snow05gtRI

Doesn't the undertray create a vacuum below the car such that air is drawn through the hood scoop and through the IC? May end up drawing air in through your fender vent.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/er-hc-message-206730.html?t=206730&highlight=%22ErHC%22 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/er-hc-code-odometer-180116.html

I thought Er HC is just telling you that you have a code. There's instructions here on how to use the odometer reset button to display your codes on the dash. edit: Maybe I'm recalling when you see ErHC on the dash when the green connectors in the passenger footwell are plugged in for flashing the ECU

Need to do any conversion for the LED bulbs? They have proper beam pattern and not just a blast of all-directional LED light?

I'm guessing Yawgoo is grass?

Been a rough winter here in New England. I've got a trip to Stowe planned for next weekend (8th) and hoping they get a good natural dump or two before then. My preference is to ski (ride) the woods and can't do that with no real base. Praying to Ullr.

I take mine off in the late spring / early summer. It's back on around Columbus day but that's for scene points at a yearly Audi meet I go to (Avantoberfest). I'm lazy so I just leave it on through the winter.

Box looks great!

The Thule boxes aren't cheap, but the feet slide forward and backwards inside of them. I have a Motion XT Alpine I got on sale. Look up the specs on minimum bar spread. It's a box geared toward skiing so it's not tall / won't fit huge luggage, but it's long and kinda sleek. I think it fits up to like 213cm, maybe more. I could slide it forward to avoid the hatch but it sticks out too far over the windshield for my liking and causes some pretty bad drag / loss of MPGs. I can set the open point of my automatic hatch so I slid it to a reasonable place over the body of the car and then just set the hatch to not make contact with it.

I guess, technically, my run isn't completely done. I still own the beast.

I made the mistake of telling them I had a car to drive (not needing a rental) while they were doing the work. They had the car for over 2 months to do this work (none of which is really rocket surgery, but I can't say much because I was paying someone to do it): compression / leakdown test to check condition of my rebuilt engine with 40k miles on it install Cusco F/R lower arm bars/braces install KTA124 rear toe kit install KCA313 roll center correction install some other whiteline bushings alignment replace a head ground strap F/R brakes fix the door handle attempt to fix my A/C (which they replaced the condenser and called it fixed but did not fix it... and they did something weird up front because my A/T fluid temps have been running higher since) replace all the fluids (trans, diffs, oil, coolant, brake, steering) check out the belts replace the passenger side header heat shield give the car a once-over for any rust issues or exhaust leaks Investigate why / fix the GS TMIC splitter was contacting and denting the top row of fins on the TMIC and then if possible, install a WBO2 at the Cobb DP bung and wire it to my unused TGV They agreed to do all the work over email and gave me quotes. I gave them my build sheet and explained the engine was built. I dropped the car off and then was going on vacation for a week. First phone call I get: "your car has rod knock" ... no, it doesn't, it just has forged pistons which slap, I told you this before ... "oh... ok we'll compression test / leak down." they came back to me with doom and gloom saying one cylinder is low compression and are trying HARD to get me to do a complete teardown and rebuild. i bring up how the car barely burns oil and they are giving me some explanation about the compression changing with the stroke of the piston. eventually I say no just do the rest of the work and this is where they start dragging their heels. Took them 2 months to do the basic wrenching (I had provided all parts except some of the fluids) requests and they tried to give it back without looking at the A/C at all and would no longer agree to replacing the handle or doing the WBO2. Reminded them to do the A/C and they say they're done. I ask about the TMIC contact and they're like "oh yeah we did that and I forgot to charge you for it but I'm just going to give you that one on the house" but they never really did it, it's in the same exact position and still making contact. After the first month I started calling them at least once a week since it didn't seem like it should take that long to do this work. They basically stopped working on my car and were doing other jobs instead. I get the car back and it's kind of acting funny. Boost doesn't seem to be controlled properly but it's sporadic (I watch with BtSsm). Two weeks later I get a CEL for the EBCS. I look at it and it looks like someone took a wire cutter to one of the wires and went 95% of the way through it, and then it finally finished separating on its own. Such a clean cut / break in the wire and the rubber looks exactly like when I used to cut wires building circuits. Of course I have no proof of anything. At that point with now having another thing (albeit easy) to fix with the EBCS and then my A/C going bad again and having some interior issues... my run was done.

had this issue with my rear driver's door but could still open from the inside. Had to manually flip the lock, though. Got a replacement unpainted handle. A shop agreed to do the install of it with a bunch of suspension parts. They get it in the shop and do all the other work and then claim they aren't a body shop and won't help me with getting the handle painted because they don't want to be responsible for recommending a shop and were trying to weasel out of installing it. Eventually got them to install it unpainted (it's matte black and my car is black. I wanted a functioning handle and was going to get it painted elsewhere) but it looks like they just used a screwdriver to pop out the old exterior handle because there are screwdriver-shaft sized dents around the handle frame. That shop was one of the last straws with keeping up with the LGT. That was only one of the shitty things they did during that session. Having had some pretty shitty luck, even with shops that had decent reputations in the area, it just sent me off the end of being able to stomach maintaining the monster I had created any longer.

that edition FUCKS

(pure pulling this from my tail pipe) I think those graphs are showing the coilover response (resistance force) to the movement of the piston. The left side being small movements (0.5 inch / sec) versus right side being large movements (7.5 inch / sec). I'm guessing since the trends in the graphs are pretty stable (linear in sections with specific inflection points) that means their response is in good shape. This is a huge guess and I could be completely wrong. At first I thought it was the inverse (how far/fast does the piston move in response to a force) but I decided to go with the above explanation.

yeahhh bag that thing! I'm enjoying my 3P kit on the allroad.

I'm sure we'd all appreciate any testing you can do!

I get people wanting to use youtube "cut open" videos for assessment of filters, but your eyes can't see filtration down to the micron level. One that might look "light" might just be more efficiently packed. Or the "better" one being over packed.

huh... I'll have to start doing this when I start mine every so often.

It's probably really hard to get a game on those courts

How's the condition of the driver's seat?

Want to buy my built up LGT sedan with a 5EAT (also modified)?

Knocking on wood, it's been pretty good to me so far. It's a 2015 I picked up used in Sept 2017 with about 13.5k miles on it. It was a dealer manager's car for the first like 5k (~1 year), and then sold to someone who lived in Long Island and barely put any miles on it (~8.5k in ~2yrs). I just rolled over 37k this weekend. The B8.5 generation (2013 to 2016, but more-so 2014 to 2016) is pretty solid. They had a bunch of issues with the B8 generation (2009 to 2012). So far it seems the B9 is doing well and I think they're doing a facelift B9.5. I've had two recalls. One for an auxiliary heater in the dash (essentially electric space heater in the vent system that helps create heat before the car warms up) and the other for an electronic coolant pump that runs when you shut the car off to ensure the turbo cools properly. Both had warnings of potentially starting a fire in the vehicle . Otherwise just been keeping up on maintenance. And boy is it not cheap at the dealer. I've now found a highly respected, semi-local shop who is about 25% cheaper than the dealer so I'll be using them from here on out. Oil intervals are 10k but I'm swapping to 5k now. It has so far burned around a half of a quart over a 10k OCI, on each of my first two changes. As learned with Subaru, keep it topped off. I've already slapped on mods, but not really power stuff. Wheels, suspension, rear sway, intake (whooshy whirs, no tune required), cat back (subtle grumble), F/R caliper upgrade, and some cosmetic changes (playing around with some vinyl to accent and get rid of chrome). I bought the car Certified Pre-Owned which gives me a warranty until 100k miles or 6 year from original purchase date. I'll hit the 6 years in June 2020 before the 100k miles. At that point I'll just do a Stage 1 OTS tune, probably from APR, and call it a day. The power curve and numbers on Stage 1 are supposedly 240whp and 320wtq, peak TQ at ~2600 RPM, and that's enough to keep me happy. The car is flex fuel and supposedly those go up to 280/360 with E85, which I can find around here. Maybe tune the TCU at some point since shops are working on OTS tunes for that as well. Besides that, the only thing I really have my eyes on for future stuff would be to swap to a set of S4 seats and door cards. Maybe some more cosmetic stuff. The aftermarket is huge and there's constantly used parts available. There's also a big aftermarket for people pulling in parts from Germany / Europe. I just went to an event called Avantoberfest this weekend which celebrates Avants but all cars welcome. It starts on Saturday at Lime Rock Park in CT (we don't get to run the track, just gather there in the morning), and does a scenic cruise to Stratton in VT. Then on Sunday there was a drive up Mt. Equinox in VT (pretty awesome, twisty drive, with nice views at a few points along the way) and then an event BBQ at the organizers' place they rent. It's more of a rally / enthusiast gathering than a show. There are no awards or anything, but they do give people tickets to enter into raffles for free stuff. I won a Thule backpack last year. Look at the #avantoberfest or #avantoberfest2019 hashtags on instagram. My IG handle (public) is @altheaallroad if you use that. It's been fun so far, but I understand the car is still young.

I had rust bubbling at the front of my roof along the top edge of my windshield. They said that meant the windshield must have been replaced before I bought it, because that's usually how that spot happens. I had that spot fixed, though. Never had the wheel well fixed.