NORULZleggy

Correct

I can tell you right now if you want STI brakes, it is going to cost you. If you do it yourself including buying a decent set of working Brembo's, that the bolts are not stripped, new rotors, brake adapters, parking brake adapters, Break lines for STI swap, and rear 190mm drum kit, I will guess it will be: 1700 (Might be working good, and need rebuilt) - F&R 900 - Rotors/pads Brackets - 500 Total - 3100 -3700 Now I did it the correct way. I saved up for about a year and a half knowing it was not going to be cheap. I am also a part dealer and get my stuff about 45% off. I also did not want to cut corners and wanted to pay my shop to do it. Its is costing me about 2500 or less, that is including 750 of labor, and they refreshed my calipers to make sure they are in good condition. This includes everything, New DBA slotted, Hawk pads, STI conversion steel braided lines, Rear brake show adapters to run STI rotors, ISC suspension 5x100 spacers to clear wheels and so on to bolt the calipers on to the car with ease. My 18x8s will clear them, but my 17x8 inch Enkie's TS-5s might not.

I have never had a problem with the stock LGT projectors. EVER, I so many comments on how my lights look. I run V-LED lights and they look very classy. I really see no need for a retrofit kit.

Lube everything. I have done this to my 2006, and my car is very easy to take things apart.

I think I have this same problem on my 06 LGT, glad I came across this.

I would drop the cash on PS4S or a step down. If inflation has hit you pockets hard, find a set if Ling Lang tires . Had them on my 06 EVO and they put in WORK. Now I say that because of the AWD system. They are a decent tire for the money. they will do what you need.

Black does not mean the oil needs to be changed. Amsoil will turn black and still protect for a long time. My 2013 does this after 5k miles and the engine runs very smooth. Also you need to let the car sit overnight and then check the oil on a flat surface. You not getting a good reading.

should be fine with normal 3k changes but remove them.

yes so many, first does the car have all records and maintenance done. How is the turbo.

Might be a FB20, but it looks like an FB25. If it runs strong, and does not burn oil, buy it. Check it out very well.

Great call. Some wheels, drop it a few inches, sways/endlinks, Nice tire, some subs, Some LEDs and you ready.

They are all correct, please leave the 2.5i alone, it's a great DD gas mileage car. I have had a few and miss not having to worry about them. Turbo cars are a different story, but I love em.

This is good to hear, I did not cut corners and got all the top stuff I could find to make this plug and play for the shop that is going to install. Now my only thing is my wheels, Both Enkie ( 18x8 TS-10, and 17x8 TS-5) I am pretty sure they will fit.

I did mine at 110K lol

I flushed my CVT at 110K miles it was running fine. I am a hardcore Amsoil guy and I sell it a lot. the shop that built my LGT said NO, and did my full flush and retuned all my fluid lol Needless to say I have a smooth running CVT at 147K miles now.

I use 5w-30 and that really helped my car. there might be a faulty oil sensor. I have pushed my CVT HARD, it see tripple digits here and there, but it still runs very smooth. I do plan on keeping the car and putting in a new shortblock.

I agree with you, I do not and have not used what they recommend for these motors. I switched long ago and it seems to have got much better. I do plan on a new short block if it ever gets real bad. I really like the car and it runs very well. I have 149K and I got my trans all flushed out and she really runs great. I know they say it does not need to be done, but thats because most people never keep there cars that long. My shop has seen many of these cars with 250K miles on a well taken care of trans (CVT). I kept my outback to 267K and it ran great. Cheaper than these new pieces of junk

Not all but many do. I have many friends at the dealer, and they showed me that they keep the FB25 block ready. they had 4 new ones because they do them under warranty so much lol.

If you did not know Point37, these cars are know for bad short blocks. that is why they burn oil. The FB25 in the Outback, forester, and Legacy have the issue. I also have a MY13 2.5i that burns oil. I took it to Subaru because of the warranty, and because they do the free test oil consumption test, and my car failed and I have a bad short block. Subaru was going to pay half to replace the motor because I was 1100 miles past the 100k mark, but I wanted the whole thing replace and they would not budge. This came down from SOA. I have only had my oil light come on twice in the 5 years I have owned the car. My car is not as bad. My tuner that build my 06 LGT said to just keep an eye on the oil and drive it. It has been fine, but it does have a bad cat. They are also know for bad cats. You seem to have a bad problem if your burning oil and the oil light has come on so often or you have a bad sensor. I would drain the oil, and add in 5.2 quarts with a fresh filter and see how many miles it takes for the light to come on. Good luck!

Marty at Raxels has treated me very well. They gave me a free pocketknife lol. I will stick with them. Why would you not send the cores back.

Oh no the brackets are for the rear only. I might have written that wrong. I got a full set of black STI calipers for nothing. I want them matching and do not really want to repaint. they are in great conditions. How do you like your swap? I am not looking to track that car, just want it to slow down better. My 04 STI brakes I loved.

Well I was bored and ordered all my parts for my Brembo Swap. I have the Black STI logo calipers. If you want to know what it takes here it is. 2006 LGT Limited 5MT BL/BP Brembo swap: KNS Caliper Bracket V1.1 - Brembo Kit LGT (Purchased) KNS parking Rear Adapter shoes - For Legacy GT to fit 5x100 2004 STI rotor (Purchased) KNS Braided Line STI swap lines (Purchased Last year) Amsoil Fluid Front: 08+ STI front calipers will bolt with bracket (Purchased last year) 04 STI 5x100 Rotor: Part #: dba654S-10 DBA 02-09 Subaru WRX STi 10 Stud Hole Front Slotted Street Series Rotor (Purchased) Pad: hawkHB453B.585 5.0 (Purchased) Rear: 08+ STI front calipers will bolt with adapters (Purchased last year) P#: dba655S-10 DBA 02-09 Subaru WRX / 02-07 STi 10 Stud Hole Rear Slotted Street Series Rotor (Purchased) Part #: sto105.09610 PosiQuiet Subaru Rear Ceramic Brake Pads (Purchased) I been saving since last year so I can pay cash for this all. I just been lazy on getting the parts. the Shop that built my car will be doing it. I just do not have time with little kids, soccer, swimming and so on lol. Can't wait to get them on. I went all out and wanted the right stuff so it would go smooth. I researched for like 7 months also. My car is by no means fast, but when I get going in third gear, the brakes do not like to slow it down.

I would only buy if you have a daily driver. These car can act crazy and you do not want a build car as a daily.

Dang you did what so many do, the dreaded EJ2X swap, always a problem. I have seen the shop that did my car do a JDM EJ207 swap and it was MINT, but it cost and no problem, I thought about that, but naw. Good luck man.

No not at all. the turbo will not work. Needs to be a VF series turbo.