iNVAR

Did you try and do an "udpate driver" on it? Also Means that LV is communicating fine but your ECU isn't supported. You have the latest version of LV? That one in the link above isn't the latest. check the RR site for a newer beta. Does RR connect now?

Thanks for the CSV. Much easier to see things. A couple things: It's FLKC and it only occurs that one instance. The other times you see FLKC is the same recorded knock event and it's actually slowly unlearning itself... or rather it's learning to add timing back in as you can see by the values of FLKC slowly going to 0 over time. You can also tell because of the Knock Sum count that goes from 0 to 3, and just stays at 3 all the other instances. It also occurs when you're not in load and also at a low RPM. High load + High RPM + Boost = boom. Low load + low RPM + vacuum = less likely to cause damage, and sometimes can just be a nuisance to figure out. Check for loose objects in your engine compartment and keep an eye on that RPM + load + throttle area in future logs to see if it happens again.

1) Your log as a PDF is useless. CSV file please. 2) You have a tuner. You should rely on your tuner to make adjustments for you, not us. You're paying for his service - he should provide it to you. Plus, if we give you advice or input and it's not in agreement with the tuner, it sort of puts everyone in an awkward/weird position. I'm willing to help but everyone does things sort of differently as far as their tuning methodology.

Remove everything INCLUDING that port while your cable is disconnected. Restart. Unzip that file into a folder. Connect the cable. When it asks, tell it to search the location you unzipped it to.

Try this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3809269&postcount=14 You should see a bunch listed under Ports. Don't worry if you're not sure which is the cable and you're worried about deleting some of your ports if you have other devices. It should redetect them for the most part. If you're bored, you may as well go through your device manager and delete any other crap in there that you don't need anymore either. Then reinstall using these drivers: http://www.crimetank.com/misc/CDM20602.zip Use the newest version of ECUFlash, not 1.29a. (that's old).

You don't have full heat. It's just trying to warm your car up to 68 quickly. Once it gets there it'll back off.

Yes, sorry if there was any confusion. Edited my post to make it clear that it was Shamar specifically who did the tune. Sometimes, you really do get what you pay for and for the price, I guess it was just too good to be true.

So yeah, if you have an Shamar tune, I'd keep a close eye on things. I firmly believe if you have a car that has been modified/tuned, it's irresponsible to NOT monitor things periodically. You all owe it to yourselves to educate yourselves.

My tune was completed on 9/30/10 by Shamar (not Infamous Performance and Tuning). Base + 3 revisions, stage 2, AVO TMIC, Invidia catted DP, catless UP, 3" SPT catback (with 3rd muffler welded in.) About a year after that, I noticed several things about the tune after I bothered to educate myself, and with the help of fahr_side who has left our community: 1) Boost wasn't being hit in warmer weather. There was no positive WGDC IAT compensation dialed in. 2) IAM was under 1, due to knocking. Bear in mind, this was my SECOND tune from Infamous, after having gone through 6 previous revisions + base. 3) In several regions, timing had been removing from cells, but not smoothed out. This resulted in a -3 degree drop and then +3 degree increase for no reason in the middle of a WOT pull. 4) Boost targets were dialed in what I'd consider high, with 13.54# by 2400, and 18# by 2600. 5) Partial throttle WGDC and boost targets were nearly completely untouched. 6) Cold boost spike resulted in CEL. The boost cutoff/limit was raised but not proportionally for all atmospheric pressure ranges. So there you have it. #5 I can sort of understand. It's very time consuming. And #4 may just be a matter of tuning preference/style. And #1... some tuners I know don't like dialing that in. It's safer to run with less boost when temperatures are higher, than try to drive the turbo harder. But the rest of the things I listed...

Flushing, Queens - Stopped by Kissena and LIE to get some Halal street meat () and as soon as I pull over, a nice white LGT pulls up right in front of me to get food too! Chatted a bit while we ordered from the guy. Nice to see another LGT in the 5 boroughs. I don't see LGTs here much! Didn't get his LGT user name though, but he says he's posted here before. Shoot me a PM!

I bet you could just do the shaft and it'd be fine

You can do it, but it's annoying to do it. You have to upload the images, then you have to click them each one by one to get the exact location of the image off the LGT server, then copy that link, and manually embed it by tags.... at least that's how I've done it before in the past.

Reporting the post to the mods to move to the How-To section and sticky. Only issue is maybe the OP wants to upload the pictures to the LGT site, just in case Photobucket disappears or something?

Great post. I was working on removing it 2 weeks ago when I had the TMIC off, but when I got to removing to the bottom bolt, I gave up. Very difficult to get a good angle from the top and be able to apply the torque needed to break loose the bolt. Didn't have the time to jack the car up either. Definitely something I'll work on next time around.

What I mean is do you trust the guy's ability to tune the car? What you should do is take guy's map and compare it to a fully stock map to see what changes were made. If it's only WGDC changes it'll probably be okay to use. If you insist on keeping the AP, then you can get access tuner for your PC, load the Cobb map up, and make changes to the same tables as the other guy did, and then proceed to use your own AP map.

Well, if he has a map, I'd have to ask this: 1) Who made the map? 2) Do you trust that person?

Do NOT do a pull to redline in 4th, lol. And if it doesn't have opening angle, position will do.

You're killing me man. You're logging stuff I didn't ask for. Do not log extra crap. You are slowing down the logging and making it a bit more difficult to read. Also get rid of Dynamic Advance (*) and Knock Act Sw. and Man Abs Pressure and Primary Ignition. Does the AP have a throttle opening angle parameter? Log that, NOT throttle position. Do a pull in 3rd and do it to redline. But please do not do half pulls in one continous shot. Your boost readnig is off significantly. You are not even getting 11 PSI. You need to verify all your hardware is correct first. Pull the pill and find out if it's the correct size for your turbo. Hell, you need to figure out if the PO swapped pills, or swapped WG actuators, or whatever. When you buy a modded car you MUST know exactly what is in the car for the exact reasons we are dealing with now. Search the forum regarding the pill. Go to google and type in your search terms and add in site:legacygt.com at the end of the search terms to search only this site.

Your AF trims are still okay, except trim A, but that goes wacky... If you had a vacuum/boost leak, I would expect it to have shown up already with that amount of driving. Remove the AF Learning logging parameters and do some pulls again. Log: RPM Feedback Knock Correction Fine Learning Knock Correction Knock Sum Boost Load MAF g/s Throttle Opening Angle Wastegate Duty A/F Learning 1 Ignition Total Timing Intake Air Temperature

And now how many miles have you driven on it so far since the last reflash/reset? This is important. Do NOT reset. And please continue driving "normally" (don't baby it). 4.2, 0.1, 0.5, and 0 for your ABCD trims are well within range. Generally +/-5% is fine.

No, it's because there's something wrong with your car. Stock boost is 13.5. You're not even hitting that, both in 3rd or 4th gear. Don't reflash/uninstall yet. Everytime you reflash/reset you lose all the learning that the ECU has done. That learning is important to the next part. And uninstalling means you can't use the AP to log at all. Figure out what the problem is. Do a quick 3 second log of the following parameters while your car is parked. AF Learning #1 A AF Learning #1 B AF Learning #1 C AF Learning #1 D Those will tell us what your fuel trims are under various driving conditions. You've only driven it for about 10 miles, which is barely anything, so the fuel trims haven't settled in yet, but the 8-9% in the low/idle trim means it's adding fuel in, which can indicate a vacuum leak. I really need to see the complete picture of your fueling to start troubleshooting. A vacuum/boost leak would also explain the low level of boost, and why your car feels like it has no improvement.

What gears did you go through in that pull? Boost level looks low, only 10-11. Did you put the right pill in when putting the VF46 in? I think you may have a vacuum leak, based on the 8-9% fuel you're adding in during idle. How many miles have been driven since you installed the AP and put the map on?

Everyone else considering buying a VAGCOM cable, please note this thread: legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vag-com-cables-chipsets-ft232rl-ch340-214994p2.html Only certain VAGCOM cables work. FT232BL seems to be a winner. The others either don't work at all, or only work partially.

JMLegacy, check here regarding your logging issue. Try splicing in a capacitor. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cannot-log-wot-pulls-202559.html?p=4561779

Sigh. Here it is again. 05-06 VAGCOM OR Tactrix 07+ Tactrix ONLY HOWEVER, many cables sold/labeled as VAGCOM cables do NOT work properly. It is completely dependent on what the chip is inside the cable. I have TWO cables purchased off EBAY that look nearly identical. They were both sold as VAGCOM cables. The first cable I bought back in 2008 is able to use all versions of RR, ECUFlash and LV without a problem. The second cable I bought around 2011 as a backup is able to log in RR. I have to test with a new version of LV but I'm fairly certain that works too. ECUFlash, however, will NOT work correctly with any version newer than 1.29A which sort of sucks since definitions will be fubared and you have to do your ROM editing in RR only. What does this mean? It means if you buy a Tactrix cable you are guaranteed to have a working cable, whereas if you have a VAGCOM cable, it may or may not work with everything even if you have an 05/06 LGT. It depends on the chip inside the cable.