iNVAR

By the way, that is NOT to be interpreted as "go ahead and yank out the restrictor pill and do a WOT pull". You should NOT do that without knowing how to mess with your tune, or safely dial in your WGDC and turbo dynamics parameters correctly.

Who tuned it? You should be asking them about this. If you weren't tuned, then there's your problem. You have a 3 port EBCS, you shouldn't be using a restrictor pill at all if it was done correctly. edit: Christ, you're this guy: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/excessive-intake-temps-190748.html?t=190748 You need a new tuner.

It depends on how your advance table is setup. If there's a lot of advance in that area, then a drop in IAM will affect that area more drastically than somewhere else that has less advance. Remember, IAM is a multiplier. Take, for example, your IAM being at 1 and you're comparing a high load/high RPM cell vs a low load/low RPM cell. Your high one has 8 degrees of advance, and your low one has 2 degrees of advance. Your IAM now drops to 0.5 for whatever reason. Your 8 degrees of advance has now dropped to 4 degrees. You've lost 4 full degrees of timing there, whereas your low load one has only lost ONE degree. So... the anwer is, it depends. You have to look at your timing tables. It's conceivably possible that in your load/RPM range, for example, you're knocking and it pulled 1.41 degrees of FLKC. It continued to knock, as did other areas, so your IAM dropped. IAM dropping may only result in a ONE degree drop, which is LESS timing pulled than if IAM didn't drop. Get it?

What you log depends on what you're trying to accomplish. The fewer parameters logged to accomplish what you need, the better. Running with stock injectors, stock turbo, and stock intake and your MAF scaling is correct? You can remove IDC and MAF voltage. Having a problem with your timing table causing knock? You should have FBKC and FLKC in there. Trying to dial in boost and wastegate? You need TD Integral and Proportional and Boost Error. Maybe consider Target Boost and WGDC Max.

Around 12 today in Brooklyn near Manhattan Ave and Conselyea St, saw a BSM 4th gen LGT, 05 or 06... parked on the street.

you are NOT supposed to be reading your rom with the engine running. or doing ANYTHING with ecuflash with the engine running.

This is what someone PMed me a month back when we were troubleshooting getting the cable to work:

Spotted dark blue LGT, slightly debadged (Subaru and Legacy removed) on Southern State by exit 31ish around noon today. I honked on the way passing you.

The real problem with Subaru's HVAC system is that the temperature sensor(s) don't work right...including the light sensor on the top of the dash. Otherwise, it's actually quite intelligent. If you notice, when it's in heating mode, it switches automatically to the foot vents, because heat rises. That's the quickest way to get the car warm. And when it's time for the AC to kick on, it switches to front venting mode. If they just fixed the damn sensors or put more of them around the car, it'd get a more accurate read on the actual "felt" temperature from the driver.

1) Turn on full auto 2) Turn both dials down to 65 3) Press OFF 4) Press the MODE button to change it to the front vents That's as good as it gets. When the car is moving, the air will be only slightly above ambient temperature. When you're sitting still, it'll still get a bit hot until the vents cool off. The intake vents are located under the hood, which is why it gets so damn hot no matter what.

Remember, you need to reset the ECU, because it's already pulling timing there.

Yeah, that doesn't help right now, heh. You need a current log that catches the knock that cause the FLKC. Bear in mind that WOT FLKC takes a long while to bleed off too. It's entirely possible it's a stray knock and it'll bleed itself off.

Hehe sorry, couldn't tell you were joking. I don't put anything past people!

You use a ruler? And a hammer? And pulled the plugs from a lawn motor?? Are you serious??

He's asking about the reservoir, not the mc and booster bolting together.

Not for nothing. You should do some more logs and see what happens.

One knock does not make for a problem that needs to be fixed. If you consistently get knock in the same load and RPM ranges, then you need to address it. In addition, it looks like you hit the throttle, and then let off for a split second, and then went WOT. That can easily induce knock (pumping the throttle).

Yeah, that's the only thing that really stood out...That and the -2.80 but like I said, a little learned knock is what I also saw on my Cobb maps, both stage 1 and 2 when I was running them. SSB, Might want to clean your MAF sensor and see if the trims fix themselves.

Cobb maps are OTS. They're designed for a wide range of vehicles. Not really out of the ordinary for a map to look like that.

It's going to stop whatever the banjo filter stopped, but to a finer degree, and be easily user serviceable. At least that's my take on it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bolt-up-turbocharger-upgrade-119177.html?p=3611756&highlight=micron#post3611756

The LV's pretty important though.

Add in feedback knock correction also.

Pull a learningview.