Strizzy

Yeah, I didn't realize I clicked the wrong one until I looked at my logs. Anyways, here's the results from the dyno today. Temp was around 60*F and 100% humidity and raining like crazy. I did two 4th gear pulls and both runs were identical. http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-tzX8ShJ/0/X3/i-tzX8ShJ-X3.jpg The second plot is when I was stage 2 (same dyno for better comparison) with Invidia catted DP and stock CBE. http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-DR39f9P/0/X3/i-DR39f9P-X3.jpg There is still a bit more left on the table, but tuning at 1:30AM is rough, especially after being awake for the 19 previous hours. Once I go with a hybrid boost control setup, I should be hitting my target boost about 400RPM sooner.

Got some logs for those of you that are interested. I also attached a screen shot of my MAF scaling table. 4th gear.csv 1st thru 3rd pull.csv Transient.csv

I got most of my 100oct tune tonight. Holy shit! It actually scares me a bit. I had to revert back to my original way the EWG/EBCS was hooked up because I couldn't make less than 28.5psi in 4th gear. I want a safe target of 26psi. I'm going to look into a hybrid boost control setup, because with the 2-port EWG setup I did, I was able to hit 28psi by 4k RPM No, that is not a type-o. Boost was just uncontrollable, even at 15% WGDC. There just isn't enough wiggle room with duty cycles to run a boost target I felt safe with that would work with pump93. If I can get that insane spool, this would be, IMO, the best turbo for a DD. Dyno day is this Sunday, so expect numbers shortly after.

If I ever get done... On a race track, of course.

I already knew something was going to stop me from tuning. My car has been fighting me since day one. I'm even betting it's something more serious than spark plugs.

So much airflow that it literally blows out the spark from the plug, not allowing a combustion event. My plugs may be gapped too much. And I think I am running one step colder heat range, which doesn't help with the situation.

Tried tuning for 100oct today, but I seem to be getting spark blowout every time at the same RPM/boost range (5000RPM/27psi). Tomorrow I'm going to try to find time to replace and change the gap of the plugs, then Saturday afternoon I'll try another round of the 100oct tune.

Update: Car is running stronger than ever. I'm glad I stuck with the build and all the bullshit and bad luck that took me for a ride. This car is a monster when I want it to be, and completely civil when cruising around as a DD. Next Saturday I will be getting on a dyno for a local dyno day. This coming Wednesday I will be getting tuned for race gas. It will be a glorious day. Airboy graph said I'm making about 430HP. I'll have a dyno plot soon enough though.

So I've been thinking over the whole E85 thing... I might be able to get by with just a fuel pressure regulator (yes, I'm still running the stock one), rather than a new fuel delivery setup. Or If I want to go faster, I'll do a race gas tune and keep what I have. After driving around for the last day, I don't want to change anything else. It feels absolutely PERFECT where it is for a DD. If I do end up changing fuel pumps and injectors for E85, it won't be until later down the road. This turbo is absolutely incredible for how much it flows.

I'll have a dyno plot sometime in May at a local dyno day.

Road tuning. I'll get some logs tomorrow when my laptop is alive again. I'm pushing about 450g/s of air though. My target is 23psi and I taper to around 22.5 at 7k RPMs.

So guess who is now officially tuned on pump 93 with close to maxed out ID1000's at 23 psi???? THIS GUY!!! Now I have to figure out how I want to go about my fueling for E85. I'm debating on dual in tank pumps or a surge tank. I love this car.

I got the ECU for $125 shipped and barrowed a SSM from a local dealer to reprogram my security ID. And I still have my tags I got with my keys, so that saved me another $150.

My car officially logs!!! I swapped out the ECU.

I was able to somewhat reliably log after I added 5 (yes, 5) ferrite chokes to my USB cable and a 0.1μF (ceramic) capacitor between OBD pin5 and pin7. I went through EVERYTHING and still couldn't come up with a plausible reason why this is happening to me. I tried logging with a Tactrix 1.3 cable, but still have the same issue of RR cutting out. Most people I talked to said they have way more issues with the 2.0 cable than the 1.3, so I figured if I can log with the 1.3, I can deal with switching to the 2.0 for flashing maps. I'm hoping to be able to use the SSM this week to swap ECUs, so I'll update how that goes, as long as work doesn't get in my way. That said, how would I tune for speed density with the stock ECU? How do I add that? And LC and FFS?

Was that why your LV was showing you had a vac leak?

Psssh.. You don't need spark plugs My logging has become less problematic. I can now log 1-3 consecutive pulls before RR starts cutting out. My replacement ECU has been shipped, but I'm not sure if I'll need it anymore. I might just try it for giggles and shits.

Looks like I might start tuning this week...

I already have that part covered I have access to a SSM and transponder codes.

Replied...

Is it possible that a faulty ECU could also cause these issues? I can get another one for cheap, but want to know if replacing the ECU is a viable option.

It absolutely despises me

I tried 6 different OP2, 4 laptops, multiple USB cables, and pretty much anything else you can think of. My current USB cable even has 5 chokes.

I added a 0.1μF capacitor between OBD pin5 and pin7. I can now log my first full after plugging in the Tactrix and starting RR. My second pull cuts out. But this time, my second logs shows timing being pulled. It almost seems as if before FBKC goes back to 0, the logger cuts. Also, on my last log, it shows me as not being 100% on the throttle, but I'm pretty damn sure I didn't let off at all. New logs attached. romraiderlog_20120330_192856.csv romraiderlog_20120330_193036.csv romraiderlog_20120330_195228.csv romraiderlog_20120330_195520.csv

I'm also thinking of using a connecting a small capacitor between Pin7 and Pin5. Pin7 is the SSM signal (K-line), and Pin5 should be the SSM signal ground, as required for OBD. Hopefully this will reduce/remove any unwanted high frequency noise. I just need to figure out what size capacitor to use. It's been a while since my EET classes.