinger? Burger won't even ship to CA.. Ideal car: Kia motor, Charger 8-speed, STI AWD in a hatch/wagon version of current-size STI. The Stinger MAY be the best compromise out of all of those.. And potentially has the most headaches, based on my research.

Yes - $3k-$8k in "lease cash" (depending on model)

Thanks for that info (about the suspension). I'm still interested in one, sort of. I'd have to talk the family into it some. I would consider a 2019 GT1 AWD (or maybe RWD, since it now has LSD!), since it has the true manual shifter, and the better seats, etc..

If you search at all, every paint color had issues. Cvt? My '05 has 5eat, stinger gt has 8eat (iirc) and s209 6mt..

If the Stinger didn't have the following issues: 1) paint flaking 2) unsettled suspension in corners (some call it dangerous) 3) GT2 "DBW" gearshift won't stay in manual 4) insane lease interest rate it would be more attractive. I am STILL considering one. However, I hear the "buy out right after leasing it to get a huge discount" trick doesn't work anymore, so your deal isn't reproducible anymore, AFAIK.

I haven't had a sniffer test in 6 years - just OBD / visual checks..

As I said - the LGT gets ready quickly. Our '08 Grand Caravan did NOT.

Now if they just made a V40/V60 with the T8... I don't need a landyacht.. And if I did, I'm pretty sure a 6.4 Charger would be way more reliable and/or cheaper to fix

Worn/corroded coil pack harness / harness plugs?

Do you mean the up/down arrow shifters on the wheel? My '05 LGT 5EAT has those and nothing else on my wheel..

Twincharged may be cool, but seems like they're pretty well tapped out and complicated to me. Unlikely to be much room for tuning. And comes with the same ~250 hp the LGT had in 2005. I've been at +40-50 hp forever now. Don't want to go that far backwards..

I had that happen with our 100% stock 2008 Grand Caravan - I had just replaced the battery a couple of weeks earlier and not all the monitors were ready.. It can be a bit of a pain to get some of the monitors set on one of those if you only do city driving. I had to follow a procedure I found online to get them all to the "ready" state. Car Gauge (android app - I paid for the Pro version) + bluetooth OBD2 dongle is your friend - it has an "OBD2 readiness" section that I ALWAYS consult before heading to the smog place. My LGT seems to get those sensors ready MUCH more quickly - although it could just be part of the tune

I passed at a STAR smog 2 months ago (I also got a STAR notice - wonder if they're hitting all 14-15 year old cars once or something?).. Nothing really different from previous checks, except the guy was horrible at communicating.. His demeanor made it seems like he was going to fail me, and then all of a sudden "ok, you're done"..

My suggestion - buy a used OEM un-catted DP, or buy a spare catted DP and decat it yourself. Next swap, swap in the OEM pipe including heat shields, and leave it that way. Sell the Cobb UP to to recoup some of the cost. Then never swap the UP again. Cobb vs. uncatted OEM is worth what, maybe 5-10hp on a well built setup? Not worth my trouble.

Yeah, that's more or less what I did. Except, instead of the Dork, I had a "brilliant" idea. I had an old cigarette-lighter charger (2.1A) that I'd already soldered up to the lighter in the ashtray 2 or 3 years ago as an experiment.. Since I also did the clock relocation, didn't need that anymore. So I cut the wires and resoldered those instead. And a quick google seems to show that that was my goof - lighters are center-positive, whereas I just brain-dead assumed center-negative, and so I think I mis-wired the actual car charger, and blew something in there.. Doh. I was trying to do too many things, and so that's what I messed up. At least, it protected me.. Why did I try to put the car charger in there? Because I didn't have a female USB plug handy to wire up to plug into the male USB-A plug of the OTG cable.. And I didn't want to directly wire up the Dork to the OTG cable. I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and have to buy a cheap extension cord or female USB-A plug.

So, I tried to do the power supply install today, and.. UGH. Got the "zap" sound.. Looking at WI-175 (see attachment), I tapped pins 8 & 9 for IG and ACC. Then ran each of those into a diode (model mentioned above), anode side, soldered the cathodes together, tapped ground, and soldered in an old 12v car charger I had already re-wired for this purpose from another thing. Started the car and "zap", got one of those big "something blew" zaps. Took it all apart, car still starts, there's still 12v on the ACC circuit.. IGN circuit seems weird. Maybe I blew that fuse? Did I do something wrong? Wrong diode? Or was the charger messed up? Will go check fuses, but.. Something's off.. 40 - Clock System.pdf

Yeah, the concern was more overall "tightness" when in the car. My daughter sprang a "I can't lift my shoe out from under the seat in front of me" thing she'd never mentioned before.. But apparently, she CAN in the LGT. I dunno. We sat in a G80. It has "center console balloonitis" - the tendency to try to make the center console larger and larger. I developed my habits in 80s and 90s manual VWs - not much there except a shifter, and I like to move my right leg/knee over into that zone on log stretches.. Can't do it. With the G80, it's so tight, I get tingling after a while. Plus, the dash is so tall, we felt like little kids.. And it's like another $5-10k on top of a Stinger. I WANT to like the Stinger - just wasn't going to happen..

Now you just need hpfp / lpfp + E85 tune for ~600 hp

Wonder if there are any tunes available for it?

One more question (for now): what's the best way to mount the table to the bezel? I have the JDM non-nav bezel that has a small gap on one side, IIRC. I was thinking of creating some kind of slot that the tablet slides into, and can be lifted out when the bezel is removed? Alternatively, I thought of creating some kind of shallow frame (with cutouts for pins), similar to a rubber case, but made of wood maybe with a small amount of padding, and attaching that to the metal center piece that the cubby slots into? Almost like the suction-cup arm mounts, but a very shallow frame, and then the bezel pops into place in front to hold it in.