hadvw

Yes, new home has been found - mechanic down the street who wanted it as a personal car.. He brought cash, towed it a few days later, haven't heard from him since.. Need to check paperwork eventually :-) Kept a few parts to supplement reduced sale price :-) Here's what's left. I think this is mostly it, except for a few popits, etc. -Free Range Racing hoses (missing one 3 or 4 mm hose I used for the FPR), includes the "updated" kit that re-did some hoses. $175 + ship. -front right headlight. Definitely restoreable. $50 + ship. -Avo Turbo inlet, NIB. $175 + ship.

As I said - waiting for official DMV paperwork, and then I'll be mostly done with it. I will probably have Avo inlet, Avo brackets, Freerange hoses, Nexus stuff, cubbypod and a few other miscellaneous items to sell in a couple of weeks, once everything gets settled. Work is so busy right now..

I think he's wondering about the 2.5i NA.

Tentatively sold to an in-town mechanic. Waiting for paperwork, etc. Will have a few left-over parts to sell eventually.

That's what the paddle shifters / manual mode are for . Stock for stock in sport mode, it's MILES better than the LGT was when new. After HexMods + tuning, the LGT was a bit better, maybe. I don't really miss much about the LGT other than the visibility. One thing I have noticed - the throttle mapping is different than many cars. Lots of cars have that "step on 10% and get 30-40% power" to make it feel quicker (looking at you FCA minivans!), which just leads to wheelspin with a ~300 hp FWD non-LSD car. And then, the remaining power is spread out over the next 90% throttle, not always linearly. I'm always having to hold back on the initial press to avoid wheelspin in the van. The Stinger is the opposite, especially in comfort/eco - it was how they got better mpg / emissions, I believe. You have to hit 75%+ throttle for it to actually respond. Plus, they have an old-school kickdown switch under the pedal. In Sport mode, floor it, and it will pick a good gear and move. Manual mode has even more control. Can you explain what you mean by "bit of a joke"? My family had no real issues with a multi-hour road trip - I'm 6'1", wife is 5'9", kids are ~5'7" and ~5'3". Back seat space seems comparable to Q50 and similar to LGT. It's no Lexus/Maybach, sure.. What model was this? Can't say I've seen or heard about this feature in any way. Was this a car show pre-production model? I do realize the car isn't for everyone - not trying to say it is. It has been a bit of a (re)learning curve after 14.5 years in the LGT. Is it perfect? No, definitely not. There are definitely things I want to fix soon - springs + sways is a common upgrade. Plus, some power things.. But even if I could only ever drive it stock, I'm quite happy - 100% stock it's already as good or better than my constantly-upgraded-over-14-years-LGT in almost every way. YMMV.

Fair enough - I am WAY more dependent on my mirrors and backup camera than in my LGT. It is cool that the mirrors auto-tilt down when backing up. That plus the parking sensors, and I've managed ok so far.

Did you try the Stinger? It was between the Q50 and Stinger for me, and the Q50 sport seats were uncomfortable (too narrow). Really liking the Stinger.

Join date: 1-13-2005 (5 days before buying the car). ~143-144k miles, diff or transmission gave up in june, working on a way to sell everything..

Sale of everything is pending, hopefully this week. Buyer plans to sell a bunch of the parts.

Sounding better. Not trying to scare you, but just wanted you to know that the turbo / oil is the one big issue on these cars. And I guess stock tune as well - I've been tuned so long (10+ years) I never think about that anymore.. So check those banjo filters, and if they're clean, then just keep doing oil changes every 3-4k with synthetic, and you should be good. Oh, and one more thing - these cars, for whatever reason, don't like Mobil I. Good oil, works great for plenty of cars, just not this model. Just about any other synthetic will do.

Head gasket is mostly an issue on the 2.5i (non-turbo) cars. The biggest issue by far on these cars is the turbo and clean oil and oil consumption. At stock power levels, the 5EAT (or is it 5MT?) is probably ok, and shouldn't cause too many problems. And with an '07, at least there's no cat in the up-pipe to degrade and mess up the car, so that's one thing you avoided. Please say it didn't just get a new turbo? That's usually the sign of the oil being cut off, the turbo dying and possibly metal parts all over the insides, meaning new engine in a few months at best. Search for "banjo bolts" on here, check these, invest in upgraded oil lines if you have the time and can find them. And the oil has to be checked every ~1k miles on older cars. Mine was starting to use a quart every 750-1000 miles. Honestly - if your daughter is like most non-car girls I know (like you said - A to B, as long as it works, she's happy), she probably made the wrong choice - the H6 would have been a better choice, even though it may have the headgasket issue. If she ever gets a check engine light and hears weird noises, she needs to pull over ASAP and STOP DRIVING. And if she's lucky, it'll just be the turbo. Search on here for "ynasb" (you need a new short block) and the countless horror stories of "just bought a used LGT / OBXT - 100 miles later, there's smoke coming out of the engine or the turbo is making a horrible noise". I'm not trying to scare you - with any luck, you got a good one that wasn't abused. But, it's happened MORE than you would believe on here. People kill the turbo due to oil starvation, drain the oil, put in a new turbo and sell it immediately, knowing the turbo will last maybe a few hundred miles before the metal parts in the engine get back into the new oil and kill the new turbo. The only solution (if your engine doesn't die in the process) is to get a new engine to get all the metal particles out. It sucks. The only good part is that a brand-new-from-subaru shortblock is around $2k.

One more part I just remembered - Killer Bee oil intake. Obviously not pulling.

That's what this post is for - everything for $3000. Who's up for it? Someone in OR want to go halfsies with Boxkita? There's at least $4-5k of "used pricing" parts in there, even if there is some overlap. If I add up what I paid for these parts.. I don't even want to think about it.. Over $2k in the last 3 years just for the Hexmods F1, RCE Tarmacs and Wilwoods. But I don't have a huge driveway or garage, new car is here, wife is looking for a new (3rd) car so she doesn't have to drive the minivan in the city all the time, etc.. Work is busy, time is money, I don't have a week to pull all the parts, hence the huge discount for taking everything.

I think I've replied to all the PMs.

We could go half/half?

Charged up the battery and started it and let it run a bit.. Also: took a bunch of pictures of parts, etc, and put up a part-out thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ca-bay-area-2005-legacy-gt-many-performance-parts-fixxer-279385.html Anyone in the bay area wants a bunch of performance parts and other parts + running/tuned engine cheap, have a peek. In a week or two, turns into a regular part-out..

I wasn't planning on making a list of "dibs" yet, but I guess you can be first on there.. However, just be aware that if someone comes along and says "I'll take all of it", they'll get first crack at everything, even things with "dibs"..

Last batch.. Sorry, tried to have most of it make sense. Ask if anything is unclear.

And more...

More pics..

3 weeks ago, my LGT started making really bad noises from the drivetrain - I had been running a flat tire without noticing it for 2-3 days, and I think that did it in. Very bad clunking noises, I think either from center or rear diff. With some combination of diff / driveshaft / transmission, could maybe be fixable, but has some other "annoying" issues like the HVAC actuators being noisy, CD player dying, etc. Engine was running strong. Burnt some oil, as is normal, but was pulling quite nicely - has a bnr16g (one of the originals in the vf40 housing, so you can leave it in for SMOG!). I'm swamped at work, and I don't have a ton of time to pull parts, so I'm offering this first as a "buy everything" special for locals - way below the price of buying everything separately. That way, if you want a good deal on performance parts or other stuff, and you have the time, today's your lucky day. I just need to clear up space, etc. If it doesn't sell in a week or two, I'm going to pull the easy parts and sell those separately, and then have a wrecker haul it away. I'm going to list the estimated price for various parts that I would pull off the car to sell with a "quick sale price", just so you see where I am getting my price from - THESE ESTIMATES DO NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING. If I list the price as (-), then I don't plan on pulling the part or not worth selling, so it's a "bonus" part. Whether that means anything is up to you - I just want to list everything that's been done to the car. OK... Just those prices add up to ~$4500, give or take. I'm sure I'm way overestimating my prices. So let's cut 33% off. $3000 OBRO takes everything, you arrange for transportation (car will need to be towed). That's not even counting the engine, etc. Edit: Rotas sold, price can be adjusted some.. (sale of everything currently pending) VIN: 4s3bp676354332564 Car as it sits has the following parts on it: Performance / ECU: bnr16g, 80k miles, never had a problem. In OEM VF40 housing ($300) Infamous Performance and Tuning Oil Line kit. No longer made. ($100) dw650cc sidefeed injectors, may need a cleaning ($150) Walbro pump (-) Tuning Alliance open source tune (several revisions) (-) Grimmspeed TMIC - coated black, everything in great shape except for one hose with some wear from the clamp digging in ($600) STI up ($50) CNT Racing catted downpipe ($200) Hexmods F1 valve body (may or may not pull - $500) Suspension: Cobb sway bars, front and rear, no longer made. Includes full new bracket / bushing set made by a member on here which are bigger than original. Comes with Cobb (Hotchkiss?) reinforcement bracket. Generally in good shape, no picture (on the car). Several end links, some OEM-like, some performance but used. $250 RCE T1 Tarmacs. Only the rears on the car right now, fronts were trying to get a dust cover on them that had worn out. Stripped the top nut a bit on one - KW will rebuild/revalve/whatever. But should also be fine for driving as is. Need to be adjusted/levelled. ($600) OEM wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45/17 - barely run (see other set of tires later - those were what was mostly driven), one or two have a patch due to nails, so not for track, but auto-x or other daily should be great. Probably 7-8/32s tread left. Great tires. ($400) OEM wheel + Pilot A/S 225-45x17 as full-size spare. ($50) Brakes: Wilwood front caliper upgrade. Comes with extra set of brackets. R4-S pads, Wilwood "B" pads, rears are currently R4-S. Includes 3mm spacers for the front to clear OEM wheels. Cryo Centric OEM rotors.Front SS brakes lines ($300) Grimmspeed Master cylinder brace ($50) AVO front grill, cut to fit, not great, but ok. ($100) Digboost20 digital boost gauge, but starting to die - or may be related to CD dying. (-) HID upgrades to headlights (-) All interior lights upgraded to LED (-) Fumoto valve (-) Redline hood struts ($50) ----------------- Parts also included, but not ON the car right now. Exhaust: -OEM UP ($25) -OEM DP, gutted mid ($200) -OEM mid DP WITH cat (just the half with a cat) ($150) OEM TMIC, Half "Bulletproof" mod, half my own mod. A little clunky, but gets the job done - has never had the fingers come loose. No pic. $50. Brakes: -OEM front calipers + 1 or 2 used set of pads + 2 more sets of rotors with left left - one pair slotted, one pair Centric OEM, front OEM lines - $200 NIB Stoptech Rear OEM-size pads. $25 Free Range Racing full silicone hose replacement kit. Used one hose to replace the FPR line. Other than that, full kit + "I goofed" replacement hoses, so some extras, etc. All the documentation is there, etc. $125 (was > $200 new, no longer made). Rear shock mounts + longer screws + spacers to fix "saggy butt" - never put on. ($50) OEM springs + Koni shocks (the front set is on right now) - 70-80k miles. Pre-cut, so you could easily replace with new Konis, no need to cut OEM shocks. Still ok to drive for a while. ($250) Another set of full OEM springs - someone threw these in when I bought his OEM wheels. Unknown mileage. Could be used for Konis. ($100?) OEM sways - free? Rota wheels, 17x8.5, fit fine without spacers. More Pilot Super Sports on them in 225/45-17. Can mix-and-match with the others. One tire totally dead due to driving on it while flat. So 7 Super Sports total. Wheels have curb rash and a bit beat up, but hold air, etc. ==> SOLD! 2 OEM wheels, no tires. Hold air, but aren't in good shape. $25 each. AVO sway bar reinforcement brackets - had a brain cramp, bought when not needed - still new in packaging (no pic). $35 AVO Turbo Inlet - new over $225, still new in box - $125 Non-cubby center console cover for doing Nexus 7 upgrade. Never had time to finish it. $100 Nexus 7 2013 16GB + 12V->5V conversion amp + cables to charge/run + USB hub. $50. Cubbypod Cubby gauge holder "left over" pod. $10 OEM grill + OEM "gutted" grill - $25 each OEM passenger headlight housing. Tried to do the "clearing" myself, didn't like it, bought a new one. Not great, but not horrible. $50. Various oil filters, including 5 OEM "black" filters I just bought off a member here. $50 Various other parts: gas cap (broken strap), OEM headlight housing covers to go back to stock if you remove the HID upgrade, etc..

Sounds like the Edge rental we had - 2.0T, and with even the slightest moisture on the road, I could make it spin all the way through 1st and 2nd..

Well, as reported in the the "what did you do" thread, mine died last week. Had a flat for a couple of days and didn't notice. I've had a bunch of flats lately (always a new screw or nail, not bad patches or anything) and I think that's what did it in. Got home, swapped in the other set of tires, but if anything, it was worse - horrible crunching noises from the drivetrain - either rear diff or center diff, not sure. At almost 144k very hard miles (I drive it like I stole it, bnr16g at 60k miles, Hexmods F1, etc) and 14.5 years old, it's not worth spending $1k to open it up.. So, picked up a '19 Stinger GT1 AWD. Now for the part-out.. Engine still runs fine and pulls hard - burned maybe a quart every 1500-2000 miles at the end? I was filling up 2-3 times between 3.5-4k OCI.

Sounds like my wife - she bristled at the thought of anything with the letters "Cadillac", no matter how much I liked the "V" series: you're not an old geezer yet!

On the "waiting to be fixed" list, you mean?