-
Posts
4,166 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Zues Marine
-
-
i see black squares^
-
-
the two under the shifter and the two under the radio bolt up, the three at the very back dont, but the others secure it enough to keep it from moving
-
information in this thread had been merged with the Aftermarket parts guide, post 2
but as for the center console swap.. line up the mounting holes near the shifter and radioo bezel, mark and trim the overlap
-
no airbox, there's a 'ribbed' intake tube intead
-
the best possible intake tube is the OEM subaru ones that are 'ribbed', ill have to find a link but someone went very in depth about the velocity and airflow direction and their effects on different tube styles, OEM ribbed gave the highest performance gains
so really, find that, a MAF adapter and a cone filter and it the same if not better
-
yeah i probably wouldnt run anything that lowers on an OEM strut from these cars, wrx and sti OEM stuff is a different story
-
i liked the H&Rs, they drop it quite a bit though
-
theres plug and play led lights from superbrightled.com that work well
-
best replacement option, as far as aftermarket struts, the gr-2s are most widely used
from personal experience, i thought they were pretty decent, but its a whole different story if you step into sti suspension
just dont get tein springs
-
I have been looking on the forum for somebody who lowered their 97 OB. I was just curious about the body spacers. Is there an issue with lowering because of the spacers? Seems that the axles might hit.Ok, let me start this off by saying this project is not for the wimpy. I have a lift and every tool imaginable at my disposal.
There are a few advantages to doing this to your car.
1. Suspension options
A: BD/BG can use any GT/L or GDB length strut without compromising suspension angles
B: BH/BK can use GT/L or JDM GT-B/B4 suspension without compromising suspension angles.
2. Increased chassis stiffness lower center of gravity and faster suspension response.
I've done this project to my BH and BG out back they are very similar.
The parts that make an Outback an Outback:
Front: Cross member spacers, dropped rear control arm mounts, longer cross-member bolts, longer steering coupler, longer strut bodies.
Center: Longer Pitch stop, Dropped transmission cross members, dropped rear shifter bushing (5mt), lowered drive shaft carrier bearing, heat shield spacers.
Rear: Cross member spacers, front diff mount spacers, longer cross member bolts, dropped front trailing link mounts, dropped sway bar mounts (BG/BD), longer strut housings.
Front process:
Jack the car up and support the front frame rails so you can get to the rear control arm bolts.
Remove the rear mount bolts and remove the front bolts from the control arms. Let the arms dangle. Remove the rear bushing and replace it with a standard unit (RS/WRX/ALK). Repeat on the other side.
Support the front cross-member with a jack at the jack plate (a friend would be helpful here). remove the two 17mm nuts holding the passenger side of the cross-member up. remove the drop bolts from on top of the frame rail. Lower the jack slowly. when there is a gap in between spacer and the cross-member. The spacer is held to the frame rail with a plastic clip (BG/BK) or with bolts (BH/BK). Remove the spacer.
Replace the drop bolts with standard units (RS/WRX), jack the cross-member up and reinstall the two 17mm nuts loosely.
Remove the two steering coupler bolts. Secure the steering wheel in the straight position.
In the BH/BE you can opt to replace the steering rack with a WRX or 04' STi unit (fine splines) and coupler (no rag joint). You will have to collapse the steering column slightly (tap on the end with hammer) and invert the key spline in the steering coupler.
In the BG/BD you can use GC8 racks (coarse spline).
Remove the two passenger side 17mm nuts and let the jack down till you can remove the spacer. The steering wheel coupler will have to be removed to drop this side. Replace the steering coupler with a Legacy L/GT unit. lift the cross member back into position and tighten the four 17mm nuts. reinstall the steering coupler bolts. Reinstall the control arms.
Once you've reinstalled everything underneath you can replace the struts with the replacement of your choice just make sure they GT/L length.
Center Process:
Remove the center heat shield.
Support the transmission with a jack. Remove the transmission cross member. 5mt cars, replace the rear shifter bushing. Replace the transmission cross member with a standard GT/L one.
Remove the heat shield spacers.
Remove the drive shaft and replace with a standard unit. For this to save cost I simply removed the mount bushings and secured the shaft to the floor again. You will get a tad more noise inside but this is how GC8's are.
Rear Process:
Support the front of the diff with a jack. Remove the front diff mount bolts. lower the jack and remove the spacers. Jack up the diff and install GT/L length bolts.
Remove the bolts from the front trailing arm mounts, then remove them from the trailing links. Replace them with L/GT/WRX units. Reinstall the bolts
Disconnect the rear sway bar end links. (BG/BD)
Support the rear of the diff with a jack. Remove the cross member bolts. Lower the jack till you can remove the spacers. Jack the cross member back up to meet the body then install L/GT/WRX/RS length bolts.
Replace the rear struts with the L/GT/GT-B/B4 length struts.
BG/BD owners will have to swap out the rear sway bar mounts for L/GT/RS units. Reinstall the rear sway bar end links.
Common Parts (BH/BK/BD/BG):
Cross member Complete AT 41011AE00A (Auto Trans Cross Member)
Cross member Complete Front 41011AE020 (5mt Cross member Front)
Cross member Complete Rear 41021AC240 (5mt Cross member Rear)
Cushion Rubber-Gear Shift 35036AA010 (Rear Shifter Bushing)
Front cross member drop bolts 20540AA030
Transverse Link Bushing- RH 20201FA050 (Rear Control Arm Bushing)
Transverse Link Bushing- LH 20201FA060 (Rear Control Arm Bushing)
Rod Assembly-Pitching Stop 41040FA000 (Pitch Stop)
BE/BH Specific Parts list: (00' BH/BE GT Part Numbers)
Universal Joint Assembly 34170AE040 (Steering Coupler)
Trailing Arm Bracket- RH 20540AE000 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Trailing Arm Bracket- LH 20540AE010 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Flange Bolt 901000179 (Rear Cross Member Bolt)
BD/BG Specific Parts: (96' BD/BG GT Part Numbers)
Universal Joint Assembly 34160AE010 (Steering Coupler)
Trailing Arm Bracket- RH 20520AA030 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Trailing Arm Bracket- LH 20520AA040 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Flange Bolt 20540FC120 (Rear Cross Member Bolt)
Bracket-Stabilizer- RH 20520AA001 (Sway Bar Mounting Bracket)
Bracket-Stabilizer- LH 20520AA011 (Sway Bar Mounting Bracket)
Still working on some good quality pictures, not the best photo guy
If I missed anything let me know.
-Dylan @ DS1 Motorsports
-
-
i like yer bumper bro
-
i've got a feeling that you arent going to be too happy with the light distribution/pattern when you're done
-
i ran them in my wagon with very minimal sag
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/100_0082.jpg
-
about halfway down this page tells you mostly all differences
-
post 1000! whoo!
-
^im assuming you're running a 4eat, imo, the wear on your diff and trans stuff as well as the loss in mpg isnt really worth what you gain, especially when it doesn't actually get you to true 50/50 anyways,
the way the TCU is set up is to distribute power to each end about 60/40 as soon as it detects tire slip..
if you're looking to make the auto more fun to drive, ground a pin on the tcu to change shift points and make it a sportier drive:
-
yeah, if this thread didnt suck so much ass...
you'd know that up front, you can use any aftermarket strut bar from a 93-01 GC impreza, MAKE SURE that it's one with low-profile brackets, or else your hood wont close
in the back, any 02-04 bar will work, should just be straight across, no bends.. that bolts right up
-
Ya know, I'm pretty disappointed that this is the successor to my aftermarket thread, especially since you could have just thrown up a single link to whiteline and said go from there, since that where half the links are leading to anyways, and you also took off like 60% of what i had on there...including different options for different budgets and brands, including things non-traditional upgrades that are possible..
..all im seeing from this is a bunch of 'will it fit' questions and 'yeah i didn't include that cuz it doesn't bolt up in 20 minutes' shit... instead there's a 'performance stickers' category that not only makes this look like an amateur honda club, but also comprimises the integrity of the whole damn thing...the **** man? imma fix some links in my old thread and help some people out..
-
H&R Springs and KYB-GR2 Struts are an awesome setup!
-
no need, they'll fit
i know of a couple legacy guys running them
-
yeah, you should see the parking lot.. looks like the set of ' The Fast and the Furious'
only with more duct tape, rattle can primer and bondo
-
in my experiences with autozone, its mostly a bunch of dbag, ricey honda kids that talk down and condescend ppl much older and more experienced with things other than bolt on altezza tails.. ive watched this happen in 3 DIFFERENT STORES!
GC8 STi control arms?
in Second Generation Legacy (1994 - 1998)
Posted
swap mounts perhaps?
i painted the caliper bracket red and the caliper black on my wrx brakes, looked aight... think i sold them to David