BarManBean

You are making great progress, keep it up.

Remind me--you are doing all of this because of a misfire and finding a hairline crack on a piston face?

I like the idea of keeping the sensor functional. Maybe instead of welding it back into the UP I'll just relocate it in the engine bay near the turbo to monitor under-hood temps ...assuming the probe is accurate in that low range of temperature.

Might be cool. Keep in mind that it will throw a CEL if it's not seeing appropriate temps for exhaust gasses, so just make sure you turn that off in your tune.

Resistor mod for the EGT

Edit: for this^ I have a handful of EGT sensor connectors that I've clipped off over the years. You can use them to solder in a resistor using the pigtails, heat wrap and make it nice and clean, and they you just plug the new resistor "dongle" into the EGT sensor on the car. Makes it clean and easy.

*edit* Nope, I forgot that I remembered to order a lapping tool.

:lol:

You aren't understanding for some reason.

Using two tools of your choice that comes in a hex shaped variety and also fits the current cam bolts (i recommend to allen wrenches, or one allen wrench plus a breaker bar with a hex bit installed), hold the cams in place. Using an extra set of hands (or bracing the tools so the cams don't spin, REMOVE the existing c-clamp or whatever you have in place. Now the cams are free to spin, EXCEPT that you are holding them in place with hex-shaped tools, right? Now slowly move hex-shaped tool such that one sprocket rotates and removes the load--if you hit resistance of any kind, go back to timing mark and start with other sprocket. After the load is removed from one cam by rotating that sprocket, do the same with the other sprocket.

Done. Now figure out a way to hold your sprockets in place while you loose the cam bolts.

Free way: let 'em snap shut and carry on.

(don't do that if you can help it, but that's exactly what happened when I was working and the consensus is that it's not really an issue)

The bolts are still in there. I have a c-clamp applying pressure to both sides of the cams, between the cams. You can see it in my last pic. I can stop one cam from spinning by using a hex head, but the other one will still be under pressure/tension. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by engage both pulleys.

.

You need two allen keys of the same size, for example. One for each pulley. Then remove the c-clamp. Then slowly release tension on both sprockets by rotating the allen keys individually.

Make sense?

What's the best way to release the cam sprockets so that the cams don't spin super fast?

The bolts are still in there right? Just use a hex socket / allen key, engage both pulleys, remove whatever you have holding them in place, and then slowly rotate one to unloaded position and then the other.

Is there anything that you don't have?

A clutch slave cylinder? I don't have one of those, someone asked me the other day.

Ya'll have recommendations for fast spool turbos that max out around 370HP/TQ? The only time I'd need that much power is in ICSCC Enduros where I'm not only competing against ST cars but GT1 GT2 and SPO-M-U cars as well in my class. If I have to give up 370 Hp to get a fast spool 320 HP that's ok.

My new setup will be a JMP custom 16g, lightly PnP'ed, with all supporting bolt ons. I expect to see 320 no problem, with torque being much higher.

I think if you go with something around there, that you could have some serious spool and a nice power band. I'll post up a dyno sheet if I end up doing a dyno tune.

Can you run e85? If so, the difference between 320 and 370 is probably just a fuel / map change away.

^^Not the worst idea. Or even just say that if upon inspection that it's determined that oiling was what caused failure that the turbo won't be warrantied.

I'd also make the extra parts (OCVs and lines) only a recommendation to prevent / reducing any sort of oiling issue. Making them mandatory for a warranty seems silly if oiling issues will deny warranty anyway (not arguing that you need to cover this, but no sense in someone being forced to by $400 worth of parts).

We are talking about keeping temp constant for measuring tools such as micrometer and bore gage. The more accurate the tool, the more sensitive they are to changes in environment. Nothing to do with hot/cold motor. Everything to do with the precision of the instruments used.

I understand that. What what is the formula to account for measuring differences based on temperature? There would be a different formula for every single part due to mass and material differences.

Sounds a bit ridiculous for a DIY build (impossible). In a temperature / humidity controlled factory that pumps out motors? Sure, make everything the same. But honestly I don't see how you could possibly negate / account for temp / humidity differences in an at-home build.

Unless I'm missing something?

I agree 100% that the biggest factor is the user. There is a learned skill in properly using feeler gauges and a micrometer.

Just seems strange to me. I beat the snot out of mine on the track for 7 seasons at similar power levels with zero issues, (and less "preventative" stuff, i.e.- oil coolers, catch cans, racing sumps, etc...)

All the "preventative" stuff is also contributing to a more complicated system with additional points for potential failure. When everything is working you can have a powerful car that takes abuse like a champ, but if something isn't working quite right...

^^^ When the internals go, they go...regardless of power. 4 hours of beating the stink off of it could be enough to do it in.

This. I'm a 100% armchair quarterback when it comes to racing, but honestly it just comes down to "pay to play." Sorry to hear the motor went, but yeah it's time (or well past time) to purpose build a motor for what you intend to do with it.

Looking forward to following along as you move forward.

Who is tuning the car? Are they providing tunes meant for extended / elevated abuse?

I have some CDI torque wrenches. Same folks that make snap-on I believe. They are nice. I have this one for the little stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2502MRPH-Adjustable-250-Inch-Pounds/dp/B001VXRYG8

And then the 1/2" version that covers 30-250 ft/lbs.

Check jet.com for pricing too. When I ordered the little one recently I think it was cheapest there.

Sigh... Plumbing nearing the end. It seemed I was missing some of the molded hoses until the was box was found while cleaning up... Running out of smaller diameter hose clamps. The cut hoses are going to be trial and error with less of the error side of things.

 

Now I need to find the coil pack connector kit I picked up from Infamous 3+ years ago. It wasn't in the normal subaru hord box. May be stored in the car, have to check there.

 

Will get this done soon enough.

I have installed the freerangeracing kit also, and ended up with a number of EXTRA larger hoses that I have no idea where they go. I have a bunch of vacuum line left also, but that's no biggie--I had some silicone in there already that I didn't bother replacing.

I went with ultra grey when I installed my cam baskets, used "the right stuff" for the valve covers.

The amount of RTV to use on the cam baskets is practically nothing. Be careful there. I think you pretty much have to spread it out, no way you can get a "bead" small enough to work without clogging things up.

Not sure what all the "oiling issue" talk is. There is an issue, it's pretty straight forward--banjo bolt screens get clogged over time with improper maintenance. Remove of the banjo screen(s) and addition of another inline filter should solve the issue.

Also, 1% of VF40 cores were rebuildable? BNR used to buy (or do core rebate, I can't remember) VF40 cores, no? Are you saying that only 1 in a 100 was usable? That sounds ridiculous.

Bryan at BNR has treated me well. I also have run a BNR 16g for several thousand miles with no issues. But the warranty truly seems lacking, especially when people invest good money to follow requirements (oil line kit and OCVs to the tune of ~$400 or so?) and then get denied.

These are still for sale, yeah?

 

Checked out the website and it hasn't been updated in a bit. Just want to make sure there's some in stock before I order one.

Yup, replied to your PM also.

For those that have placed orders most recently, I have seriously sucked at getting things out quickly as of late. I just got my saw back from my dad to get things moving again and should have all orders filled in the next few days.