iNVAR

No. That's not how it works. You have a map, it's set, that's how it'll be. Reflashing won't do anything except reset your ECU unnecessarily.

Np. You're only off by 0.5 psi in 3rd gear, that's really nothing, especially with the slightly higher elevation and moderate humidity, and the later start in your pull (2.5K instead of 2K). Looks fine. A CBE leak won't affect your boost. A pre-turbo leak might though. Do another few pulls if you're bored and have time, and also log Intake Temp please.

Try the newer version of LV I linked you in the other thread. Do you have a vagcom or a tactrix cable? Tactrix cable should work with everything. Vagcom is very hit or miss. Seems that the internals of some vagcom cables are different. I have 2 vagcom cables - one works with EVERYTHING flawlessly. I swap cables (no change in my software) and it doesn't work. Others have had the same problems.

Looks fine to me. Typical minor knock from OTS map, not a big deal since it's when you're at the onset of WOT. Start log from 2K next time. What's humidity/temp and elevation like there?

Yeah, I know, you replied to me earlier in this thread. I appreciated the input very much. I know WD40 isn't strictly speaking a lubricant but it does have SOME lubricant in it, like petroleum, which is why it only stopped the squeaking for about 1-2 months before it came back, oops.

Personally, my rear still squeaks... I reused the old rear top hats, but the noise doesn't appear to be coming from that area. I tried putting wire loom all around the entire spring, but it was hard to do it without dismounting the entire assembly. I tried to squeeze it into the tighter coils, but it only helped marginally. It appears to me from bouncing the car and having my buddy listen to it (car was off) that the squeak comes from the lower spring seat, which is metal on metal contact with the spring itself. I bet if you sleeved that bottom part of the spring or oiled only that part the squeeak would disappear. I sprayed WD40 onto the lower part of the spring by the perch (didn't remove the wheel, used a straw) to see if that helped, and it definitely did. Now the squeaking has returned again. I may take the wheel off this time around and properly grease it with some M1 synthetic stuff and see if it helps.

If you're not planning on using the AP in your car to switch maps or look at live data etc. etc. and you only want logging, you should be buying a Tactrix cable and using your laptop to flash if necessary. This has been covered a lot here already. However, if your tuner is only willing to work with the AP, well, that limits you to the AP only. Ask your tuner if OS is even an option first. There are Tactrix cables that can log without a laptop as well. The main attraction of the AP is having the ability to view data while it's hooked up and to be able to make realtime adjustments and map changes. It doesn't sound like you'd be doing that. Also, the logging interval on the AP is lower, and I don't know if that was ever changed by Cobb. Last I noticed the logging interval was between 200-300ms on a limit number of parameters whereas with a Tactrix cable and RR you could do about 100ms with 20+ parameters.

Yes, people really do that. AVO did that. And it pisses me off to no end. The bottom bolt hole for the BPV/BOV goes all the way through into the tank. The top bolt doesn't though.

What did you do your down pipe without doing the up pipe? It's pretty much the same job... The stock bpv is allegedly good until 20# or so.

I've stopped recommending VAGCOM cables to people unless they can somehow guarantee it will work with the newest ECUFlash versions. I bought one about 6 years ago off Ebay and it works for everything, even the newest ECUFlash versions. I bought another one about 2 years ago, as a backup, and it looks exactly the same and was advertised as the same model and all, but it will NOT work with ECUFlash except version 1.29a. It logs and does LV just fine. The internals of the cable are obviously different now, so it's very hit or miss now. For this reason I recommend people fork over the $150-170 for a cable from Tactrix, which can also log for you if you don't want to bring a laptop out.

Also, I feel like hitting you over the head with a giant "Speak English properly" stick...

You can argue all you want, but until you prove it, you're wrong. Dropping an intake into an otherwise stock car will really only accomplish a few things: 1) Throw off the MAF reading, thereby requiring a tune/rescale. 2) Make more noise 3) Empty out your wallet

Read the stickies, do some searching. All of your questions have been answered numerous times before in the past. At least do some research...

Yep, that's what it looked like to me. I mentioned that earlier in this thread, but I just wanted to double check.

I didn't cut right at the silver ring, but from my estimates, the Konis should be able to sit just fine even with the strut bodies cut all the way at the top, as long as the lip on the Koni doesn't hit. I could be wrong about this but from eyeballing it, it looked like it would be fine.

Someone from this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/koni-settings-164168.html Referenced this site: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets.html And under their site, I found this: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets18.html The guy seems to like Konis for the most part. So basically, the knobs do what they're supposed to do, sort of... Doh. But the dampers should be matched, which I don't think anyone here actually did. So I guess it's not that great?

This also makes me wonder if maybe I should've cut the bump stops. I read this entire thread basically and that's why I didn't cut them... I think you were the one talking about how small bump stops actually compress already and cutting is a bad idea....

Pretty sure he knows that. He just means I have to keep tweaking the knob slowly and tediously. I'll keep working at it, but I doubt it'll matter much. I may just have a low tolerance for a bumpy ride. Not a good idea. My pressure is usually at around 35/33 as per factory spec. Sometimes I go as high as 37/35. Anything lower risks rim damage on larger "sharp" potholes. I'm currently at 215/45 on 17x7.5. My next set of tires will likely be 225/45 instead to add a tiny bit more meat. Maybe that will help.

Squeaking getting worse, really pissing me off, going to bring it to my guy next Friday and get to the bottom of this. I bought this wrap, hope it's good enough: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFDNA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Morris Products 22113 Spiral Wrap, Uv Black, 0.30 - 2.36" Bundle Range, 33ft Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific[/ame] Also, ride is rougher than I had expected. Handling is superb, I'm very happy with that. But ride is pretty harsh in NYC. Small bumps (small dips/rises) the car handles like a champ. Small imperfections in the road are barely noticeable. But there seems to be a type of sharp edge bump that is everywhere in NYC that impacts hard. Really hard. I've tried tweaking the adjustment knob in front and rear in both directions and it makes little to no difference in comfort, which appears to confirm this article: http://v70r.com/forums/topic/16154-damper-compression-rebound-tutorial/ Which says that ride comfort is largely a function of compression (bump) and spring stiffness. Being that the knob only adjusts rebound, it's not surprising that it does little to nothing with respect to ride comfort.

Yeah, my rear strut mounts are new oem already. Only thing I didn't replace in the rear were the upper spring perches. If they're made of rubber, I could see them hardening with age and becoming brittle... but I wouldn't think that hardened rubber would squeak, right? Just crack...? Hmm.

Any Subaru dealership, a bunch of vendors here. Personally, I'm going to call up FredBeansParts about them after I try some other things. Really don't wanna pull out the shocks to put them in unless I know that that's what's squeaking.

Thanks!

The rear upper spring perches... are they made of rubber? I think my upper ones felt kind of stiff. Maybe that's the problem. I definitely replaced the strut mounts with new ones. Home Depot wire loom? Hmm This one? http://www.homedepot.com/p/UT-Wire-8-ft-Expandable-Flexi-Cable-Wrap-Black-UTW-FCW8-BK/203377810 Or this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Buchanan-3-8-in-Split-Flexible-Tubing-Connector-772240/100137132 Not sure what the thickness/diameter of the spring coils is. edit: Did some searching, definitely not one of those 2. Can you be more specific with what you guys use, maybe a link? Thanks.

So... I appear to have a squeak. Weather as of late has been in the 50-70F range. Seems to squeak more in the cold as this early morning it was chilly and squeaked like crazy. Seems to be coming from the rear, not the front. In the rear, I replaced the strut mouonts, but I did not replace the spring perch. Also, my Epics came with a length of black sheathing / tubing for part of the spring. I would hate to have to remove the rears to replace the spring perch, but I wonder if that could be it. I'm going to try moving the wrap into the tighter section of the springs to see if that helps. Hope I can do it just by jacking up the car and reaching into the well. Mike, what kind of tubing/wrap do you use to do the whole spring? I wonder if I can wrap it with the whole thing still mounted. I really don't want to remove the whole rear shock.

Did mine yesterday, new OEM tophats all around, reused the rest of the goodies, and let me tell you 3 things: 1) Ride is awesome. No more squat on acceleration (I'm at stage 2) and cornering is much improved. Significantly more controlled, less body roll, etc. I'm also using stock swaybars with stock swaybar bushings, with 83K on them. The rest of my front end bushings are all WL poly. Also have the WL RCK. I have them set to 1.5 turns from full soft, but I may dial it down to 1 turn from full soft instead as larger bumps feel a tiny bit hard. 2) DO NOT CUT TOO MUCH FROM THE STRUT HOUSING. Cut as close to the silver cap thing as possible! Koni's instructions call for our housings to be cut 40 mm down. This is making things kind of close. I highly recommend cutting even less than that to make absolutely certain the strut cartridge bumps will be all the way in the strut housing. 3) At 83K, at least 45K of which were from NYC roads and weather, the front strut mount bearings were TOAST. I mean COMPLETELY toast. The driver side was crunchy and could barely turn and the passenger side was crunchy all around. I'd say that anyone who has anything more than 50-60K miles MUST replace the front strut mounts at the very least. You'd be an idiot not to when pulling all of this stuff out. The rest of the stuff I could reuse.