iNVAR

It seems to me from reading this that cutting less is fine but that cutting more is a big problem. Just look at this picture from the OP: http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6314/img8947s.jpg You can tell that if you cut too much, the bumps won't be able to get into the strut housing... which is what this tmemz guy did. Cutting too little, well, you have some room the play with. See how much yellow is exposed in that picture? You can cut *that* much less and still be okay, as long as the top of the strut housing doesn't hit the lip of the Koni strut body. At least that's my take on it.... And if your cut is crooked, it won't affect a whole lot except the rubber piece won't sit level.

You should be adjusting the caster on an alignment rack. I maxed mine out on the rack, even amount on both sides.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=148781&d=1366152030 Sparco Assetto Gara, 17x7.5 with 215/45 Yokohama S.drive tires.

Spotted tonight, Friday the 13th! Kissena Boulevard & Horace Harding right by Queens College. Black LGT, 05-07, rear fully debadged. I drove right by you and gave it a bit of WOT (sort of in a rush, otherwise, I would've stopped to chat). I think you might've high beamed me in the rearview, you were making a U.

OH is that all I have to do? OK! lol

Damn, didn't even realize those were offered... just bought stock top mounts, and a year ago I got the WL offset LCA bushings for the added caster too. -0.5* camber would be nice though.

Whoever tells people that is completely wrong for the reason you mentioned already: you can destroy your MC. I know this because I destroyed the MC on my old car and had to replace it... which was an even bigger pain because then I had to bench bleed the MC using some custom bent brake lines. Anyway, I was taught that if you use the pump method, you have to crack the bleeder screw SLOWLY and BARELY while the assistant is holding the pedal down and let out a squirt of brake fluid. The trick is to let a squirt out and immediately shut it again. And then tell your assistant to release. The pedal should never be floored. That method worked okay for me but I stopped because 1) if your wrench slips, your pedal gets floored and 2) it requires an assistant. I've since then gone to using a Motive pressure bleeder.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=boost+creep

Oh okay, that's why. You're in 2nd gear and on a base map... makes sense. Thought it was a 3rd gear pull on a final map. I thought maybe it was an old ROM issue but I guess probably not since you're not on 510N.

On another note, I have to ask. Why does your spool/boost suck so much? You're never even close to your target according to your boost error.

What version ECU is yours? 510N or 522N or whatever it is?

This is the AP v2 I used to have and also the one that I used to sporadically lose communications at WOT on. Pictures in the thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75270&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1319104197 I definitely did use to have a problem with my vagcom cable, but it seems to have disappeared on its own. At one point in time, I had both the vagcom cable AND the AP in my possession and they were both exhibiting the problem sporadically.

Ugh, I'm clueless at this point... The worst part is I have no idea why my car doesn't have this problem anymore or else I'd be able to tell you exactly what I did... I can tell you that I'm not longer using the same battery as when I had this problem. But I think I've changed batteries twice now so... It also wasn't a consistent problem when I used to get it. Sometimes it would disconnect at WOT, sometimes I'd luck out and it'd continue to log. It was definitely sporadic....

I hate to say it, but I told you so... there's some sort of anomaly with the electrical system in the car causing this... What kind of battery do you have? Any corrosion on the battery terminals? Check the grounding straps up front under the engine bay also.

It could be that these cheaper cables are more sensitive to electrical issues because I've been using the SAME cable for close to 4 years now and used to have this problem, and then it mysteriously went away. Yes, I know that the alternator is shut off during WOT. I also know that this makes the electrical system more susceptible to gremlins since the alternator also has an integrated voltage regulator which acts as a buffer for electrical anomalies. Maybe I'm not explaining myself clearly enough to you so I'll try again. The 13.92 drop might not be the reason why the cable drops connection. In fact, the voltage being too low is most likely not the issue at all. I'm sure the cable can operate at a lower voltage... What I'm saying is that the 13.92 is a symptom of an underlying problem in the electrical system that causes it to lose connection. I used to have this same problem with an Accessport also and I'm fairly certain a bunch of other people did as well.

Look at the graph. It clearly shows that during WOT, your voltage is lower and immediately preceding the cutoff there are dips down to 13.92. Everything during WOT is lower than after WOT.

Yes, that's my point. That is immediately preceding your cutoff. Can you not see the graphs? Sheesh.

Are you talking about it dipping to 13.92 some other time that's not shown in your log? Because in your log, it's not true. Look at the graphs. It only dips down to 13.92 immediately before cut out.

And here's the entire log you gave me so you see how it behaves when you're not flooring it. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142649&stc=1&d=1361502803

That's not true at all. Graphed over time with the engine speed and voltage. I only graphed a tiny bit of it after logging resumes, to shrink the graph a bit. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142648&stc=1&d=1361502522 You can see voltage dips down for whatever reason. Yes, the voltage should be sufficient enough, but that's not my point. The point I'm trying to make is that there's clearly an electrical anomaly that causes it to have problems.

Interesting. The voltage dips a tiny bit prior to it cutting off...

About 2 hours ago.... Black LGT, 4th gen, Home Depot parking lot in Brooklyn by the BQE.

Darn... Okay. Hmm maybe some cars have bad grounds...? I used to have this problem and it mysteriously went away...

Hmm, can you do me a favor and log battery voltage when you do are having this problem with the cutting out of the logs? I want to test a theory.... thanks.

I'm not talking about the knock. I'm talking about your AF trims drifting positive.